If those don’t work out, I’d recommend looking somewhere other than Amazon. Mouser.com, Digikey.com, Jameco, Arrow, there are quite a few to choose from. They mostly deal in discrete components (capacitors, diodes, etc), but they also have standalone self-contained DC-DC converters in all shapes sizes and flavors.
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I ofteren over speck electronics by 4/5x to compensate for spikes and to run cooler instead of 0.5a I’d use 2amp can ofteren be few penny’s in it
Also if you trying to balance you only need to run 2 on the brighter ones if it helps
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Inside 36v - 72v to 12v 10amp converter
Leans heavily on 2 X 12v regulators. There is a fuse a choke and some decent caps. I will put it on the scope when I get home. Better than I expected for $5. Lacks current regulation but I will be pushing 2 anps max so not an issue most of my lights are 5v and have seriously good 5v 20amp system.
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I wrote drok CS.they said the noise/RFI could possibly be becuase their converter isnt isolated… Not seeing any reasonabke option that are…but also made me wonder if theres any correlation between noise and amp draw compared to a.converters max output? So say if its non isolated 10a max would there be more potential noise vs the same converter but rated at 20a?
Still waiting on another reply from drok in general…
Isolated converters can help. Lots of those on Mouser and Digikey.
Running at less than peak load can also help.
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Wow, that looks huge though – for fitting inside an esk8.
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It’s about a inch tall but and uses the case as a heatsink I am going to use my own external heatsink and lose the case.
You don’t have any heat sink for the leds? Usually they will die really quick without it
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Holes in the back for ventilation, they’ve been working for many hours already.
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Wow really?? What voltage / current are you pushing? Mine reached un touchable heat levels within seconds, I can’t imagine they’d be fine without the heatsinks they have
Your little mounts do look quite slick though
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Thanks! 6v pushing to them. This is ABS and somehow it carries the heat. I have spare heatsinks too and if i’ll see that over time I do get melting or burnout, I’ll change the design to include them on the leds.
So weird man I’m surprised haha how many amps?
I looked at metal fill filaments to see if maybe I could print a heatsink but I guess they aren’t structural
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4.8a
Why do u need to print a heatsink? Why not use an existing one ?
https://a.aliexpress.com/_mPH3zbh
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Oh it wasn’t a need it was just me thinking it would be cool to integrate the heatsink into the 3D printed mount
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If you need a DC to DC converter that’s regulated small, efficient with isolation tdk-lamda is the ticket.
https://product.tdk.com/en/search/power/switching-power/dc-dc-converter/list#type=i6A&psts[]=0&_l=20&_p=1&_c=part_no-part_no&_d=0
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I’ve been pretty happy with a headlamp.
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I was super happy to see that product, then I saw it
Unit Price $33.55
LoL that’s high. But that’s a really nice unit… Might try one…
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guess we’ll see tomorrow if a high amp non isolated changes anything… ive poked around on mouser/digi things look a lil pricey but on the flip after Ive killed a few units and thrown money away it almost would have been even. I am also tempted to get more mini adjustable converters just to see what voltage produces my perceived max output of the red/blue cob and their amp draw…sadly they either are coming from china RN on ebay or amazon at a premium =/
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Crazy power density in something so small.
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