Thanks, yeah fuck… dont like it… 
I’ve noticed this on my solos before like Evan, probably not an issue
Never really paid attention on my DV6 cuz I usually start riding right after I plug in
Can you go mixed use? I feel like im maxing out the DV6 at the rear on the 4wd, be nice if i could have a d100 at the rear and a DV6 at the front with less load… the setup has been flawless since day dot so i dont want to fuck with it if it carries a lot of risk, but its probably worth a little risk to get the performance increases.
Correct, currently using dv6 pro at the rear and dv6 at front
As far as I’m aware you can have a D100 running with a DV6. Just make sure FW versions match. 5.3 to 5.3FW for example
I had a D75 and D100s running together
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Hi, I just got my dv6s in yesterday. I went through inital testing just fine, i setup the motors etc and did detection. Once I went to invert the motors after finishing putting the tires on, the can side no longer works properly. The motor sometimes gives a small jolt, but then its just dead. I did several firmware reinstalls, and with that the motor does work again, but only for a moment, and not under too much power or it kills itself again. Anyone have any idea whats happening? The motor on the broken side also comes up as sensorless when the issue happens and says “hall sensor” before it fails, so I know its not my plugs. — — —
This honestly has me super frustrated, ive waited weeks for this part just for it to fail right before I get to use it lol
Look at your motor inductance and amperage on that side. Check the phase cables from ESC to Motor.
Im not great at this but my 2 cents is Some thing looks off on your top motor results 7.84 A and sensorless vs the motor below being 70.08 A and having hall sensors. Also other readings are very different maybe try swapping the motors over to see if its the motor or the vesc. Good luck
lol 3 months later
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lol 3 years later
Hei guys!
Not 100% sure this is the right place to ask but I’ll try. I’m running a DV6 with a 12S2P A123 pack (5Ah) and I’d like to tweak some settings.
I’d like to understand how the “motor current max brake” and “battery current max regen” settings work.
The max regen set to -15A, means it will actually push 15A back to the battery on hard braking? If yes, I should decrease this.
If on the other hand, I’d like it to brake harder, can I increase the max brake current? If yes, by how much? Will this stress the DV6 or the motors more?
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You might get more responses in the Beginner Question Thread but I don’t think this is the “wrong” place to put this
This thread does a really good job explaining the difference.
The key part is to understand is the relationship between watts, volts and amps
When put into a motor, volts turn into rpm, amps turn into torque and watts are the culmination of both.
An esk8 motor rarely needs to spin at full rpm meaning there’s excess voltage that can be converted to current by the ESC.
At 50% of your boards top speed you’ll only need 50% of your boards battery voltage, meaning you can draw 10a at 50v from the battery and push 20a at 25v to your motors.
Max Regen at -15a will indeed put 15a to your battery, this number is also per motor, meaning with 2 motors you’ll put 30a into your battery.
This is not the same as charging at 30a though, this braking current is made up of spikes of current rather than a consistent 30a. I don’t have any info on pulsed charge limits on A123 cells though.
As long as your motors aren’t overheating you can increase “motor current max brake” If I recall correctly the DV6 can do about 80a/side
Putting more power through anything will indeed stress it more, your DV6 though is rated for quite a bit more than you’re using it for, I wouldn’t worry about raising them unless your motors start to overheat.
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