Funny how we could have one of those exact batteries from that vid.
This is the only spot it was easy to pry under, also the weakest so idk why I tried. With the amount of glue it clearly could not work.
The person in the video linked in the first post was able to get it open but I think they were fairly destructive.
here is the TEC
To open, leave it on your heater and forget about it. Then start on a corner with something small then move to two flatheads.
Perhaps Yageo’s PU series of metal element current sense resistors. Other companies make them though. Might be the 5W ones, good temp coefficient, good pulse handling, some automotive qualified.
Alright mr. Smarty farts
Now riddle me how to pop these connectors apart, although I would rather take both PCB out I feel like there are a few hiding screw.
These connectors are absolutely connected. They have become one together
Actually the bottom PCB is gonna be attached to the copper bars
Also any clue what VESC firmware would be best to run on it? Probably the latest
Those might be press fit into the holes? A focused blast from a heat gun could expand and/or soften the hole enough. Or is it possibly soldered in on the bottom of the PCB?
Sorry, no idea about what VESC SW to use.
Vesc is a joke because it just kinda has a really advanced looking power stage and 6 shunts in a row like a dual vesc 6 ESC
Can I have that as a title? 
LOL…whoosh…Mach 10 right over my head. 
Of course @longhairedboy title em up
Haven’t got this angle yet:
Crimped together bus bar elements or soldered? Hard to tell.
I was only looking at the standoffs before.
Laser welded perhaps?
Yea, Dremel sounds like the best idea.
No hints from the small teardown photos?
Was about to finally go watch again after I had tried my best. Little bit of confidence in yourself goes a long way. Usually not the best advice with batteries but there you go
