Modifying prebuilt junk, in stages, to be less junk like.

Isn’t it just the cutest little thing?

10s1P EVE40PL

10S1P EVE 40PL

0.2mm copper under 0.1mm stainless steel, with dual 14awg series connection

The Anderson Powerpole connector is in parallel with an XT30, both fused both through the 15 AMP Dumb Daly BMS

Wish it were made with RS50 or TenPower 50XG cells. Even a small battery is so much work, why not use the best possible cell, especially when only 10 are required?

Nelvick, When are you getting those 50XG’s in stock?

it was about a year ago I finished my second Esk8 battery, a 10s1P P42A, with 0.1mm copper under 0.1mm Nickel plated steel, dual 14awg series, and was kind of blown away at how much more torque there was compared to the relatively high mileage 10S2P of DMEGC-26E.

Unfortunately, that battery lost its life being unintentionally submerged in the bay

I was able to get upto to 5.5 miles of range with that battery if rolling conservatively, and it was getting close to 60C if riding more aggressively for 4.2 to 4.5 miles.

So while I don’t need a ‘70 amp battery’ I want a cool running battery and EVE 40PL with 0.2mm copper should run far cooler than P42A with 0.1mm copper.

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This is the 7s2P enclosure which came with my sub 300$ Junkking kicktail in October 2023.

Its 7S2P double stack battery is made with 2000 mAh cells of an unknown brand and CDR. No doubt junk.

It claims 103.7 watt hours.

The 7S ESC which came in this enclosure had dangerously horrible brakes that threw me a few times, when I was running it on the Diagonal Mini with its 70mm hub motors.

I removed the stock thin aluminum plate ESC heatsink it came with, and installed a larger much thicker one, and then attached the deep finned heatsink to that.

Onto this heatsink I installed a voltage booster rated at 10 amps input current, but that has a 15 amp fuse. I have pushed it as high as 350 watts output, charging my 10S esk8 battery from 7S, but 250 watts is more realistic without a fan blowing over the finned heatsink.

While I made this portable charger functional a few months ago, Before today, I brought it only once with me to portable charge, but basically have not needed the extra range so have not really used it.

I likely did not need it today, but I brought it, so I used it, and explored further afield than ever before from home base.

The Second park we visited, I busted it out, but My esk8 battery only needed 170 watts to reach the constant voltage stage, so charging watts were just tapering right from plug in. I let them taper to 100 and packed it back up. It fits nicely with the wattmeter and connectors inside this little bag which came with a cheap backpack.

I am going to dedicate an inline wattmeter with an XT60 direct to the Charger’s output and a 5.5x2.5 to the Charge port on Esk8 over 12 and 16awg. This wattmeter above is one of my two best, but the far Anderson powerpole is attached to a 5.5x2.1 barrel connector which still fits a 2.5mm pin, but which came with thin 20 awg, maybee even 22 awg from a 7S 40 watt charger.

This wire was getting hot and slowing down the charging potential.

We rolled to a new to us spot, and had this little beach between Million dollar mansions with their own private beaches, all to ourselves.

The road to this spot has a sidewalk but I was getting on the smoother 40 MPH road after a line of cars passed and full throttling upto ~25mph for as long as I could until more traffic approached behind me and I braked and returned to sidewalk and let them pass. Was feeling a bit sketched out going 25mph on an unfamiliar road surface.

Fiona absolutely loves to play ball on the beach, even more so, to swim after it.

She was not acting like a 12 year old, her goofy inner puppy re surfaced and she was all reinvigorated barking at pelicans and prancing around like she did at half her current age.

Great to see!

After she eventually got tired, We walked and rolled to explore a few more miles but did not find another spot to chill out that was nearly as pleasing.

So we rolled back to the same park where we had charged at 170ish initial watts. The speed limit on the narrow road is 40mph and the sidewalk is kind of rough with deep soft sandy sections in the shade so hard to see. There was a lot of traffic, and I was a bit annoyed at how many decided to match my sidewalk speed and start taking video of Fiona in her chariot, while cars behind them got impatient, all too ready to cross the double yellow to pass.

When we got to the park, this time, the Esk8 battery was low enough that it accepted the full 250 watts from the portable charger, until the 7s2P LVD kicked in. It got the 10S Esk8 battery back upto 39.4 volts while we just chilled out and barked at pelicans.

Its only about 2.5 miles home from here, but It was nice to have a lot of battery left, so we took the extra long route, with a lot of full throttling top speed runs, to hit the 4th park of the day, and nearly double that distance.

Not sure of the total mileage on this outing, as the trip odometer resets when the ESC shuts itself off, and I did not keep track, but it is likely our longest journey yet at 13-14 miles, and we returned to 35.9 volts on the remote but which measured 36.26v on the bench via the wattmeter.

We are definitely going to roll to the little beach far more often from here on out, especially on the low wind days with an incoming clean green tide. I could likely make it here and back without the portable charger, But it is nice to have that extra throttle and torque and potential range.

When this enclosure was on the Diagonal Mini, I used to strap a a 57wh 7S1P battery to the deck, plug it into the charge port have ~ 50% more range. So in theory can do the same and boost the 103.4 watt hours to ~160 I have a high rpm 50MM fan that can run on 29.4v safely which I can plug into the charge port of the 7S1P battery and blow over the heatsink, and can likely safely dial the booster upto 350 watts, maybe even higher.

I could make a new 7S2P from Eve 35V and have 176 watt hours inside the enclosure instead of the 103.7wh it has now, But that is not needed at this time. If it really came down to it I have lots of power tool batteries which can power a Voltage booster and charge where ever I go.

I have my Old 10S2P DMEGC-26E that was rated at 187 watt hours when new, I could strap to the deck and plug directly into my parallel ESC feed and not even need to bother with a portable charger. I have not yet needed such range, but I have also felt a bit constrained not really knowing where I should declare a half way point and turn around.

With the 250+ watt portable charging at the half way point, it is nice leaving with full available torque, and more than enough to get home, and not have to baby the throttle.

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This is my portable charger, Not quite finished, but fully functional.

The old 7s2P enclosure which came with my Junkking sub 300$ prebuilt kicktail in October ‘23.

This specific wattmeter unfortunately reads about 0.2 volts high, and about 0.2 amps low, through out the full voltage range and upto 250 watts. I tried to get the wires to exit the XT60 panel mount as closer to 90 degree exit. I crimped 14awg to the 12 AWG and shoehorned that 14 AWG into the 90 degree 5.5x2.5 barrel connector.

This visible finned heatsink is screwed and JB welded to a much thicker plate of aluminum than the one that the enclosure came with.

I trust this clamp on meter as it has closely aligned with many other shunted ammeters in the past.

There is a ‘600 watt’ voltage booster mounted to this aluminum with thermal grease. 600 watts in quotes as it is basically rated for 10 amps input, and has a 15 amp fuse. I have pushed not this specific booster but another of the same model to the point where I blew the fuse, somewhere north of 20 amps input, boosting from 12v nominal. It much prefers to be boosting from 25.2v nominal.

With a big heatsink and some airflow, I will allow upto 15 amps input continuous, but it gets pretty hot. I have had it feed my Esk8 battery 350 watts before but dialed it down to 250 as the heatsink gets really hot, and the 7s2p just sags so hard that the LVD kicks in having delivered far less Wh than it could at 250 watts.

The supposed 103.7wH 7s2p 4.0ah battery this enclosure came with is made from claimed 2000 mah unknown cells. pretty sure it uses 0.1 Nickel plated steel too. It still seems to have a decent amount of the capacity left. It will accept 3.68AH charging from 23.32 volts/ 3.33 volts per cell. I intend to wear it out much more before making a new 176wH 7s2p with EVE 35V, and copper, and a higher quality 7S BMS.

Below I am charging the Mini’s10s1p Eve 40PL with the portable unit.

I also have a 7s1p plugged into the fused charge port of the 7s2p, via a 5.5 x 2.1 plug which came on a 7s 40 watt charger and is only 22 awg . It is currently a significant choke point as the 7s1P delivering less than a third of the total wattage going into the Eve 10s1p. I intend to purge the 22 gauge for at least 18 gauge, so It can better keep up and share more of the load. but that is no priority right now.

I bought a 3 pack of these Bourns potentiometer screwdrivers. The regular jeweler’s screwdriver loves to slide out of the groove, so this is much easier and safer. I will find the appropriate size plugs rather than use blue masking tape.

This unit has not had yet any serious attempts at sealing or reducing the effects of vibration on wires or PCB components done to it, but that is high on the to do list.

As is getting the Mini fully functional.

When it is buttoned up tighter, I guess it could top mount it, and do the ride and charge thing, but right now it is just doing the charge at 250 watts in the park thing. It is good for at least 3 miles of lots of full throttling range, towing Fiona, without the 7s1p in parallel through the charge port, and should be ~4.5 with it.

Riding more sedately from 42 to 30.4v the BAK 45D 10s2P has delivered 13.2 miles of range max, so far, but that last mile is slow and annoying, but better than walking, and using this portable charger in the park, can prevent that annoying soft cut territory.

I think I might dial it back up towards 350 watts if I have a fan blowing over the finned heatsink, and the 7s1p plugged into charge port to help.

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I should have checked the radar before heading out, Southward, away from the line of incoming rain.

I did see the northwest horizon was darker, but figured we could get to the park and back before it arrived.

I was wrong.

I did check the radar at the park and told Fiona to force out the turtle and commanded her return to the chariot and mashed the throttle. We got about 1/2 way before the first drops started hitting and it just got harder and harder. Luckily we were less than a mile from home base.

Regardless, the last 1/4 mile it was really coming down hard, and my rear wheels were sending water splashing into the back of the enclosure, and I was imagining B264 in the form of Peter Griffin trying to slap me upside the head with some Butyl rope.

In the garage I left the board flat all 4 down and un velcro strapped the enclosure and slowly let it drop to floor, and then pulled rear hanger from baseplate, and then removed board from atop enclosure and hangers.

There was no puddle in the concave of the Neoprene full size gasket, just some dampness at the edges, where the blue masking tape held it to the flange.

Remove the tape, lift gasket and it is completely dry Inside.

Yeeehawwww!, and Whew!

Got lucky.

With the deck all damp, and Dirty AF with what must be well over 500 miles of road grime and Sun baked foot cheese, I removed the baseplates and hosed off the brown sugar textured epoxy grip.

It cleans up nicely with just water, but a scrub brush and some dishsoap gets it a little bit better.

Sometime around 2014 I added the White Oak butterflies to this deck. They are about 5/16 inches thick.

When I first made this deck in July 2003 with Finnish made Baltic Birch plywood, I used a Biscuits and some wood glue to attach the 3 Mahogany Stringers. Some of these Joints opened up nearly immediately, and I wound up making a new deck, without stringers, and rode that for a decade before breaking that. When I busted this deck out of storage, a new sheet of 5x5’ Finnish birch plywood was near unobtanium and unaffordable.

I hand razored the outline and chiselled to depth and epoxied in the White oak butterflies across the areas where the mahogany had separated from Baltic birch plywood. This board was always super flexy an got a bit more so, but the butterflies were keeping it together. It got more and more flexy as the analog miles accrued, and I added some Roving for under back foot, and then just a few months ago added a lot more roving/ Fiberglass tow/ Finrope, unidirectional fiberglass to the perimeter and to the deck and hull.

This significantly stiffened up the board but without adding very much weight, and I felt a lot better going faster and hitting bumps.

I noticed the Roving, where it crossed the rearmost butterfly on the deck, had turned white where baltic birch met Oak when under compression.

This does not seem to have effected the strength since the top of the deck is under compression and the underside fiberglass shows no Stress in the same area. I will keep a close Eye on it and add more fiberglass to perimeter and underside if I do notice the flex increase or any other signs of danger.

The Mini is nearing functional status. I just need to make phase and sensor wire extensions drill the hole for charge port, and button it up. Probably take me weeks at this rate. :hourglass_done:

I am so far successfully resisting buying 14 Eve 35V to replace the junk premade 7s2p inside my portable charger, at Black Friday prices. Not sure why range brain is so contagious. I rarely need more and have so many potions to increase as is.

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How long is this bad boy?

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Lemme go measure….

48.5 inches. 123.9cm.

I should go reassemble it for the morning sanity session roll

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:rofl:

Kind of surprised that the Bubinga wedge riser, a very dense hardwood, actually compressed slightly under the front baseplate which is on one layer of innertube rubber.

The New ESC has 260+ miles on it now.

Miles rolled without Fiona in tow…

Less than 5.

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We rolled to the park which has a little fishing dock.

There was a guy with an Ebike eating an apple with whom I exchanged the usual pleasantries, while he was staring intently at the Chariot and the Esk8 within it.

Fiona indicated he was a dog lover, and received a piece of Apple.

He proceeded to ask the most insightful questions about the Esk8 and Fiona’s chariot anyone has ever asked me about either, when I said it was built, not bought.

Usually I get the ‘is than electric?” and I struggle to not be like “No, I just figured out how to always be rolling downhill. and accelerate away, barking with Fiona.”

He asked how often do I go inside the ‘fiberglass undercariage box’ , that you have masking taped the gasket to it and use velcro cinch straps? He asked about the wedge risers and noticed they both angled forwards and knew why, also knew that I built the enclosure for a different board entirely.

Said he had something like 47 registered patents in mechanical engineering.

I Thought Buddy if you think this skateboard is impressive you should see what others have designed and built, that can out accelerate a Dodge Hellcat to 30mph and have 40 miles of range.

My 10 Cell 21700 Makita battery Kit has arrived. I have 10 Bak45D’s I intend to install within it, and they are not too fat of a cell to fit the housing, but maybe a bit long when the fishpaper rings installed.

It came with 0.2 Nickel plated steel busbars though.

I just scanned the busbars, as Nelvick has offered to laser Cut them from copper for me. I don’ t really want the Slits though, Seems like they’d bottleneck the current too much for me, and My welder is more than strong enough for 0.2mm copper without them, and they are not an alignment aid.

I have 4 4.0Ah Makita batteries for the Yard tools, that I think use Samsung 20S cells.

Basically on landscaping day, I need to also employ my 4.0 ah Ridgid battery in an adapter, and always have batteries charging in order to finish in one go. The Leaf blower burns through them pretty quickly, and I can feel the trigger become less and less responsive the whole time, and the battery comes off HOT. I like to place them in front of a Fan in the AC before putting them on the charger.

So going up to 9.0 amp hours of Tabless cells mated with 0.2mm copper should greatly improve airflow and duration and make Landscaping day a bit easier.

I had considered rebuilding an OEM makita battery with Ampace JP30’s, but the original BMS needs to be unlocked through some software, and that is outside my ability.

Also the Makita batteries are still working fine in the lawnmower and string trimmer and hedge clipper.

Need to work on the Mini. I want to see how well the enclosure fits on the MBS deck I have too.

I have some 105mm Sleeves on order. Here’s hoping the Tarriff monster is bypassed.
Rolling with Fiona feels much better with a long wheelbase, So If I need to use it as a backup daily driver, I will swap its powetrain from the mini’s deck to the MBS deck with the velcro cinch straps.

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well, maybe.

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My 103.7wh 7s2P portable charger setup was down at storage voltage, but my 6S1P Samsung 50E was closer to 90% charged, and we were ready to go.

So I took it, and my white ‘600 watt’ voltage booster, to charge my 10s2P BAK45D esk8 battery at 175 watts at our destination.

Neither the Samsung battery, or CCCV booster got too hot at this charge rate. The 6s1p Samsung battery is only rated at 9.8 amps and when I last pushed it that hard, it hit 60C way earlier than expected, so this time I dialed in about 7.5 amps on the input and I don’t think it got more than 45C by the time I disconnected it.

The input wattmeter claimed to have delivered 92.3wh (of 108) and 4.382Ah (of 5.0ah) to the booster, by the time I disconnected it, when esk8 battery was accepting 0.14 amps at 42.08v

Samsung Battery had rebounded to 3.11 volts per cell, 18.66 volts, by the time we returned home.

We left here fully charged, at 42.05 volts, with a lot of full throttling on the way home, appreciative of the torque and 25mph top speed.

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Its always good being able to hit the throttle just as hard on the way home!!!

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Im looking to get the cells replaced in my exway flex battery. Based in melbourne, are tou able to help me out?

Cheers

Benny

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Hey mate, your cheapest bet is probably to just order another battery from exway. Short of that, maybe @Tony_Stark can help you out.

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The forcast was for rain, so I didn’t bother to charge up for the late afternoon roll.

Fiona let me.know when it was time for the afternoon roll, so i checked the radar and no rain in any direction for a hundred miles, but esk8 battery was down below 35v. not really enough cushion to hit the north park

I hooked up my big red booster and dialed it upto 380 watts, and we left 5 minutes later, with my 7s2p portable charger in the chariot.

At the park i pulled out charger and unfortunately, I forgot my trimpot screwdriver and it was only set to 65 watts, so destination charging was slow.

I knew I had enough juice to get home and cut the visit short and full throttled towards home against a stiff headwind, a few mph down, but enough range to hit the closer park.

We hit the 4th park of the day at the end of rattle road, and a rattle had developed.

I benched the board and pulled out some tools, and there’s a jeweler’s screwdriver, so I plugged in the portable charger and dialed it upto 283 watts output..

No hardware was loose, and Fiona was hungry and wanted to go.

Rattle hunt tomorrow.

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Got the mini functional, but it is far from finished.

I started the test roll with the EVE 40PL 10s1p under 39.5v, and got somewhere between 5.51 and 6.49 miles of range out of it mostly doing tight turns and figure 8’s close to homebase, draining it to the hard cutoff at 32v.

The second half of that roll was towing Fiona, as she was not content to just watch.

I don’t think I went above 16mph and averaged far below that.

I am not used to such a short wheelbase, or a kicktail.

It took a long while before I developed any confidence on it.

The last time this board was powered, it had dual diagonal 70mm hub motors and urethane, 7s2p, narrow TKP trucks. Light, Super nimble, but 12mph max.

I doubt I will ever attempt to approach the~28mph top speed of these hub motors on this ESC, and I had a few wheelie scares with the available torque, and such a forced narrow stance, even on speed level 3 of 4, and the brakes with these motors on this ESC, are weak.

I first tried the 105mm meepo donut wheels on the front truck and their new tread was noisy, and I had the trucks pretty tight to prevent wheelbite, and quickly decided to swap to the 80mm urethane instead to relearn the dormant muscle memory.

I need to weigh it.

I dialed it to charge at 1amp, and then took out the Guppy for our late afternoon roll with a much better appreciation of its comfort and stability.

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Well, the Mini is not so light at 17 Lbs/ 7.73 kg.

I did not build it thinking about minimizing weight, but even if I did, I don’t think it could be much lighter.

The Fiberglass enclosure is pretty burly, bigger than it needs to be, and its heatsink is laughably huge. I used 10AWG off the battery, and my Phase wire extension adapters are 14awg.

The Junkking 80mm( now 74mm) hub motors are significantly lighter, and I might actually return them, to use their sleeves up completely, not for their lighter weight. I do not really need the extra power of the Puaida 90mm motors, but they are quieter and ride smoother, and I have backup sleeves and more are still available.

I do have 105mm Puaida Sleeves ordered, which will fit these motors, and which should arrive soon.

Expect the Tarrif monster to kick in, but not to what degree. They were 47$

The late morning roll was our usual 6-7 miles on the half pneumie guppy, and when I returned I busted out the mini for some slow but high amplitude carving out front. It really takes a good while before I feel confident on it, but when I do I can push pretty hard through tight figure 8’s, urethane a hissing.

My quads are now all rubbery feeling as I was getting low, knees bent and compacting into and pushing out of turns and treating it like a workout. I got to be going a lot faster and need a lot more room to get the nearly same workout on the guppy, and would really need to dial in tire PSI to turn as hard.

I did flip the front 80mm wheels around so their significant offset widens the track more in line with the rear truck. Not much different feels though, except when crossing rough spots on an angle.

My loopkey sits high and tight along flange, and is well recessed. This loopkey I messed up potting the bridge in epoxy, and had to dremel out some epoxy from the one barrel contact, scratching its surface. I used it for bench testing and forgot, but it does not seem to generate any heat, but I am hardly pulling much current. The heatsink does not feel hot at all after my legs turn to jello carving out front.

I can swap the mini’s drivetrain to the Guppy in under a minute as they use the same rear baseplate, so its just unstrap velcro and remove hanger and swap.

I want to push this 10S1P EVE 40PL hard, and see how hot it gets. With my old ebay Lingyi, when I finished my P42A 10s1p and used that in place of the overheating DMEGC 26E 10s2P, I was still able to get it to over 55C riding aggressively towing Fiona, down to the soft and hard cutoff.

There is no way I can push it as hard on the Mini.

I am likely not going to work on either board anytime soon, as the weather has been very pleasant, and It is nice to have 2 functioning boards again.

I should see how the Mini fits inside the kayak hatch with these larger trucks.

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Awoke to sore leg muscles from jellifying them, carving up the road on the Mini yesterday.

Feels great.

I cannot get the same workout as easily, mindlessly carving, on the guppy.

Pulling the same G’s on it, requires more speed and area with a lot more consequence for mistakes.

Beach run on the Guppy today, with the sweet goofball, and Portable Charger in her Chariot.

PC started out at 317 watts today, and when we went to leave, it was already at 41.94v accepting just 0.14 amps.

The roll home was far quicker, having become more familiar with road and sidewalks in this area.

At home, immediately swapped guppy for the mini, solo, for a very local 90/80mm urethane carve and hiss session.

The mini felt a lot more familiar, much more quickly, than it did yesterday.

Swapped 80mm urethane from Puaida hanger to Caliber2 hanger, and softened up the roadside bushing to a softer cone instead of barrell. Better, but needs more work to fit the arcs I am carving in my mind.

After a while of mindless carving, Fiona decided she wanted in on the carvejoy, so we took the Mini, to calibrate Speedo against two different distant radar speedo signs, and get a better idea of range and battery/ESC behavior at near the soft / hard cut.

I realized I have become reliant on predictable, smooth, strong brakes, and this 2022 era ESC on these hub motors with 90mm sleeves, has weak ass brakes.

This 2022 ESC also has intermittent issues when returning throttle after coasting. It sometimes acts like minimal extra speed input requires 100% torque, same as if throttle was slammed, even when rolling into throttle as slowly and carefully as possible and just trying to maintain speed.

No big deal on long wheelbase Guppy, but can cause an unintentional wheelie/ Stained underwear episode, on the overpowered micromini kicktail.

I have decided to just purchase another 2024 Puaida ESC, since the brakes are significantly stronger, and I can actually program the top speed and torque levels on the 4 different speed modes.

The Mini is already overpowered, IMO, on 10S and these hub motors, I just want better brakes and much reduced weird throttle behavior after coasting and getting back into it. I got it to 19mph and it just felt irresponsibly fast, as my trucks are so loose.

The 99$ Puaida/Lingyi 2024+ ESC allows for customization of torque and top speed on the 4 different speed settings, and has a much smoother roll into the throttle after freerolling, and way better brakes, and telemetry. I’ve got 370 miles on the first one so far. No cutouts, No issues.

I have been really digging the trip odometer and voltmeter on the guppy, and so My ignorance of just how much better VESC current control is, is something I will remain ignorant of for some time to come.

When Fiona and I returned from our first more distant roll on the 10S Mini, there, on my front door was a package from China. New 105mm hub sleeves cast onto aluminum, instead of the plastic onto which the Meepo 105mm sleeves are.

These have a different profile too, both tread design, and a more donutlike contact patch..

The worn sleeves above, looked just like the wheel on the right below, when they were new, ~450 miles ago.

I was really expecting an Email from USPS or some other package carrier saying I needed to pay an extra fee, before they delivered it.

The Meepo 105mm sleeves use an M5 Panhead screw, but the Puaida sleeves, either 90mm or 105, require an aluminum faceplate and M5 Flat Head Socket Cap Screws.

I have 9, kind of salt stained, but need 10 to use these new sleeves.

Ace Hardware had them in stock.

The Mini was then taken to the beer store.

The Mini in my left hand, felt exactly as heavy as the 18 pack of cans in my right, as I walked to cashier.

I am really digging having the Mini functional.

I want to see if I can dial in its nimble carvy feel with 105mm wheels, or if I need to stick with 90mm hub sleeves and 80mm urethane up front.

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Loose trucks save lives. The RKPs help a lot, too.

Seriously though, I love these shortboards so much. I just have trouble wanting to ride anything else anymore.

This is one of many reasons I love them.

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I really love having the mini completely functional, to do the mindless carve and hiss out front.

I was thinking of taking the Kayak out, but decided the enclosure needed a little bit more buttoning up, Since I had largely left most wiring loose to test ride it and kind of spaced out on finishing it better.

The 144wh Eve 10s1P 40PL has some dense 3M adhesive foam adhered to its bottom, which is in contact with the bottom of enclosure.

I did not remove the adhesive backing for the top side of the battery with the dual 14awg series connections so it is free to slide over the heatshrink.

The battery and BMS is held to enclosure with 6 Velcro cinch straps. 2 full width straps side to side and 4 half width straps front to back, the center two in an X. The battery is held firmly but can still flex with minimal restriction.

Many more 1/2 and 1/3 width velcro cinch straps basically hold everything else in place though there are a few small Zip ties here and there too.

While I have inserts and the hardware for a more permanent attachment, The 3 velcro cinch straps to hold it to the deck are unobtrusive, on the mini, and I like the idea of not adding inserts.

I could add some roving bridges to the perimeter fiberglass and not have the cinch straps visible on the top of the board, and then removing this powertrain and strapping it to another deck becomes super quick and simple.

I ran outta wide tip black sharpie to turn blue masking tape black, but I dont really care how it looks, and I the new 2024 model ESC is supposed to be here in a few days.

The tape is ‘temporary’ and obviously not completely waterproof, but it took a while pressing down on the full size neoprene gasket to squeeze out the extra air.

I am thinking that this enclosure and powered hanger, would fit nicely in my backpack, or the chariot, and allow me to wander 50% farther from home base, not including the potential of my many portable charging solutions.

Am gonna go take advantage of the last of the light to carve and hiss the Mini, even though we just got back from a roll to 3 parks.

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