You just have big hands Al haha, but has anyone needed to charge at that kind of amps yet?!
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Where did you tuck the blue tooth dongle
The JBD one is integrated into the PCB so what you see is just that square thingy, no extra thing sticking out. There’s an antenna i guess but i taped it to the side of the pack.
This one will be charging at 20a, and i was gonna run it discharge as well, but I think @Pecos has convinced me otherwise as apparently they need active cooling to run at their upper limits
That BMS is great for the super small form factor but watch out for its high idle drain current. The same BMS killed a small 12s2p P42A pack from me in like 3 months… 
I think the bluetooth module never goes into sleep mode. It’s always blinking, even when there hasn’t been anything connected to it for a while.
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An attempt on amateur 3d modelling.
I figured out a way to have the power button and charge port on a riser.
Might recess the charge port more
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Did some changes, the charge port is now recessed
Also drilled the lid and added inserts on the deck. The core is a soft wood so i used an undersized drill for the insert, and 24 hour epoxy.
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Baseplate situation.
Final insulations and packing everything in.
Forgot about the BT module and puck receiver, luckily was able to fit them in
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Artwork
Ty i do my best
Cool unintentional feature. The DV4s light shows through the lid. So on acceleration and braking the lights will react with it, and also prompt if a fault is thrown. Neat.
How it looks before covering it up. I’m gonna do some tests before putting silicone around the lid.
I did get an overcurrent fault however.
My settings are as follows at the start.
Motor Max : 80A
Motor Brake : -80A
Battery Max : 30A
Regen : 15A
Absolute max current : 100A
Afterwards i adjusted to these
Motor Max : 70A
Motor Brake : -70A
Battery Max : 30A
Regen : 15A
Absolute max current : 150A
One odd thing, it doesn’t allow me to set the absolute max current higher than 150A.
Anyone familiar with the DV4s? What should i set the absolute max current to, and if more than 150, how can i set it without VESC tool prompting me that I cant. I am using 6.05 FW
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150 is plenty. I’ve always had mine set to that. Something in this system is noisy, hence the very high current but low filtered current. Slow ABS should fix this, but that’s a bandaid for what appears to be a problematic setup.
How did you trigger the faults? Riding?
Accelerating and braking on the workbench.
I’m hoping to set the numbers to get decent acceleration and braking without triggering faults, since it’s a hub motor build after all, my concern is that the braking might be weak-ish. I’ll bolt it up tomorrow and do a test ride in the open car park tomorrow.
Oh bruh if you’re holding the throttle pinned and seeing over current faults that’s normal. Don’t do that 
Go ride it
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I see
I always ‘check’ my boards after set up by accelerating and braking on bench, and all my boards built previously never threw faults before so this puzzled me, good to know it’s normal.
If the acceleration and braking feels soft on my test ride tomorrow, i’ll likely bump up the motor max and brake to 80 and see how it goes. Thanks!
I’d still recommend turning slow abs on. You wouldn’t have gotten these faults with that enabled. It uses the filtered current to trigger faults instead of raw current.
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Got it, i’ll turn slow ABS on.
What are those rear wheels?
Please, show your Power Button wiring, 3pin or 4pin? A have 4pin and thinking how to do correctly.
Dyed grooved Cags? maybe @Linny lathed them?