Please tell me you’ll be at carve with this board. I’m very interested to know how this thing rides. Is it going to have VESC based ESC or Mamba XLX (SRB style)?
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Unfortunately I’m up in Canada in eastern Ontario so no I won’t be there. I did just fire this thing up last night. It has a Solo actually. This was just with a test battery as the real battery is not done yet.
This one is actually not intended to be a raceboard but is more like a (very zippy) urban carver.
I am however working on a 4 x 7490 with 2 x dual Solos fast board that I’m hoping will be running next week…
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jesus, four 7490’s and solo’s? That thing is gonna take off if you’re maxing out the solo’s LOL.
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More like instant four wheel burnout lol
And the battery for it is gonna have to produce a lot of amps for those 74xx
Derailing a bit here but just in case anyone is interested in replicating the setup with the 56123s, there are a few issues. The motor mount plate for these motors is a special plate from @Ean.esk8 that fits the old 4GS 5.0. I was originally going to use the 3.45 to keep it all looking very tight but it turned out the plate wouldn’t fit the 3.45. Ethan is now producing an inrunner plate for the new 4th gen 4GS but it can only mount the motors with two bolts (instead of four).
There are not a lot of trucks that will fit all this stuff. In theory the RTKPs are wide enough but there is interference with the baseplate where the pivot cup is. The Matrix IIIs with the extended axles work out very well.
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Hey @MBS - Thanks for finally making 10mm axles available, well, sort of , as I’ve just checked and they seem to be on backorder here in Europe (Well, the UK) so hopefully, they must be flying off the shelves elsewhere - which must be a good sign eh
Couple of questions for ya tho regarding this
Can you please as an option allow the 10mm axles to come in both 50 and 70mm lengths as the 12’s do.
As you said that you would consider selling the III’s without axles installed - how is that going ? What’s the outcome ?
Yep, I would like 420’s with 10mm axles 70mm long please
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It looks like in the next week or so the supplier will have 10mm axles 50mm long.
Purely speculation but any deviation from this size would be at least be 6 months or more away.
If you really wanted some you could probably get some made by a machine shop.
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Request noted @Snowhiter, but we’ll probably wait to gauge demand a bit more before doing anything new for the 10mm axles. As @BigBen said, your best bet might be a local machine shop.
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@MBS would you be able to provide the dimensions for the DW iii deck below? The DW iii looks rad, and it would be helpful to know the standing platform width total width.
Anyone have a use for an .STL of the axles?
Wanted to use one as a comparison point for a new project, and didn’t feel like that didn’t justify buying one, so I modeled it up instead.
MBS Matrix 3 Axle v1.stl (493.7 KB)
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Glad you like the look of the deck. The length from the start of one tip bend to the other, which could be thought of as the standing platform width is 691mm. The distance between the outermost binding holes is 660mm.
Hope that helps.
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Hey Joel, question for ya.
Do you happen to have some schematics of the new alu rockstar 2 hubs you can share?
I came across an issue when installing the hub adapter of my geardrives because the face of the bearing seat is higher than the side where the screws go through the hub. Thus allowing the adapter plate to be crooked if one screw is tighter than the other
That way the hub adapter plate can be redesigned and machined again.
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Why not just use small spacers between the two?
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That’s what i am currently doing. I drilled out locknuts and put them into the slots, then added the adapter plate. Works but i want a proper fix. Locknuts were the only spacer i had with the proper height
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i think i have some lasercut shims meant to go between halves of the hub to widen them that could work if you want to give that a shot
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you mean to place them on the outside between hub rear and gear drive plate?
I don’t see why they couldn’t be repurposed for this reason.
The RS II Pro alum hubs are side-set hub. The bearing face is flush with the actual rim. The surface surrounding the nut sockets (just inside the rim) sits 1.5mm below that. If you can remove 2mm worth of material from your adapter in the area of the bearing hole it it’d allow it to sit evenly on the surface adjacent to the nut sockets. If that’s not possible, and you need to start again I suggest making the outside diameter of your adapter slightly larger (95-100mm) so it rests on the actual rim. Hope this drawing helps explain what I’m trying to say…
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So much respect to you guys for being willing to publish schematics and be open about the design of your products.
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