My budget is waiting for BRP wheels. I can break traction too on my Meepo Tubeless, especially if I’m not stanced perfectly. Couldn’t do that before 18s but now, definitely. My time on the leaderboard is like 85% throttle I think. Hard to tell on the batwing puck what the exact percent was.
And the scary thing about breaking traction is that it can cause OC errors and street face you. Not the most comforting thing to think about when doing full power launches.
Well then if either of them are offended I am sorry. It was not my intention
Reheheheheee
I’ve pulled upwards of 13-14 kW but never 16. Like everybody else is saying, traction and heat become issues very quickly especially on 20s. I’m super stoked for some of my beefy tires for that reason.
I should add that i’ve been using castles’s wattage numbers, which are battery amps * input voltage at that moment.
so in your pic, I see 162.5A * 68.8V = 11.2kw
Exactly! That’s how I get my numbers too. I get a huge amount of sag when pulling that much so I dialed it back to 10-11 kW. Still rediculous tho.
How does that work? I don’t really understand why breaking traction would cause one.
I’m not sure, it might just be a Solo thing but its repeatable if you do it without standing on the board.
Maybe something about the traction breaking and then catching again
do you know if you had “slow abs currrent” enabled?
It’s turned on and the limit is set at 175 which is the correct number for solos
I don’t track race. At all. But I have noticed sometimes that even running over a rock can trigger an OC fault in some conditions, so it makes sense to me. Not the same equipment at all, though.
Oh man, if only there was some kind of wheel that could roll over rocks without stopping
Something with one wheel, and an IMU? A toxic community to go with it
it’s something very roughly like: the sudden change to less load and back to loaded causes a spike of current, as it tries to overcome the new load. handling a load shock. if that’s quick enough that vesc can’t reduce duty_cycle in time it can hit abs overcurrent.
That sounds like a good explanation, but unfortunately doesn’t fix the issue - I have no idea if there even is a fix
Are you running traction control? It would help except when you lose traction on both wheels at the same time. You can set the erpm difference a little higher than stock so it doesn’t affect your turns.
No it’s turned off, I’ve never run it
Do you?
Since setting my abs max to 175 on my solos, i haven’t had any abnormal overcurrent faults, even from burnouts. Only from bad sensors 
Same here, I do know what he’s talking about though, I remember that same feeling on my storcore when it would slip and then fault
Would “slow abs max = on” potentially help?
Edit - just saw this was asked and answered above. Interesting.
Could the issue be helped with high sample rate torque sensing data ? Maybe easier than trying to accurately sense current?
