Vesc6 is pretty big for Haya indeed. For that deck 107mm wheels is really big. without cut out you need the BOM or a thick riser. If you 97mm wheels should work. I use it with the spud that is kinda similar.
yes, v6 flush exactly with the top of the deck … no big deal Im using v4.12 and 12s5Ah until the change.
Yes, as you know I love big wheel and long deck ^^
Sorry what is BOM ? I use extender plate 
it will look like this :
btw, the hammock looks like to be designed for this deck !
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no wrote to fast…bomb are extender too. https://www.sickboards.nl/it/brackets/11755-g-bomb-super-fork-bracket.html
It will look so sick
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ha yes ! (just prefer the 12€ diy way for this ^^)
Ho yeeaaah !! Thanks to you
Sorry for the off topic >.< back to the STORM ! Can’t wait to read your feedback 
No off topic man. Really I love talk about theae gears.
Your DIY version is perfect. How thick is it?
@rey8801 I always found this design really nice, so much I’m making something similar, but with shorter motors
How did you manage to remove the stator from the original motor without damaging it? In my current plan I would get a slim arc saw and cut it in a few places from the inside out until I can break it free
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Thanks man! Believe or not I still have to test them. Took my life to make it but didn’t test it yet, only on bench! I feel so fool! Too many things I guess.
Anyway to remove the stators from all the motors I have done it is a metter of hammer and a pipe of similar diameter of the internal pipe. Most of the time the stator pipe has a keyway and some use retainer as well. In that case you need to heat it up and hammer it step by step from the opposite side. I still have all the stator pipes, never broke or cut one to remove it. If they could assemble it, you can definitely going backwards.
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That’s too bad, but I understand, more projects than time as always 
Thanks, I will definitely try the non destructive method first, what I didn’t get on how you do is how do you support the stator without damaging the windings?
Pardon the poor drawing, but in my head I would have to put something between the stator and the face of the motor and them use the hammer on the tube
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ahahaha Amazing drawing
Anyhow the stator has a decent weight, so it will acts as static mass. You first remove the front bearing. the nyou will see the staotr pipe and you can printo r better find a alu or copper pipe with similar diameter. Then if it is glued, heat gun pointing the base (most of the time is where the glue is) and when it is hot then gloves, thick tissue to do not burn your hands and start hammer from the front. You should see the back rear pipe coming out.
That makes sense, I will try it, I thought it would be glued really tight after seeing some videos of people trying to remove it
Thanks for the tips
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You have to give it a good 2 minutes hot gun job to start. Better heat it up slowly and even distributed.
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I will see if I can borrow one, and no damage to the windings or the green insulation by heating up a lot?
never saw any sign of damages. is not that you have to melt it to liquid form. It will get hot but not too much in my experience. Target the bottom. Anyhow are you sure that they used glue? I had motor without as well.
Nice
The motors I will do this still have to arrive, but since they were the cheapest I could find they may even come already loose
ahahah possible. Anyhow is a bit tidious but totally possible to remove the stator. Which motor size are you gonna use?
6355, I wanted to go bigger, but it wouldn’t fit keeping the same width as the front truck (Paris 195mm)
I used my direct drive simulator™ to test it and it was fine, no overheating, enough torque for a short board, I still have to try with the 85mm wheels to see if anything changes
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No you are not alone 
Clever simulator 
I would actually go with custom Kv motor and ask for 60-75Kv based on the wheels you are going to use.
85mm wheels are nice but the clearance will be a problem
I wanted, but the price would be more than double
When using a direct drive, from a motor perspective the Kv hardly matters, unless it is too low that you don’t get the speed you want, what changes is that you will need a higher motor current on the ESC to produce the same torque, since I will have plenty of cooling for it will probably not overheat
The clearance may be an issue, my pulleys have the same clearance as the motor will have and they are fine, surely the motor is much longer