legit just about to pull a trigger towards my head buying the 3Dservisas gear drives
BN you’re a legend, my 270mm hangers, idler motor mounts, normal motor mounts, and belts are all coming soon. HYPED
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This has probably been asked before but will you be able to sell your precision clamps by themselves? Anyways, I’m going to get your amazing 220mm hangers and Kegel pulleys 
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Yes I can offer the clamps individually 
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This is great thank you! I’ll order everything once the listing is up 
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Kevin I have question. How much do I owe you?
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Any tips for installing the axles? Is it as straight forward as adding red loctite on the axle threads and shaft
Yep. Add red or blue loctite then tighten them as hard as you want. No reason for them to ever have to be removed.
I suppose if you bend them in some freak accident, you cold replace them, I think. When axles bend in crashes, usually they screw up the hole but I’ve done bend tests and been able to remove/swap them. An interesting advantage. For that reason I recommend blue
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So I had a pretty unfortunate issue with one of the axles on my 220mm hangers I just received. After using blue locktite, tightening the axle pretty well, and letting the locktite cure overnight, when I tried to remove a lock nut from this particular axle the axle was unscrewing instead, which was the cause of my frustrations. I got the nut off easy but removing the axle was a huge pain because I ended up using slightly too much locktite and it seeped onto the unthreaded part of the axle and decided to grip and get jammed there but not on the threads. To pull the axle out the rest of the way after unscrewing it fully, I tried turning the axle back and forth with the 4mm hex at the top, using almost as much force as I could put on the hex key, and at the same time pulling on a nut that was threaded on, and I also tried using heat from a heat gun and putting oil. Eventually, I got it out by using a socket between the end of the hanger and a nut on the axle as a spacer and tightening the nut while holding the axle still with the hex key to pull it free. I thought that the axle would be permanently stuck and the hanger would but unusable, but the threads were fine and the only real damage was the hex on the axle being deformed and the hole in the hanger being scratched up a little, which I just sanded smooth. In the end, the hanger is very usable luckily and it still makes a nice pop sound.
As a heads up, I think that it would be a good idea to clean the parts and use not very much locktite, with maybe some oil or anti seize on the smooth portion of the axle, and the axle should be tightened really snug. Also, I think that using shoulder bolts without locktite might just be a better and more fool-proof option.
Anyways, I’m still very happy with these hangers and the rest of my Boardnamics parts and I’ll probably get more stuff in the future. 
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How about a flat spot in the axles, somewhere in the smooth area? That would help tighten the axle.
Glad it got resolved. One thing I am confused about is why you wanted to remove the axle? From what it sounds like, you took the axle nut off and it started backing out the bolt too. Did you notice too late it was unscrewing the axle? I tried to design them to never come out after initial assembly because well, who ever needs to remove an axle?
Not intended to sound rude but it sorta came out that way. Dang it…
Oh another thing is the axles will be upgraded to 17-4PH stainless steel most likely. They cost more but I don’t like how the shoulder bolts rust.
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The 4mm hex key should be enough. The hanger threads are just M6 in aluminum, so anymore torque then that key can provide will likely strip them out.
A flat spot would weaken the axle as well, at a spot where there’s the highest stress. (Where the axle meets the hanger)
The flat should not be at the root of the hanger, but probably near the threads. Then you can also make the M6 longer to prevent it from stripping. But yeah personally I am quite happy with the existing axle design. A 10mm option in the future would be nice.
Curing overnight for loctite usually isn’t enough. Usually 24 hours or more should be used. And red for axels is always a nice security.
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Yea, was just trying to remove the nut and when the axle started coming out, i knew that the locktite job wasn’t reliable and I would have to redo it.
24 hours is the minimum, I’ve ridden on 23h loctite setting and it comes loose but 24+ I’ve had no issues
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Little teaser.
Rode them only for 5 miles so far. No sign of any wear or damage but that is to be expected. Testing continues…
On an unrelated note, the metal on metal doesn’t sound as loud as I thought. It is slightly louder than a belt drive. I don’t expect the hardened steel gears to ever wear down, they are overkill. Really curious if the helical will hold up…
Kinda pissed because my manufacturer really screwed up the prototype parts. The case and hub are totally out of tolerance, so I had to sandpaper them to my spec…
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got diff greases to try?
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Just have white lithium on me
that’s probably too thin, no?