I need to ponder that some more.
I have some at home even.
The MBS bushings have been great and minor adjustments make a big difference in feel.
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If you wanna feel locked in above 25, go for green // white lacroix bushings. Very stable, but still carves decent too.
If you wanna go 25 and have plenty of carve, go for red // yellow lacroix bushings.
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@MBS, anyone else come to you having truck mount bolts shear off with these?
I just tried to ride out of the woods when two snapped and then other two failed on the way. (Presumably started to wiggle a lot as the widened bolt holes would demonstrate. The last one tried to hang on but bent. Whole thing cracked the deck at the bolt holes. (Colt 90)
I was riding a gravel fs road and mtb trail with some rocks and roots. No hard falls or crashes, no jumps, only thing remotely ‘hard’ was a side slip to slow on a steep slope.
Back truck was mounted on rubber pad and bolts that came with. My front truck is petg wedged with stainless bolts and rubber pad that came with. It held up fine.
Edit: second to last bolt failed when starting from. A stop on smooth dirt slight incline. Last one let go when the other one did and the truck rolled under the board.
I’m going to try to drill the broken bolts out of the hanger.
Anything obvious or recommendations? I’d like to avoid this in the future with these trucks.
Stainless steel bolts are generally not recommended for mounting trucks as not as strong as hardened steel.
Edit: pointed out it wasnt the stainless that snapped 
He said the stainless ones are still fine. But i agree, stainless sucks.
Can you show more of what risers you have in there? Whats the thickness of the riser and thickness of rubber pad if there is one.
If there is any movement between the baseplate and the deck over time it will fatigue the bolts
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And just a note to those designing matrix 3 mounts. I just measured a production set and both hangars measured about 22.40mm except for where the threaded holes are in the side, which bulge out to about 22.7mm so you’ll want to allow at least 22.8mm ideally 22.9-23.0mm for clearance to fit over the hangar.
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The missing paint was from my old ats.12 trucks
Righto. Can you check the front truck (or remount the rear) with the board upside down to see if you can see any movement between the baseplate and the deck by grabbing the ends of the hangars and twisting side to side?
I had to custom make a thin rubber pad for the hypertrucks because they had a lot of movement no matter how tight I made them, so needed the rubber to create more friction against the deck and it worked. I wonder if those new MBS risers are too hard perhaps
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Good call. No doubt the back will due to the widened holes I now have.
I suspect ill find the same on the front now if I remove them.
Just tried it and theres a wiggle in it.
That does not sound promising.
It is a thick block of rubber. I’ve had others from push boards that are thin like a gasket. To just plastic blocks.
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Ah, my bad. Misread.
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They seem to be the same material as the old ones
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Once you solve that wiggle I doubt you’ll snap any more bolts, provided you keep an eye on it.
This is why I don’t like embedded nuts. You can’t tighten the deck bolts nearly as much as you can by tightening nuts like on a normal truck. I’d almost consider drilling them out and adding nylock nuts.
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What’s that white thing between your baseplate and deck?
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Just punched out the old ones. They’re not a full nut and it leaves a nice wide hole from the sleeve.
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Thats the wedge I printed for the front. Only had it on the front.
Man, so sorry to hear about this. At this point I don’t have an answer. I’ll investigate and get back to you.
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