Sure. Thats the enclosure. It is also available with top mounted screws (“R” option). I opted for bottom, because the heatsink would be a bit too large and overlap the holes. This way I have to leave out one middle screw though (still 5 left, so it will be fine).
https://www.serpac.com/s-series/172.aspx
They have a lot of other dimensions as well:
https://www.serpac.com/s-series.aspx
Heatsink:
Thanks, it isn’t that hard if you have some experience, I do app development part time alongside my computer science studies 
That’s my “metr pro” module. It’s a Teensy 3.2 microcontroller board and an Adafruit BLE module. I’m a bit mad at Freefly because they used 5v logic for UART. There are basically no ready-made boards with inbuilt BLE and 5v logic or 5v tolerant pins. So I have to use two boards with a lot of wires. Sad.
did you have to extend the motor axles in any way?
Or did it come that long?
from the looks of this motor its 218mm from on end of axle to the other, close to 9" holy cannoli thats a big motor
It is a big motor indeed. But the shaft still isn’t long enough. And it has a thread on one side.
I replaced the shaft with a 292mm hardened steel one.
Interesting that Flipsky specs it at 148A max, APS says 200A. I guess I’ll better not go beyond 150A, the motor does get pretty warm (not hot), even in very low ambient temps.
I am running 110A motor and battery atm, I wanted to up that to 125A motor next because the ESC is absolutely unimpressed (20°C max at 6° ambient).
Some great updates @Benjo! Good to hear the heelstraps are a good buy, might have to get them aswell 
And I am still contemplating the barrels, are they also better for offroad riding?
Thanks
I tested the barrels in 80% off road situations and I was happy. But I didn’t notice that big of a difference compared to the springs here, except that just like on the street general stability while accelerating or braking is way better. My guess is that a lot of the instability that springs have does come from this rebound/bounce back effect. You don’t have that with the barrels. And in my opinion this helps in every situation, off road or not.
Okay thanks for the explanation, very helpful!
Wondering if you have pics of this process, replacing the motor axle
What part of this process? There are like 3 parts, disassembling the motor (includes removing the old shaft), modifying the new shaft (circlip groove, flat spots for the grub screws) and finally putting in the new shaft.
It is important to measure or calculate how long the shaft needs to be and how far it must be pushed into the bell.
Lathe.
I’ll probably have one someday I could have gone to a maker space or shop, but I honestly didn’t feel like it, especially because I thought my quick&dirty solution would be sufficient.
So basicly your new shaft is helf in place by grub stew plus loctite? Where did you source the new shaft?
It’s nothing wrong with your method.
You’d need a sturdy machine frame and carbide plates.
I have access to one, but it’s called work…
Actually just loctite. Grub screws don’t add much to it without flat spots. Maybe if you glue them as well. But the shaft shouldn’t go anywhere with just the loctite.
I ordered mine here.
I thought I would print a modded case for my GT2B remote after the battery broke off in a crash. But I actually like the stock case because it works so well with my Hillbilly wrist guard gloves. So I decided to repair it instead.
I simply cut out some plastic from inside the grip and glued in a single Samsung 25r cell.
And I ordered a PineTime smartwatch dev kit (not here yet). It’s a 25$ BLE touchscreen smartwatch that you need to program yourself entirely. It comes with zero software. But thats totally fine with me, I just want to do some BLE communication with my telemetry app and then show some of the most interesting values on the watch.
This will be great because it sucks to put off the glove to check the battery voltage on the phone. And I can see values live while I’m riding 
The Arc doesn’t output that data, but I calculated something around 35 Wh/km both from taking nominal battery capacity and range as well as from looking at average battery current draw and range. That is from my last ride which was 17.3km/h average, 80% off road and pretty hilly. Need to include that metric into my app and do more rides to be able to take this number seriously.
Edit: I guess that is pretty bad efficiency 
But the 80100 isn’t efficient to begin with.
Does it output battery current draw and speed data?(track your position through GPS for the distance done) Calculate that in your app.
Yes, battery current and rpm. That’s what I used to calculate wh/km, together with the range I got last time. I will put that in the app.
