yeah, the thing is, these rims are darn small, so its hard to have my designed things show clearly in renders and pictures, im curious to how my prints worked out though.
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v1,5
v2
v3
so which ones do you guys like best?
- v1.5
- v2
- v3
0 voters
also what width do you guys think fit these hubs?
- 2
- 3
- wider than 3
0 voters
As cool as more screws would look, I don’t want to spend 10 minutes undo anymore screws than I have to. Plus alignment could be hell. In theory, you never want to full screw in one screw at a time. You should advance the entire set for a good, non-binding fit. Spinning the hub around and doing half rotation per screw sounds painful 
@spade, why go 3 inches? Are there a lot of tires and tubes that work with 3 inches? Or are you talking about stretching a 2 inch into 3? Seems like there would be more rolling resistance with the bigger contact patch
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the rims have a locking system that only works one way and makes sure the rotational strain is not all on the bolts 
i printed the files to see how the fitment is. so no turning the rim needed
also now that it seems that i have to do two halves anyway, i decided to go with the kegel core design, just like the janux hubs. exept i will keep the screws (if you use them for a pulley) in one half so its easier to swap a tire. the other half will still support the rotational forces by going over the boltheads.
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v3 as 3 inch width. looks kinda nice i think, should look if i can move the valve hole out of the rim, have to keep balancing issues in mind.
6x3" tyres arent widely avail
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better to be said, nearly nowhere, only found like one type offroad tire. unless people are talking about stretching tires i think i will keep 2 inch
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It’s not a concern that the bolts won’t hold rotational strain. Otherwise more bolts would be better. Cheap ali 6X2 wheels use just 3 M6 screws for their hubs and they hold up fine.
The concern is that the two sides of the rims are planes and planes should be joined together evenly by screwing each screw a little bit at a time until properly tighten in a circular or star pattern. This is because even if rotationally aligned, the planes can still become skew to each other and cause binding and other issues.
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Ah yes i see, well ill think about it yes, maybe ill remove the screws alltogether from the outer side of the design, just like the nice references people sent me here 
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As far as aesthetics goes, I can go either way personally. If you wanted to keep the screw look without increasing assembly time, you could go for fake holes or holes that don’t sink all the way through. That ways, some of the screws could be installed and not be removed when taking apart the hub
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Will be working on it tonight, gonna check out the wheel widening page that @ducktaperules made, should be some spicy info in there!
Edit:
i just realised this is not handy to do when you need to swap a tire and have a pulley bolted on… unless i made extra holes in the pulley…hmm okok not that much of a biggie
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My question… The first of many, is why this centering relief?
I haven’t looked at every hub available… But the high-quality offerings from many vendors do not have or need this feature (red)
They all have a slight champfer (yellow) less machining and a stronger overall component allowing a thicker tire/tube support…
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Ah thanks for the good feedback, will take a look at this!
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so i took a look at it, i thought it was to keep the tire on but gave the inner tube a more relaxed way of expanding while sitting stuck well. but it turned out to be for bead seats.
So you are right and i can get these humps out of the design. thanks for your input!
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also on the chamfer note, were they plastic or do the aluminum ones have this too?
the aluminum hubs I have are 100% flat across the face, some of the plastic ones have a slight dish in the hub center
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yeah thats what i expected, the hubs have like 2-3 degree to get out of the injection mould.
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Thanks a lot to the lovely man @Janux-esk8, he was willing to give me some dimensions he uses on his hubs!
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