Like the Unity?
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The unity has push to start, yeah- Iāve used it and it works wellā¦
I see all the big names posting on here being like āf the loop key! Iām not using that anymore!ā But I canāt find a reliable on/off button
My boosted boards Iāve run for years before entering the DIY game (direct insults this way) never had an issue w their on off setupsā¦ just curious why itās so much harder for us in the Diy realm
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Iāve wondered about that as well. It might be just down to the fact that their batteries are smaller / have less voltage, so they donāt put as much strain on their on-off switches. Or that they donāt actually cut power, rather just disable input. (So drain battery, and are a fake on-off switch)
Boards with bigger BMSes like Evolve might use e-switches, which are reliable. Maybe someone whoās taken apart such boards knows for sure.
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Nah itās just that so far weāve been playing with fire in a niche market and building toys with RC hobby grade parts and limited choice.
Boosted had one thing for them, it was the whole ecosystem and parts matching.
Thanksfully things have improved a lot and will keep on going.
You miss the point. The clean look can be achieved either way, and the loopkey itself can serve as an extra safety / fuse instead of an additional failure point. Just design the port accordingly.
The switch itself, well weāll see!
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Understand why you want to be able to interrupt power, but why is it called ā anti-spark ā ?
The switch needs to carry the current safely without overheating, but else where do sparks appear in this context ?
The only time you cut high power currents is when the esc is gone faulty and is in runaway or smoking mode. It is not like there are petrol fumes in the bilge of my landyachtā¦
Sparks appear when you connect battery to the ESC, at that point the capacitors of the esc gets charged instantaneously with very high current.
It produces a loud pop and spark at the point where the loop iz connected.
Try plugging in regular xt90 instead antispark one. You will see and hear a spark. As well as black burning marks on the xt90 pins.
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Iām nearly finished a build for a mate using a unity with the switch, but iām putting in a loop key as well so that when the unity antispark dies, I wonāt have to deal with it 
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Ah yes, the inrush current.
(Now I read you explanation I remember I was advised to put a resistor over the motorcontroller for my bowthruster to pre-charge the capacitors. Different approach. )
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I have a best of both worlds solution to offerā¦ will attempt to prototype today. Be back later with pics.
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Ok I made a very rough prototype with some shit I had on hand, I dont have my own printer and im not very good at 3d modeling but I sent some sketches to my guy and hopefully heāll have something done up by tomorrow.
A physical slider switch that connects/disconnects an xt90s loop key from the circuit. Obviously it will require internal housing for both the loop key, with perhaps one screw to swap loop keys if need be, and the xt90 it plugs into. But it has all of the benefits of both a physical on off switch and a loop key. Correct?
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Cleaned up a bitā¦
Should have a 3d model printed by Monday. If it looks good and yall are interested ive got Hella spare xt90s anyways, I can make up a batch of like 50 without much effort xD
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Itās been done. Canāt recall what it was called. But a 3D printed t-handle loop key built into a truck riser.
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Yep Iām building a fallout level scrap tech one right now just to see how compact i can actually make it xD
Yep:
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That oneās a nice design. Not sure you can get much smaller beyond chopping the arms off the ātā
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Not bad at all. But also not exactly what im working on, either.
Forgive the apocalypse quality, actual outer switch profile could be very very small, like only slightly larger than a direct loop key slot. Now to shrink the internal design and yell at my friend about it!!
Yes, but you still have to mount it somewhere. The janpom design has extra material to do double duty as a riser pad, which actually makes it lower profile than if you were to mount it anywhere else beside inside the enclosure. The āswitch mechanismā is the loop key profile, essentially, plus a handle.
Where do you plan to mount your angle bracket? If through an enclosure, Iām curious how youād seal around the moving parts.
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This is purely a 3 dimensional sketch for my 3d modeling guy. I do not intend to use a single part of this xD im just technologically challenged
