I also used the ring portion only from this
Some BMS do this. If it has a separate P- and C- port then it does not. In that case, accidentally leaving a light plugged into your charge port might permanently damage the battery
I’ve been doing it for a few days now (pulling 0.1c from a “charge only” port), and it’s been okay so far. No issues with charging and it’s not out of balance
If one uses an electronic switch to power on and off and that switch is taking its power from the receiver, would that be basically foolproof like an actual loopkey? In the event I dont forget to turn off the board itself ofcourse
…my idea x my build is been kinda crazy. Got these 10 cms. 9W LED bar lights from China. Wanted them to hang below deck and behind the truck because I didn’t want them up front or over the deck.
For this particular build instead using just one bar, I found that I could use two of them, side by side, doubling the lighting power, but all this by using the entire board width from edge to edge. Then I decided to hang them on a V position using a bracket which I custom built out of a steel plate that I cut and grinded down. By doing this I avoided the front wheels and the truck so they cannot block the light beams.
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I’ve since gone to a helmet light, much more convenient actually. The low to the ground lights are a bit touchy though, they cast long shadows and lots of wasted light
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Thanks for your compliments Brad! Means a lot to me. Glad you appreciate these type of effort that some times other eboarders don’t comprehend (with remarks like “why the need?” or “will be an engineering catastrophe”, etc.) and are discouraging, specially coming from DIY builders which are supposed to understand this type of weird solutions we create to overcome our daily Esk8 challenges. Thanks again Bro. 
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@pixelsilva Small random question. Why didn’t you make both cables go towards the inside of the lights? My OCD kicked in
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Ohh Bro, that simple. If you look at them from the side ,these lights are symmetrically oval in shape on bottom and top and they also come with cooling fins (on one side) to dissipate the heat from inside. So you immediately assume the fins should be at the top…
If you place both bar lights, side by side, facing forward, their fins are on top but that also means (in this case) that the cables will come out from their right side…
This presents a little inconvenience which is that you will not be able to channel both cables between both bars and direct them thru the center of the board due to their constrained length. So the best way for me to keep the same length and route them out as one set of braided cables was by exiting them midway the first bar on the right (left from your view). Cables will eventually go inside the custom enclosure so it doesn’t matter which side I’ll decide to route them or not. They will be underneath the board and not visible.
In this image you can clearly see on the left bar the cooling fins are a top and the flat side without fins at bottom.
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if your feeling brave you might be able to open one and flip the aluminium extrusion 
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correct, i meant my BMS but maybe that wasn’t clear.
Ain’t nobody got time for facebook
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I tried 4 times to upload the video…works and then becomes unavailable due to server problems…and only with that specific video. Theres no copyrighted music going on or anything. Dont know what’s the issue
The issue is that you’re using facebook. Try youtube or something else that’s made for video.
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That’s what I meant. I originally put it on YouTube before it became unavailable
Wow, that’s awesome
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Has any one made a simple little PCB that can take a UTAR in put from a VESC See when brakes applied. Then output a reduced level to the tail light weren’t there’s no braking signal seen? I can fined PPM rc bits
Only thing Close I’ve seen is this but I’m just thinking all I want is to turn on and off lights from a nunchuck style remote and have the tail light increasing brightness under braking.