mini HULK - mini remote ‘mod’

HULKY BOI REMOTE

Background: Thought about how easy it would be to cram my one a123 cell into my poor- non consenting mini controller.
The picture on the top is a mock-up, and had no real connections as of this morning.
I post this here to show the final result, some recommendations, and to comply with the requests I received :laughing:

Let’s be honest, you are probably going to have these parts👇 in one of the many esk8 drawers you have

Parts needed:

-Battery of your choice
-latching switch
-charge port
-thin gauge wire
(And ya remote, duh)
That’s it!

No bms, no resistor, any of that.

Due to lifepo4s low voltage nature, we don’t need a resistor. It rarely will be charged and we aren’t keeping several sets of cells in check… so a balance board is a little overboard.
Use all that real estate for more JUICE.

Recommendations:

-Avoid using the hard plastic wire.
You want flexible wire will all the connections you are going to soldering up in there

-keep all the electronics, along with the trigger section and control board on one side of the remote. This will save you so much headache trying to bridge connections from both sides.

-keep the upgraded switch on the main remote body. Don’t put it where I did.

-and re-solder the connections from the potentiometer to the pads. When disassembling, these can easily be pulled or twisted from the pcb so it’s best to redo them and be confident that it don’t do any wonky stuff on ya.




There are a few simple steps.

1) use a some cutting tool to rip out the battery box and trim cutout to size

2) remove ‘wheel’ plastic nob and potentiometer bracket from the remote, this area is where you will wire in your charge port and switch.

3) sand down the remaining plastic part that would restrict the motion of the plastic wheel you removed. This should leave a nicely sized hole that is perfect for this style charge port

4) make sure your battery fits well in the remote with both sides closed, and solder some wires to the cell once you confirmed a nice fit

5) next, use these long wires from the battery to connect
POSITIVE: (charge port and pcb)
NEGATIVE: (charge port and first input of latching switch.)

6) wire the latching switch output to the pcb (make sure its in the off position)

And TADA, you have yourself a reliable remote that you will have to charge yearly :partying_face:
Can charge it when it reaches its birthday.

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The lifepo4 stays consistent for a while at 3.3v over its discharge, so you won’t have those micro cutouts at low voltage like you get with regular Duracell batts.

The ergo with the larger handle is actually surprisingly comfy btw.
Highly suggest anyone try it :call_me_hand:

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for this may I recommend a a C&K T103MHZBE toggle switch as it’s on-off-on. Wire both ends together.

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My Mini modded with a 14650 cell, maybe 800mAh if I recall, I’ve charged it maybe 3 times in over 3 years of very frequent use. That’s not LiFePO4 though. I feel like LiFePO4 might be better for this.

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I can work on a 3d printed case that would skip all the plastic modding…

I don’t really know a lot about custom remotes I’ll need to research more.

Have no idea what parts are possible to change besides the battery and switch.

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A 3dprinted case would be awesome!
A nice nylon or similar strength print would be perfect.

I’ve thought of trying to get quotes for a CNC version of the chubby remote, but it’s close to 150$ish

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Now I’m having second thoughts. I think the sudden drop-off at end of charge is worse. I’d say use a 4.2V chemistry.

This gives me bad memories of the Energizer “Ultimate Lithium” non-rechargeable cells that may last a very long time, but there is absolutely no warning when they die, not even a second. Just dead. No matter how fast you’re going or where you are.

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So the best lazy solution might be just rechargeable AA Ni-MH cells with a waterproof connector to charge without removal?

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Should work fine.
Not too sure about waterproofing since you will still have the large hole for the trigger :man_shrugging:

The best lazy solution is a 14500 size li-ion cell that fits in a AA holder.

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Yes, I would probably go with a liion chem as well.

I have a spare 30q, and could have put that in,and avoided the trimming.

I just really wanted to laugh at the fact that I got a 26650 in there :laughing:

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If only I could figure out how to pack a high capacity 18650 in a Trampa wand :thinking:

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