Maytech 6396 motor

I think all of their motors until the most recent 6374 have just been resold designs from different manufacturers. So different models have been hit or miss.

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what esc is it and how much would it cost after discount?

Itā€™s all over. On FS for $325 (but as low as $235 in bulk), on maker for $275, on taobao for $225-250.

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I personally need 2 of them, so we could go for it.

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The 6396 sealed MT motors get extremely hot also the pair I got didnā€™t have nice silicone coated copper phase wires, they just kept the winding extra long and put bullet connectors on them. Also the sensor cables are way too long

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Pics of this??? i must see

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Iā€™m confused a bit by this? So you have bare copper wires popping out the cans with bullet connectors on them? That sounds fucked. What we missing?

How long are these sensor cables, what makes them too long?

Iā€™m with Fosterqc, gotta see dem pics bb!

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This is unacceptable.

Itā€™d be different if it was no problem to just solder wires on those, but those are notoriously difficult / near-impossible to reterminate and solder to successfully

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Indeed! That was also the same on 6880 motors. With aspirine you can burn off a little bit from the motor winding wires insulation.

But it start to looks that maytech becomes a crappy company. That donā€™t take any responsibility for their stuff. I think it is time to move to other brands.

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I feel good options are limited though, what would companies would you suggest? :thinking:

In EU - APS - I know they do not have the best reputation, but a great customer service. If shit goes wrong they will send you replacement.
It can take a while, but still better than just take the loss.
Battle harden the motor bell should be done as well for sure, but I would honestly do that on maytech motors too (as minimum the newer ones).

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Maybe those will be the next motors I buy. Regarding the battle hardening, I still need to take the time to harden my maytechs, definitely on my list, untill now they have had no problem yet.

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The reason we solder connectors directly to lead-out copper wires for 6880 and 6396 motors is that these two motors have build-in big bearings and the hole size for output cables was limited because of big bearing. Thereā€™s on space for thicker silicone wires.
And soldering connectors on lead-out copper wires also has advantages: less resistance, not easy to loose.
And if you cut the cables and want to change connectors yourself for 6880 and 6396 motors, hereā€™re solutions to remove the coating on copper wires:
1ļ¼‰the easiest way is to grind each wire with sandpaper.
2ļ¼‰or use special paint remover;
3ļ¼‰or With sufficient heat from a decent soldering iron and lots of solder should be able to melt the enamel off. you will see some black impurity flowing on the solder blob. Please clean black impurity before solder new connectors.

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The sensor cables are about 2 times longer than motor cables. Because some customers put motors and ESCs far. And the sensor cables need to connect on ESC PCB board ( which needs sensor cable length = motor cable length + ESC cable length). (Some customers may not need that long, please just bend it some :wink:)

6396 is in stock now :wave:. Before order, you can send messages or email to us to check stocks and shipping time

Just received a pair of 6384v2 130kv (red anodizing version), bigger air vents which will need some 3D printed covers with mesh to stop ingress.

8mm keyed shaft & shortish silicone phase wired and a looong sensor cable, no idea on the gutsā€¦

Have to travel for a couple of days but will do a show and tell soon.

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Not fan of that 10 to 8mm step down motor shaft, but there is always something :sweat_smile:

Works just fine :joy:

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The hole size is huge. So huge that I can see the copper windings through it.

Also what are you going to do with the motors that have broken bolts on it?

And what about the overheating problems on those motors? Drop the amps down to 20A like you suggested?

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Those motors were as hot as my 5045 racerstars when we were riding :rofl:

image

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