nah not gonna be using it, but I do have an idea in the back of my head for a seat heater/cooler for the bike, already installing a heat pad under the seat for the winter
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Trying to figure out how to use this battery outside the metal enclosure for reduced size and weight.
Need a waterproof box that isn’t too big
So glad to have found this thread!! I bought 6 of these and after taking them apart realized there was A LOT inside! Thanks for the help realizing these had TEC! I was pumping 12v into them not sure why it was getting so cold! Haha.
Has anyone figure out the DC to DC conversion yet? My build requires some 12v power and this would be dope.
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ayooo I was planning on bumping this thread as I had just got my second one today!
nah the DC to DC is going to require some kind of constant signaling from the computer it was hooked up to.
I have some ideas for the box they are in however, I just need to crack this one open successfully this time (other one I snapped the tabs under the bolts off trying to pry on them)
@Passedyouby did you manage to get the box on top open? I was thinking of trying to heat it up with a hair dryer before prying
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The Dc/DC converter box? Naw, I noticed they aren’t torx bits, but instead some sort of odd bit. Figured there was plenty more to figure out stripping all 6 of these things for now and would get into that down the road! Haha
The builds are looking sick!
Agreed they will.prob require some sort of constant feedback. But was hoping to trick it. Found a service kit (automotive repair) from china for 300$, but isn’t worth it for that! Hoping to get creative with an arduino.
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Which tabs dis you snap?
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went to grab you a pic but my phone was dead! charged up now I’ll grab it.
automotive service repair kit? how would it connect to and talk to the battery? I highly doubt what you found would be able to work with this but would love a link.
oh shit look at this @Scepterr
Funny how we could have one of those exact batteries from that vid.
it looks huge until a big orange robot is holding it
oh, these must be an older? model because look at the liquid cooling ports come out the side instead.
my guess would be just that one part (the water block) was changed and the rest seems identical.
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Got distracted cleaning a bit
This is the only spot it was easy to pry under, also the weakest so idk why I tried. With the amount of glue it clearly could not work.
The person in the video linked in the first post was able to get it open but I think they were fairly destructive.
here is the TEC
To open, leave it on your heater and forget about it. Then start on a corner with something small then move to two flatheads.
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Perhaps Yageo’s PU series of metal element current sense resistors. Other companies make them though. Might be the 5W ones, good temp coefficient, good pulse handling, some automotive qualified.
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Alright mr. Smarty farts
Now riddle me how to pop these connectors apart, although I would rather take both PCB out I feel like there are a few hiding screw.
These connectors are absolutely connected. They have become one together
Actually the bottom PCB is gonna be attached to the copper bars
Also any clue what VESC firmware would be best to run on it? Probably the latest
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Those might be press fit into the holes? A focused blast from a heat gun could expand and/or soften the hole enough. Or is it possibly soldered in on the bottom of the PCB?
Sorry, no idea about what VESC SW to use.
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