Yaaaaa 
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will there be a video teardown of the hub motor? 
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Yeah uh, this can also be brought on a plane
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No lol. I won’t go that far. 
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I think Jeff from NEO has posted some internal pictures, check the NEOhub thread
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Very interesting. I am waiting for a Omakase with the solo kit I bought off Facebook for 500€
What kind of cells could fit in there? p42a?
Would it work and give more power and range?
I seem to remember you can only swap them for 30q.
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Thank you. How much of a difference would it make?
Not huge.
Samsung 30Q 3000mAh @15~20a
Samsung 25R 2500mAh @20a
Samsung 30q would give you a bit more range. But really not much. 0.5Ah more.
You’d get more sag with 30q if doing 20a continuous, as you’d reach their temp limit of 75° fairly quickly. Meanwhile the 25r have a true 20a discharge
someone needs to try and put p26a or p28a in it, then run it bypass 
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I think the 25R is pretty similar to the LG HE4, they come up on nkon fairly often and I thiink they’re good powerful performers just not very high capacity. I presume they’d work too?
Also that 15~20A feels prettt ambitious for a 30Q, don’t they sag and lose capacity quite a lot if they get near 15?
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Yeah. P26a would probably be the go to cell now.
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GG, but the biggest thumb down is for their wheel sleeves!
They need an aluminium core, , like LW or Mellow or Wowgo, otherwise they will deform very fast when getting warm and nice rolling will be no more.
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Anyone tried a battery swap with these? I have a dead cell and gonna look into a rebuild of the pack.
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No one has because it’s not worth it (since the cells are the right choice for the pack, as I stated in my conclusion)
But if you have a dead pack, then swapping the cells is a very economical solution and is totally feasible from what I’ve seen, albeit I bit of work desoldering the cell tabs from the PCB.
If you are not experienced with battery making, I highly recommend shipping the pack to a battery builder so he work with it.
@BenjaminF @Skyart @A13XR3 come very recommended and I can personally vouch for their passion and dedication to battery building, but there are also other as you can see here
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Reworking pcb batteries fuckin sucks.
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It does. But this one it particular isn’t tooooo bad.
Having examined it first hand I can say it’s well within the doable.
The one in my ebike is literally impossible to swap for example.
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Thanks! I got a replacement pack but given Loaded have closed their doors now if anything goes on it I’ll need a help!
Second question is the remote if that ever needs replacing - I’m assuming it’s a fairly specific firmware on it as they have their “unlimited mode” and some weird stuff…
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Most likely the remote receiver is soldered onto the ESC. All Loaded remotes will work but anything else won’t. Depending on what you do to the remote it might be fixable.
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Anyone able to troubleshoot these? I have a kit where it occasionally drops BT and/or one of the wheels stops working and i can’t work out how the do the matrix of the esc/batteries/hub motors on the dual kits.