I appreciate the offer! I’m finishing up my board’s enclosure design and printing it, this esc will be in the very frontmost segment. I only have two pieces left to do but I need to fix the rear one before I print again.
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Given the history, I’d test that VESC asap and make sure everything works as it should
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Not sure if you’re talking to me but I’ll plug it in and test it tomorrow or Friday
Yup, was referring to you 
Mine should arrive soon too and I’ll definitely test it out asap
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HI，You need to unplug the receiver before testing the motor parameters
is your website offline again? There are several links in this post and it seems none is working right now.
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They moved to a new URL that more accurately represents their brand
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Alright so I got the motors spun up today after soldering on all the connectors. Latest version of VESC tool, 2.06. I didn’t update the firmware on them yet because I wanted to see that they worked fine with the firmware they shipped with. I could check again but I think I recall seeing that they shipped with 3.65 in VESC tool.
I had no issues running motor detection with medium outrunner settings and specifying them as direct drive, and was able to run detection just fine through CAN. After that, I configured them to use BLDC instead of FOC since my other two hubs are on BLDC on the TB vescs. Both motors can be operated with the keyboard controls although there are some weird skips on startup like normal with the keyboard control settings.
I will probably leave CAN turned on since this is supposed to be an improved design and it’s a dual vesc anyway. In addition, it makes the controller wiring easier. I am already running split ppm for the TB vescs, so I will probably just split another off and run the wire up to the front of the board. That brings me to my stopping point for the moment; it is not immediately obvious to me which port the PPM wires are supposed to go into. I see the UART ports but I’m not sure if I’m just expected to use three of the UART port pins for the ppm input or if it’s one of the other ports.
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Any chance I could convince you try FOC anyways? I think that’s what blew up the other controllers but if you’re never going to run FOC, no need to risk it
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I’m not sure exactly what you mean, I ran the motor detection in FOC and it worked fine, spun with the keyboard okay as well.
I wanted to run the actual board on BLDC to make it louder and match the other two motors on the TB vescs. To be honest the only thing 4.12 I trust with FOC is the Focbox. Were you asking me to run the testing in FOC or run the board on foc?
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Looks like you have a different revision of it. I have UART ports instead of your pwm spots and the caps are different parts.
I wonder if I should just try and see if it works just using 5v gnd and pwm on the UART port
Alright more news gents. I got PPM working just fine by using @YUTW123 provided UART cable and plugging into the side that I configured from, still in CAN. Looks like he made it so you can just use the PWM, 5V and GND wires from the UART port and it will work. I have a Vx1 that’s in the FrankenWheel build but I didn’t want to disassemble it to test this quite yet, so I will probably use UART mode on the Vx1 but I had this GT2b laying around (it had some weird intermittent problem that is apparently gone right now) so I just used that so I could test it.
Here’s a video with the MakerX dual properly running Current no Reverse with Brake in BLDC mode on the Landwheel hub motors using 3 3s lipos I’d replaced from my main board.
As you can see, no issues here.
Unlike some people, I do actually like smart reverse, so I decided to try turning that on, and it seems to have some weird issues. The video below shows the board first running in smart reverse, and then after fiddling around and finally finding the switch, I changed it to current mode to show that normal reverse works fine. I would imagine that the smart reverse is only having issues because it’s on the bench with no load, but I don’t have much experience with it, so maybe someone could enlighten me.
Let me know if anyone has questions, the rig is still out in my garage clamped
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I think smart reverse needs sensors if you’re running in non HFI mode
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Ah. I was not aware of this. In that case I will probably just run no reverse. Either that or try and wire up the sensors, but in interest of consistency I would have to do the same on the TB vescs, which… Well I probably should just do it, but you know, sensor wires are annoying lol
HFI is still only in the beta firmware afaik and I don’t want this board to have any beta-ish issues.
Update: today i received the replacement bottom pcb part. I soldered bullet connectors, xt90 (out of xt60 for now), used industry standard circuit testing:
(Stolen off youtube).
And… it works… i reordered a spare jst connector to fit a uart receiver, ran detection, unsensored because i can’t be bothered to flip the 2 more jst’s for now, everything seems fine with no load for now.
I’m going to start drilling holes for pg-7 glands and power/charging and include some photos here tomorrow.
After everything is assembled i’ll try my luck and take it for a spin on the street at 48A motors(what wizard detected)/20A battery/-10A regen per each side
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Lol my battery detection defaulted to 99 battery amps and -60 regen
Hub motors were 35 amps I think. I changed the max battery to 45 if I recall correctly
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99A is a vesc thing. There is no step in detection where the esc detects what the battery can do, and there is no catalogue(yet) of known battery models with specs in the vesc tool
Oh okay haha I just hadn’t used the vesc tool without doing the wizard (would have needed to update the firmware). Wasn’t sure.
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There was a discussion about this 2 weeks ago on the fw 5.00 update thread. Happy reading
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