The outside bearing stayed on the axle when I disassembled the motor, and I had tapped it firmly into the cap, seating it way deeper than it had been, apparently.
I had to drill small holes to tap out the bearing from the cap exteriir, and just placed bearing back on the axle, then attached outer cap to wheel, then wheel over stator, and it was 99% better
The bearing has a few clicky’s, so will order replacements.
My 17 year old cousin was over, and I reassembled the diagonal mini, and the midsize, clamped the plastic box to Fiona’s chariot, and we Went out for a cruise, and it was all quiet again.
The noise came back after Fiona’s evening chariot ride, so I disassembled it again, tapped the bearing out of the cap a mm or 3, reassembled it as you stated.
Torqued 6 inside screws, placed the cap, and slowly torqued the 6 cap screws, the helical leverage pushing the bearing into its seat, only as deep as it wanted.
It is now noise free.
Hopefully it stays that way.
Seems the whole noise issue is how
deeply the outer cap bearing gets pushed into the seat in the cap’s receptacle.
I’d messed up by tapping it in deeper, then screwing cap to wheel, then installing wheel over stator, then tightening the inside screws.
I had the other hub motor apart several months ago when it had less than 75 miles on it. It didn’t seem to care about the reverse reassembly order, but I should likely inspect it again, see if sand got inside it too.
Staring at the 10p42as and the beautiful Metroboard Vesc housing/heatsink on the diagonal mini, I decided that the portion next to the flipsky 6.6 v2 could and perhaps should house the BMS.
Even a small dumb bms like daly 20amp common port, would require hacking into the housing to fit properly, and I got a hankering for a smart BMS.
Can’t hack housing with ESC adhered to it with nuclear grade double sided thermaL tape, so used some heat and leverage to remove it.
Hair drier worked, didn’t have to bust out heat gun.
The diagonal drive mini, its tiny 72mm hub motor’s sleeves are starting to show some mileage. I see a few 70 mm replacement sleeves on aliexpress, and ebay but have doubts they will fit these hubs., which look to have the urethane molded around the hub itself.
So now I’m doubting the effort required to de junkify the diagonal mini as previously planned.
My main issue on delving hard into the diagonal mini progress, besides funds, is the thin hub motor urethane slowly disintegrating, with relatively low miles and fed by only 7S to date, and no urethane replacement options.
I like the narrow width trucks on it, but would prefer both hub motors on rear, instead of diagonal.
I’d like to keep the enclosure single stack thickness and tucked for a bit o stealth factor, as technically, it is illegal in this state.
Would like it to be my backup Kayak tow vehicle, and be able to fit in kayak hatch without hanger removal, which basically means no significantly wider trucks, No lengthened wheelbase, as it is a shoehorn fit as is.
If the noise returns, i was thinking of tapping the two small holes Id drilled in order to tap the bearing from the cap, and inserting grub screws to push against outer race…
I’m hoping the order of reassembly makes this unnecessary…
It likely would definitely have been, had I not been an idiot and tried to seat the bearing deeper in the cap the first time i had it apart.
That is the bms I should have ordered. I guess it needs an external BT module plugged into its uart port, where the larger 35$ one i ordered has it built-in?
I like this Kafuter K-705 silicone. It dries so clear, and remains highly flexible.
It’s also pretty thin viscosity, and will self level to a degree, and can be influenced by airflow, to form the skin and slow gravity’s flow, at least in 68f /20c ambient temps.
I wrapped my 10 P42a’s in fishpaper, then used fiahpaper dots to separate them a bit more, clamped them together, then kafutered them, both sides, several days ago.
I should be in garage buikding, but I moved a literal ton of sand and soil today (planting a podocarpus hedge) and the couch is my call.
All my hub motors have 5 pin sensor connectors.
I have 2, silicone wire 6 pin JST pigtails
I was thinking about splicing the 6 pin pigtail into the 5 pin sensor wires, and have two sensor connectors on each motor, and be able to plug my 83mm hubs into Vesc, or back into regular Puaida (or nuclear cockroack lingyi) Esc.
I’m thinking the Puaida ESC needs to go into diagonal mini, once I finish its battery and its enclosure, and the Flipsky 6.6 needs to go into my recent enclosure.
But If I fatfinger and mushbrain the Flipsky into magic smoke, I want to be able to return the Puaida with a minimum amount of hassle.
Is this a bad idea?
I figure I’d heatshrink the connector not in use.
I guess a female 5 pin to male 6 pin adapter is a possibilty, but is more resistance, and another potential failure point, and I’d have to order and wait.
Is there other considerations of this 5 pin to 6pin thing that have overlooked?
5 pin is just hall and no temp sensor, simple plug and play and shouldn’t be a hassle. I just take my 5 pins and put them into a 6 pin connector and skip the temp sensor but i also have them running into a connector so taking my enclosure off is easier as i can brake the male female connection there instead of at the esc. Haven’t had any issues so far but my connector is either mechanically screwed together or taped just to keep it from rattling loose.
Thanks, I hadnt though about swapping wires into different connector shells.
I did once try to swap wires on a JST on a voltmeter, pressing down on the metal tab, without success, but had another 3pin JST that didnt have red and black swapped, and i just slid some yellow heatshrink over the extra black for the Vsense.
The Vesc has MT60 phase connectors on it, the hub motors have MR30, so I was going to make an adapter. The extra length likely a hindrance on the mid-size and diagonal mini, an advantage on the longef Linasquat.
The Linasquat will be getting the vesc, whenever I can afford the cells around to making a battery , and enclosure for it.
Until then it has to share the enclosure and drive truck with the midsize.
I get anxious without at least one functional board, so ease of adaptability of components is desirable, even though it adds complexity and analysis paralysis.
I love it when the paralysis ends with a solid plan, and progress continues.
Unfortunately, usually less than half way into plan completion, a variable pops up which resets the paralysis, with various parts, and brain cells scattered everywhere.
My disintegrating urethane on the diagonal mini, is going to have drink superglue, until a solid, affordable replacement plan develops.
Seriously why are hubs so hard to do? Im liking the loaded unlimited ones i got but never would have paid the full asking price for them… did i just answer my own question lol? If they had sensors they would be perfect.
It seems like even at any one company the hub motor designs change twice for every batch and replacement sleeves are never provided. They are so disposable. I have a great set of 500-700w hubs (cant find good specs) and there is nothing i can do but shoe goo the chunks back on and hope they last a little longer.
That’s right, i was going to say shoe goo works good for me on big chunks so far. I tried to have my brother 3d print some tpu sleeves for replacement but it fell through and the ones he got me instantly shredded apart due to his inexperience working with the material - i think it would work but his setup just couldn’t produce the layer adhesion in tpu
A few standard stator ods and shapes would make replacement sleeves a viable market for a supplier? The loaded sleeves for the unlimited hubs are so much better than any of the other hub motor sleeves ive used, sad they closed up shop, i seriously only found out about them on here when someone posted that they went under lol even if i am a cheapskate
