Voltage drop on one battery could cause issues. I have a DC to DC constant current voltage booster for this kind of stuff
They will discharge evenly, because as soon as one pack is a bit above the other in voltage, it would charge that pack until they are balanced again. Basically the same thing that happens in p-groups, but on the scale of a whole pack.
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Damn guys two opposite answers, what would I believe??? 
I think @Fosterqc is talking about an external second battery to charge / use alongside your main battery, where since it is not permanently connected, you could end up with different voltages, which would be problematic. In your case, you want to add it permanently to your existing setup, so there shouldn’t be a problem if you do it when both are fully charged (or just at the same voltage when you connect them).
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OK then
Anyway it looks like it’s not easy to find a 12s1p
Thanks again everyone who helped
Well since you can use any cells, you could just make one. Shame there aren’t any 1s1p NESE modules to make it easy for you 
@Agniusm
Edit: actually, it would make a ton of sense to have a NESE module where the cells are all in a row, connected in series, and you have a ton of external small connectors for the balance wires. Building large packs could be a hassle, but if there was a single piece 10s3p, or 10s4p, 10sWhatever-p module, it would be very easy 
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I don’t really have much room left, I don’t think nese modules would fit
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would that be an issue when usuing
to charge the internal battery?
you aren’t clear on how this is actually bad
well bad in the way that yes, you’d have to use the voltage booster you have 
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Are you in the US? I can build you a pack in any odd shape you need.
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My friend with an EUC makes parallel packs for his Gotway Monster and doesn’t use a booster for some of them
Connecting them at the same voltage is very key.
Nope EU unfortunately 
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Been riding again today and it’s crazy
Last time: 20 km battery dead (yes, fully charged!)
This time : 24 km battery at 25% (remote showing one bar of 4) 
What changed, would you ask???
New wheels (I quit the rubber ones for harder but same diameter), hotter outside temperature (+10°C)
But still it’s a frakin mystery…!!!
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same route/elevation/wind/ride style?
Yep, slower ride 
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Riding slower is usually more efficient
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Yes sure but not 25% slower otherwise I wouldn’t have asked
due to wind drag being non-linear, a 10% slower ride can save 25% batteries. (very realistic in esk8 speeds/ your scenario)
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I think it’s basically a combination of this, plus less grippy wheels, plus battery reaching maximum capacity (was only 5-6 full cycle)
Anyway, It’s great news, I was happy like a 5 years old child at chistmas 
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