Re-using:
Mbs bindings
Petg pass thru foot pads
Matrix 3’s (minus the risers)
7° front wedge
Apex jump drives and motors
Five stars rims and 9" tires with anti puncture liners
Stormcore 60d+
Peli 1200 12s6p p42a
I’m redesigning my esc enclosure situation, to incorporate the gotchi:
Using the original aluminum plate to heat sink the esc and same tpu gaskets.
I’ll print lower profile case walls.
A new cleaner mounting design/anti-sink plate combo.
A new removable lid design that has a combination of petg and tpu to house the gotchi where buttons can be pushed and screen viewed without opening the case or undermining water resistance.
But, first new parts need to arrive and I need to build a printer enclosure so my prints come out cleaner. Lot of irons in the fire now. House projects. Camp trailer build. So, here goes one more.
You’re killing me by not showing photos of the crashed/broken deck. Also by not telling what happened but I am more interested in what it looks like tbh.
I’d say that once the new deck arrives that you should just rebuild it first before adding on the other new stuff that way you can still ride it in the meantime.
I dont think its going to be too impressive. Compared to some of the other stuff people make my blendr skills are amateur hour. Just making a new to me and a design/ re-work of my own making on the lid.
Its not that bad, really. I have some photos posted in the matrix 3 green room thread.
In sum. The trucks werent tight enough with the riser blocks that came with them. On an offroad ride on some mtb trails my rear truck base plate bolts sheared off. After everything was off it was aparent both front and rear experienced torsional movement and that cracked the deck in the process.
If you want to get rid of/ send the deck to a better home let me know. That amount of damage is something I can easily fix and make usable again. I’ve repaired way worse damage in the past as can be seen here:
The only reason I don’t still use this deck is because the steel pieces used had to be cut down to allow the battery enclosure to fit on and with my surf adapters I didn’t like where the force would be on the deck. It might hold up just fine with the bracket extension + surf adapter but I didn’t want to risk it.
There are two lumbar ties designed to be used in frame construction that are 100% way stronger than what is needed but I do not know the exact load each of them can hold. I just know it is well over my own weight + the board weight. (it is easier to over engineer something than it is to make it hold up only to the amount of weight it will normally experience) oh and I did use wood glue to reattach the pieces but that was mainly because I only have two hands and lining all the parts up without doing that would be hell.
Your images don’t show the damage as clearly as I’d like but I can tell that it probably wouldn’t need metal plates to fix it.
I’d imagine drilling the ends of the cracks and putty, some epoxy and whatever may fix the cracks well enough.
Haven’t quite decided what I’m going to do with it yet but, I’ll keep it in mind. You’ll have first dibs before I feed the trash can if I go that route.
Work in progress on the case lid. I want to be able to more easily accesss things than on my first case version so I’m debating cavities for nuts to be placed into and sealed into the print. I may or may not go that route still but, the gasket sandwich will use hex cap bolts.
Ideally the gotchi will sit below the case walls within the lid. The display (need it in hand to determine) could be flush with the top of the lid if with smaller sidewalled box. With maybe 1mm clearance to the stormcore. ± some gasket compression. This would protect from impacts.
Depending on if the gps chip is cased or not will determine how I am mounting it and creation of wire channels within the lid.
In the photo on the DRI web page it looks like the display may have buttons side mounted.
Probably can’t do much more with the designing now until I have the new gotchi in hand or detailed measurements
I do need to figure out how to adapt my heat sink/base plate to the new board though.
I’d go with a Dremel for more control over it. (also my Dremel is more powerful than my drill ) Although there is a chance it could be fixed without epoxy but I can’t tell from the photo.
What about using little hex shaped holes for the nuts but without sealing them in? It has little to no benefit but it looks nicer imo.
For the heat sink, you can buy high heat jb weld if you end up needing to epoxy it into place. takes forever to cure even in the Texas summer under direct sun, but you can use an oven to speed up curing. It is supposed to hold up better to high Temps without becoming flexible.
I’ve got it in my hub motor to replace the old magnet adhesive and it is working well still almost after a year of abuse.
I’ll probably be making some kind of adapter to go between the board and the threaded rods of my box. There’s extra holes in the new deck that won’t be used. Ill have to wait for it to get here to plan something out. As for the extra threaded rod, yes, those get the dremel when I trim to fit.
It should work. May need to test treatments for the tpu. The question really is will the light emitted from the display scatter in the tpu even if its so close there’s contact.
Used my calipers and a few images off the site with calipers showing sizing to estimate photo scale. Converted screen measurements to real life with the scale percentage. Once batch 2 ships it should fit right in . Worst case I re-print after taking physical measurements.
It would work for clarity but I think the 5x5 led display is also a button. So the flexible translucent tpu should be the ticket.
I want to keep it so I don’t have to open it up unless something is really sideways.
If this idea doesnt pan out, once I get a gotchiPro in hand I’ll rework my design. Takes me a couple hours to redesign/build something with proper measurements to print. And I have the printer and filament, so it’s convenient. I could come up with something that incorporates a clear panel that fits inside of the display size and gets printed into some sort into a gasket which would allow clicking but, since its not like a display screen its a 5x5 led thing… I don’t think, as of right now, that would be needed but, well see.
Only potential issue is that in a crash I forsee the base under the angled risers cracking or detaching close to where the risers make contact. The case is secure and rattle free but it moves ever so slightly if lifted/pressure applied to the case.
More testing needed to see if under trail ride conditions it holds up. Pending antisink plate I ordered and replacement TNuts for the base plate from MBS for the ones that were damaged in the original failure.
This thicker lid version is too thick for my Stormcore to reliably recieve the signal from my trampa wand. (Likely the wand is really more of a problem with it’s known weak signal issues)
Testing yesterday revealed cutouts where last signal input was continued when my body was between it and the box at normal riding position. The thicker lid also had to be tightened tighter to the box and the nuts have started pulling through.
When the signal dropped or was blocked/recieved interference. Throttle changes did not respond until line of sight from the box to the wand was established during these incidents.
Today was the same story after thinning out the lid again. Better than yesterday but, definitively if my chest is between the wand and stormcore it loses connection and continues whatever last input was. The angle the wand is held at matters too. If the bottom plate or screen is facing the reciever in the vesc it is better than if the aluminum/side is aligned.
Makes sence since the ble chip in the wand is on the bottom in a depression in the carbon fiber looking base plate and at that angle the maximum amount of material to pass through is present…
What I dont understand is why I haven’t noticed this before while riding on the board…i have been drinking less lately maybe thats disrupting my signal…
Will be interesting once the gotchi electronics are in, what kind of effect those have.
As a last resort I’ll try printing a petg cover to go on the wand in place of the aluminum cover. If anyone has a 3d object file already that would save me a couple days of building in blender.
maybe thats disrupting my signal…
