Modifying prebuilt junk, in stages, to be less junk like.

I used to regularly straighten my rear axles on a couple of the evolves I used to ride. I’m 80kg, and was likely carrying beers, spare belts, charger, lights, and a spare motor. Those were the days, and I don’t miss that part of them.

Despite thousands, or realistically tens of thousands of kilometers most likely, I’ve not broke an axle either. I do still worry about long term durability of these old evolve trucks though. They’re a cheap commodity item, and they’re definitely not designed for the speeds or milage I’ve been getting out of them.

1 Like

Thank you for the input.

I am going to continue using the Vevor truck for now.

Regarding the Rockstar2 hubs, they are slightly smaller than the Vevor hubs, in both diameter and width, and the Vevor hubs are a bit small for the 8x3-4, 2.80/2.50-4, and 3.50/4.10-4 tires that I have had mounted, or are presently mounted on the Vevor rims. I have to carefully center them and inflate to lock them.

If I were to mount the 2.80/2.50-4 kendas on the rockstar2’s, I’d have more fear the tire would come off the rim when hard cornering, and the 200x50mbs tires the board came with, they are nice and light, but I don’t need or want an offroad tread, and I’ve grown to love the Kenda k473 in the ~240 miles I have put on them so far.

They are so smooth and quiet and have good rolling resistance and are super comfortable, and I have not noticed any rapid wear as of yet.

I have not determined if the Vevor or MBS trucks are bent with toe-in, toe-out, positive or negative camber, or both.

The fact that the MBS board I bought has so little wear, the MBS tires still have the ‘flashing’, on the center strip, and both hangers seem to be bent the same exact amount, makes me wonder if the process of casting the aluminum around the 12mm Axle, actually distorts the steel hanger, kind of like how on a katana the two different steel alloys used on edge and backbone cause it to bend upwards, during the quench.

The aluminum hanger casting might distort the steel axle similarly as it cools.

Perhaps these hangers are not bent from use, but distorted during the manufacturing process.

I guess I would need to see if a brand new truck is the same. The used MBS ATS12 hangers are in such good visual condition, the tires have so little wear, it is hard for me to believe the hangers are bent from usage, and also bent equally. I also cant see my usage of the Vevor truck having bent it, seemingly in the same way and degree as the ATS12’s.

Perhaps I am just grasping at straws.

At maximum lean, I can just barely get some pneumatic wheelbite, and the MBS hanger’s 12mm exposed axles do require a spacer for the rockstar rims to fit. So the center of the tires is a bit wider track than the Vevor, with the spacers on the inside.

I’d actually like a bit more lean on the front truck, for the slow speed turn radius factor, and would like to try the slightly wider MBS hanger, with the Kendas

Which means putting 12mm ID bearings in the Vevor rims, and I really feel better with a bearing spacer even on a non driven wheel, and I dont expect the extra spacer I have from the other MBS truck is simply going to be the right width, but perhaps it is.

1 Like

I’m not sure if you’ve seen this thread but it may contain some of the information you seek

2 Likes

Crossed the bridge to the key for the first time.

We’ve kayaked under it, but never rolled over it before.

Got to make every day with this sweet goofball count.

5 Likes

My DIY Soldering fume Copper welding flux smoke extractor is not pretty, but quite effective.

This is a Delta 92mmx36mm ‘server fan’ is rated at 7500 RPM fan, at 12vdc.

Very high CFM(175), and static pressure rating.

It is OK with upto~15v, but will smoke itself in the 15.5v+ range. I have prevented this possibility and can safely feed it upto 31ish volts.

This cardboard box is from a 1 liter insulated water bottle. it happened to nearly perfectly fit the 92Mm fan like it was meant to be there all along.

I first intended to use the fan as a pusher, to suck stray rising fumes inside then filter them, but it worked far better as a puller, Sucking the fumes and smoke at the rectangular filter.

I judged this by the fan noise, and the perceived air flow when positioned in both orientations, and then when watching the solder smoke rise towards it.

The battery feeding this gilter, in the photo, is just a 3S1P 2000mah 10 amp 18650 that I repurposed from a 36$ free shipping 7s1P Parts only esk8 I bought, in late 2023. My first ever spot welded pack.

I found a roll of high quality duct tape on the sidewalk of the bridge the other day, and used it to reinforce/ seal the cardboard box, then cut the hole for the HEPA filter, and taped that to the box, Velcro cinch strapped the fan to it, and Yeehaw.

Almost Elegant in its simplicity and function.

I use a modified voltage bucker as a the fan’s speed controller.

Easily Finger twist the desired fan speed/ noise/ amp draw / airflow.

This has proven very reliable, I have a few fans running for several years now, continuously by one of these. There are some tricks to achieving this longevity, that I can share.

This specific fan I have velcro attached to one side and then more onto a 18V powertool battery and can use it to effectively blow sawdust on the floor, from Waist level, out of the garage, or place it under my T shirt and impersonate the Michelin man, to cool off, or Aim at Fiona’s belly.

It can be repurposed for those tasks as easily as removing the velcro cinch strap.

The rectangular HEPA filter cartridge is held to Cardboard body mostly with the tape, and the activated Charcoal filter, 3 layers of it, is held to the unit with Velcro cinch straps, and the one binder clip.

At full speed it is insanely loud and powerful, but at less than half speed easily sucks in any rising smoke when positioned directly above the workpiece.

At low speed, it is whisper quiet and placing my hand in front of the filter, I can still feel air still getting sucked past.

Light and portable, I can easily reposition it.

I have a bunch more charcoal filter I can cut to size and easily replace when contaminated, and 3 more unused HEPA cartridges too.

Now there are no more good excuses to not to Solder and Spot weld at my interior workspace.

I’d wanted to extract all undesirable fumes and pump them to the attic or outside the window, but this works well and should be lung safe(r), as long as the filter is not clogged, and the activated charcoal pre filter is relatively fresh.

I have a different Filter using a Shop-Vac cylindrical HEPA filter, but the unfocused radial suction made it far less effective at capturing smoke and fumes, and it was far clunkier to position, and could be partially clogged from previous use too, as the lesser surface area of the new rectangular HEPA filter cartridge seems to flow way more air.

2 Likes

Someone has to ask, so I’ll just get it out of the way.

How do you know this?

5 Likes

I get my Jollies by turning Potentiometers and watching Wattmeters.

I have them everywhere.

Fans too.

Everywhere.

I have 10 running within 7 feet of my Keyboard as I type.

One of them is a 24v fan on a buck boost that handles 30V.

It is a problem.

I know the fan is good to 15v and little more as I have smoked more than one when using an 18v nominal power tool battery instead of a 12vdc nominal source to power them, and the potentiometer connection failed, sending full battery voltage to the fan. The power tool battery was in the 15.4v range at the time.

These fans reach a point where turning up the voltage higher, does not make them spin noticeably faster, but their amp draw increases significantly, and just beyond that, magic smoke.

Some 12vdc fans are good with 17v, with some 14.2v is pushing it, and 14.4v smokes them.

Had to determine safe lead acid charging voltages for items attached to said battery.

15.5v is upper range for most stuff rated at 12vdc in my experience

4 Likes

score!

1 Like

It could be argued that no such thing exists. To me personally, “duct” when preceding “tape” is generally a synonym for “shitty”.

Obviously it’s good for some things, like patching leaks in ductwork, but for most other purposes there is almost always a better product for your purpose.

2 Likes

Just had this great idea for resleeving my hub motors. :slight_smile:

1 Like

You must not be old enough to have been a fan of the original Macguyver, to speak in such an irreverent tone :wink:

Next you’ll be talking smack about WD-40 and baling wire too. :rofl:

All kidding aside, the Bridge find duct tape I used is T-Rex, that performs pretty well in Project farm’s testing.

3 Likes

Duct tape FTW

5 Likes

I know this might sound strange with only a 324wh 10s2p BAK45D, but I rarely use its full capacity, cruising my regular areas. The 105mm sleeves on meepo 540watt hub motors did not seem to affect my range much at all, compared to the 90mm sleeves and are way more comfortable.

The Kenda K473 are at 25psi and my freeroll is excellent.

In flat Florida, the biggest hill near me, is a bridge, and i had no idea how climbing one while towing Fiona would affect the battery, and how much I can explore the other side and still make it back home.

Just exploring proof of concept here.

With my Old DMEGC 10s2p velcroed inside the mini’s top mounted enclosure, at slightly higher voltage than the BAK 45d 10s2p, I parallelled them through charge port with wattmmeter inline.

Went for a quick solo jaunt with several full throttle to near top speed accelerations.

I tend to move my feet around on the deck a lot, and the top mount enclosure was not a huge encumbrance.

Maximum amps that the wattmeter registered was 3.90.

I know charge port can handle 9 continuous.i

The hot running DMEGC pack was good for about 6.5 miles of range towing Fiona, with junkking 83mm hub motors and 8x3” turf tires at 8psi when it got shelved.

I think this range extender setup can help Fiona and I explore new grounds.

Perhaps cross over to Key on south bridge leave via north bridge.

I also have several portable charging method options with charge rates up 250 watts. and 36, 72, 104, and 222 watt hour batteries to power them.
Befire the roll, the dmegc was feeding BAK 0.4 amps. After, it was 0.7.

4 Likes

Parallel packs are the way!!! Get that range!

1 Like

I’ve been meaning on building one myself too, ever since I filled a backpack of batteries and screwed copper plates to the soles of my shoes one night.

It’s hard getting things done though when there are too many things that need done.

1 Like

For my range extender amperage test, I used the Anderson Powerpole on my DMEGC 10s2p pack, to the wattmeter to a 16awg leading to a 5.5x 2.5mm 90 degree DIY barrel plug that I usually charge through, and which has proven reliable at the sub 150 watt rates that I usually charge at, and has seen as high as 9 amps, and did not feel beyond warm to the touch.

The test successful, I made a dedicated XT90 to 5.5x2.5 using 14 awg and same DIY 90 degree plug.

I bench tested this, and found it flaky intermittent. The interior + barrel was not centered, so the pin made great contact inserted one way but rotate it 90 degrees or 180, and it opened the circuit.

14AWG into this is a real honeymoon fit but it did close, and perhaps the heat required is responsible fort the inner + barrel being off center, or perhaps a manufacturing error.

Either way this connector is obviously not ideal for a high vibration environment, and it would be far better to use an XT90 panel mount direct parallel connection to the ESC, but that requires I disassemble the entire enclosure to safely cut the hole and splice the ESC main feed, and I am not doing that anytime soon as every wire, every connector inside is ziptied firmly in place to the interior roving bridges, and it would mean my sanity rolling device is non Operational for as long as it takes me.

2 Likes

I cannot stand rattles, as I am always wondering if one of them is a streetface in waiting.

I bring the tools with me and will stop and check the hardware, and at most I can get a small turn on the baseplate nuts which has little to No effect..

I found that my Bubinga wedge risers were the cause of this same rattle previously, and made the neoprene gaskets for both sides of wedge riser, and after about 120 miles the rattle came back. it looked like the base plate had simply worn out or completely flattened the neoprene. I had some fat tire bike inner tube for other reasons and then used that to make gaskets for both sides of the Bubinga risers, and got another 200 miles, and the rattle has now come back again.

It really sounds more like metal on plastic than metal on Wood or wood on wood, and I do not think any sink plate or ugly topside washer is the resolution. The screws heads are not pulling into the deck. The Birch plywood has an epoxy column with a hole drilled in the center.

The oversize wedge risers just open up when the deck flexes under my weight and then I guess it just destroys the gasket, and the rattle returns.

new gaskets wvery 200 miles is not the answer and thicker gaskets might just extend that duration. I could cut off the excess bubinga material outside the baseplate footprint, but I expended a fair amount of extra effort to ‘spread the load’ to more of the deck.

It is so nice with new gaskets those first few miles on the roughest surfaces and it is nice and quiet, and depressing when it returns.

Part of the issue is the fiberglass roving I added to the roadside of the deck still has the pressure points where riser touches them. I tried to flatten them with more thickened epoxy and it came out like crap and I was so sick of using the midsize deck I was like F it and just assembled the rolling guppy again.

2 Likes

i suspect you are right on this one. loose baseplates is not the good way to have loose trucks. :smiley:

interesting. i would expect neoprene to deteriorate faster then the hardwood.

1 Like

The hardwood seems fine. Bubinga is something like 40% more dense and heavy than Red oak.

The neoprene did not visibly wear through but was crushed paper thin.

I had meant to seal the Bubinga in epoxy top and bottom, and still could, but that would inhibit the evening’s sanity roll, and likely has nothing to do with the rattle. The Bubinga is just very deep dark red and purdy when sealed with epoxy.

I have harder rubber baseplate risers, but I need the dewedge in the rear or it is way too twitchy at speed. I was just hoping the innertube rubber was going to last but I guess it is abrading and getting crushed with my weight and vibration and the board flexing.