I’m sure some do, but more for growing tomatoes…
I feel you’re right on the delicate aspect, as well as power consumption and heat build-up are probable issues to deal with.
I broke many(!) of them in work lights. Once I went to LED, I’ll never go back for work. I’ve yet to have one burn out, even a lower brow Ryobi, in 8ish years since I switched.
I have had household use LEDs go out, though I suspect it was pcb issues, and not the led itself.
@veryhairedboys
I just tried this one out. Kick ass for lots of light but not great throw/spot for going very fast (30mph+)
Can I get some feedback on my light plan? Will it work? Has anyone removed the internal battery from these auto-sensing deceleration brake lights and wired it to their battery? I can’t find an auto-sensing brake light (4) without an internal battery - I want to turn it on/off with my relay remote rather than the button.
It’s going to kill your battery slowly with the buck converter not being able to be turned off. It’ll be on 24/7
https://easyeda.com/seb.morin/esk8
Best Opensource Esk8 LED Controller
You can Catch him on the French esk8 Forum.
This is really cool and I think I’d want to use this but I have no idea how to interpret that pcb board or how to use it and I don’t speak french. I want to replicate that esk8 you just showed!
You dont have to - his github, instruction and even the phone app is all in english. you can msg if you have question problems or to say thanks his english is good and he is a helpful dude.
On the pcb site it says many of the components are out of stock or unidentified so I don’t know if I can do this. This does have me thinking, can I use that accelerometer component to make my own smart brake light? Has anyone done this?
The buck converter will use power even when the relay is off? The bms will stop the buck converter once the bms reaches cut-off voltage though right? Like when storing the battery long term I could set the bms cut-off to 3.6v? How much power do you think it would drain? Maybe I will add a single manual switch on the board before the converter?
Looked for details. This loss is called the quiescent current? This person found a 15mA loss with 120w output. The one i found is 30mA. power supply - Efficient 60v to 12v DC-DC - Electrical Engineering Stack Exchange. This one is the most efficient I found but the queiscent current isnt listed Car Charger Power Supply DC DC 6.5V 60V to 1.25V 30V 10A Adjustable Step Down Buck Converter Power Voltage Regulator Module|Inverters & Converters| - AliExpress I would be okay with 15mA or less quiescent but not 30. Anyone have a link to a 15ma 120w (12v,10a) one?
15mA quiescent current is huge. That’s 360mAh of your pack being drained away every day. IMO you need a physical disconnect in there somewhere, or at least a reliable electronic one with minimal quiescent current draw of its own.
really? 360mAh per day means 2520mAh per week. About half a cell. My battery will be 4.8Ah*16p = 77Ah lets round to 60Ah with my cut-offs. That would mean it drains 0.6% per day or 4% per week. Thats fine with me. Id probably charge it once a week while active and in winter I can set the bms cut-off voltage to 3.6V for storage and it wont drain?
I have a missile lock switch on my 16S board to run my lights, when the missile lock cover is down it locks the switch in the off position. SO no accidental turning on my lights in the back of the car and killing my battery.
It switches the 72V on and off to the 5 & 12V buck.
That is epic! I will definitely go with this! I think I will install this but not actually use it because the converter doesnt drain much battery imo.
Ahh…big pack. Yea, that makes a difference as long as you are regularly charging the pack. 
As long as the BMS is set up to actually cut off the current to the DC-DC converter(s) then it’s okay.
How do I ensure this? Its nothing with the BMS just my wiring you mean? This is the BMS I was thinking of ordering: Smart 7S ~ 20S ANT Lifepo4 li ion Lipo LTO Battery Protection Board BMS 400A 300A 100A 80A Bluetooth APP 10S 13S 14S 16S Balance|Battery Accessories| - AliExpress 7S to 16S 320A
I don’t know anything about that BMS…sorry. It’s mostly in the way everything is wired together. Any BMS that shuts off at a decent low voltage cutoff point will be okay.
I’m a big fan of using a good physical disconnect though since you are otherwise depending on both the BMS and you keeping the pack charged enough all year.
For the 6 channel relay, I can either get a 433mhz or 315mhz remote. Which one should I get to minimize the interference with my esc remote? The esc (ubox) uses a 2.4Ghz reciever I believe?
