yeah im still editing the discharge test video… but was solid till about 2.8v roughly… then it started tanking hard… but rebounded nicely…
yes more size and weight…and this will be discussed compared to an 18650 which with a 30q would probably still be the overall winner, especially if money aint no thing…but it is
but the main reason is I wanted to be the first lol… not one fucking “anything” for eskate use that i could find…maybe ebike but didnt even care to search for it cuz thats not my world nor where Im at…
I’m using them on top of the anode in cell level fused packs, underneath where the nickel folds over itself - where the fuse wire is soldered and sharpness abides. Basically hiding the anode (and neg- casing) from anything to short it
here some more pics from the build
this build i wanted to try something different… i usually solder a piece of 12ga across the series connects to help with the ampacity for each group… this made me ask WHY should I spot weld nickel across the series connections in the first place if its not enough (probably is but up for debate) for the spec’d current. For me the main answer would be “pack rigidity” keeping everything nice n tight and snug together but also makes it a real pain in the ass to service the pack should there be a group that dies or what ever… so i opted not to spot weld across the series… (except for these little things)
since I also am tight on space using a case meant for 18650s thin and flat were the goal.
I opted to try copper braid… cut some strips of nickel and solder up up direct so no heat transfers to the cell…
make sure you have plenty of solder as braid drinks that shit like juice… after they were all done the nickel legs could be trimmed to size before spot welding…
added bms wires to one side…could have made the 2 wires more length wise so they didnt cross but next time… after this first side was done I slipped on my new favorite, clear shrink wrap, over it to fish the pack-to-pack series wire through…
made sure everything was good and all lined up…i used a small strip of foam between each pack to prevent any rub through from side to side as well… then shrink wrapped the whole thing one last time in black wrap as clear was more expensive for the size i needed…
Nice idea with the copper for the serial connections.
One thing to point out is, that all your current non the less will run over that small part of single nickle strip.
it´s just a very short piece, so probably it will not be an issue, but definitly a bottle neck there.
It also means that the current travels most from and to the cell which is attached to the one nickle strip for your serial connection. This can (does not need to) lead to get your p pack sooner out of balance as one cell is stressed more than the others.
Im also half tempted to try the 30q’s even those the reports vary…most ive heard on those are sometimes there are dud cells… most have capacity and the real question amp output… in a large pack who cares kinda… but id hope at least for the 15amp on a 30q knock off =/
150 shipped for 60… like… if the capacity and basic amps were there…id replace this 21700 and save a couple pounds lol… or i dunno what…i almost will have more batteries than boards hahaha
