Let there be ESK8 lights

Most commercial LED solutions have some kind of driver circuitry built in already. Those fog lights (I assume they were originally designed for a car or ATV) most likely had a 12v-to-whatever-the-leds-want converter inside.

You can use a dc-dc converter with constant-current function, but a dedicated LED driver will often have other nice features like remote dimming control. I used that to emulate high/low beams and brake/tail lights.

As long as the combined forward voltage of all your LEDs is less than the maximum output voltage of the driver, you can run all of them from a single driver in series. That LDU56 I linked earlier running off 60v can run up to 56 volts worth of LEDs. At 1A, that’s 56 watts of LED from a single driver.

Obviously in an esk8 application you’d be limited to 25-30 volts of LEDs to make sure they would be lit when the battery was at or near LVC, but that’s still a ton of power in a very small (1.25" L x 0.80" W x 0.49" H) package

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https://www.ledsupply.com/led-optics/10003-l25-carclo-lens-20mm-elliptical-spot-led-optic

Gonna order these, nice that first class shipping is free. Digikey is gonna be 5 bucks lol

https://www.digikey.com/product-detail/en/carclo-technical-plastics/10733/1066-1068-ND/2641684

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@MysticalDork said mostly of it

Only thing left to find is a driver that can fully use the led capability

And don’t underestimate the led heat production, even with this relatively massive heat sink I’m using, with the board stopped I can only run 1200 mA, more than that and the temperature gets out of control, they can do 3000 mA

On Lacroix lights they are run at 1600 mA, so if you manage to use the same LEDs (Cree U2 - T2 bin) at peak current you can have the same output as two lights in one, or in my case have almost 3 times as much light

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Yup.

Even the most efficient LEDs convert about 60-75% of the energy input to heat.

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Posted these cobs in thw fluxmotion thread…

Let it run 15min to see how hot.it got… Still thinking of using Velcro to attach and running the wires into the case at each attachment point… Ahould be ok

Heat sink side…

Direct on the leds

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how possible is it to attach this straight to a 12s battery (with buck)?
@Pedrodemio?
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With a converter yeah, nice that it comes with 3 lens types

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Hi lighted folks !

After many tries I think I now got the final version of this multi-purpose SmartRing mount :

  • SmartRing (as always for years now)
  • Gopro mount
  • XT30 socket providing 5V for the attached device (main purpose : light, but can be used for action cam or charging the remote)

As the SmartRing is powered with an 5V UBEC (40 RGB leds used + Arduino), I found a flashlight that would work at the same voltage + an easy way to install/remove ('cause I rarely ride by night).
I ended up with this product : https://fr.aliexpress.com/item/32922037927.html

The model without battery is perfect.
I just needed to solder the power leads on the battery pins. That’s all.

I didn’t try to charge my phone though.
I think it’s a bit too much for my setup as it hasn’t been sized for that much current in those thin routed wires (current would be something like 1.6A + leds).

Feel free to copy and remix the design ! :+1:
STL and SolidWorks 2017 files available here : SmartRing front support for MBS/Trampa trucks by Peemouse - Thingiverse

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I did exactly that :eyes:

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Another day… Another step… Bright AF!

https://www.instagram.com/tv/CDxTANahZE1/?igshid=1k55z6ryrj6bn

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Any led gurus here know why the green cobs glow at full while the red and.blue dont?

All wiring meets in parallel and the green is furthest away from the power source… Or is it an issue of which ever one wants to draw the most gets to?

How you wired them? Different colors have different voltage/current curves

because of this

and this

So each color needs a power source that adjusts the voltage so that the current flowing through them is the correct amount

You may need 3 power sources, or you can fake it by adding some resistors in series with the brighter ones, but the resistors are going to get really hot.

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all three are wired independently as they enter the case…then each lead comes together in parallel right before the buck converter…

i may just roll with it first and see how it looks when I ride as the overall output is still bright but wont know till I can mount the wheels and get it in the street…

of all them the red between the blue and green looked kinda dim but who knows…plus asphalt will absorb some light too

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Should I cut the LP-12 connector? :thinking:
I have AWG 12 cablewise 1.75 mm^2

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You can easily open them and desolador to save a bit of wiring

That would void the warranty though

Holy shit. They’re bright af. Just tested them on a 12V Led driver.
It’s epoxied up and hotglued.

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There’s 4 levels to. Those things will burn your retinas out :smile:.

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Indeed

I remember the first time I saw a video of those lights on the Lacroix Facebook group

They guy turned them on and I was like, that’s in bright, and them it kept getting brighter lol

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Sorry too lazy to reread 559 posts and too honest about it

Which lights are those again?

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