In that case is there any harm in taking the battery out of my car and using that? This is what I got. Duracell Ultra Gold BCI Group 48 Car and Truck Battery - SLI48H6M at Batteries Plus Bulbs
Because in that case I could move on and build a battery pack for my esk8 and then focus on a more permanent battery solution for the Kweld later.
Thanks!
It says 730CCA, so that should work fine. Worth a try, no?
As for harm, I imagine it’d mainly be that your car would be sans battery.
Hahaha I don’t daily commute so I might as well put it to use. Thanks, I’ll give it a shot!
The only thing I would say is that I was running 2 x 75C graphenes in parallel and it started causing trouble w my welder. If u look above, I ended up popping my fuse durinng calibration. Moved back to using 1 at a time at the advice of the guy who sells the units in N. America and the problems resolved themselves. He said it’s too much power for the system. I know others run 2 lipos in parallel successfully but that was my experience.
Okay, thanks for your feedback. I’m just trying to weld .2mm nickel for a 10s3p pack, so nothing too crazy at the moment. I keep reading that one turnigy nano is not enough, but one panther is and so I thought two turnigy nano’s in parellel might be enough power. At the moment I like the idea of trying my car battery, that will allow me to continue with the project and wait for the turnigy panthers to restock.
All depends on the IR you need to be above 800A under 2000A any thing over 1200A will work fine the more amps the better
I run 2x6Ah graphines started at 1800A but the battery’s have degraded and now down to 1500A. Thay could have updated the battery’s and might be able to deliver more now or you had realy good ones🤷♂️
Be prepared to have to unlock your car radio after 
I tried welding pure copper strips. Works fine with 35J and .1mm copper. I can imagine that .15mm copper welds fine with 55J.
heya, I just wanted to document my experience with my kweld and the setup I’ve gone with.
For starters, my current setup is 2x 4ah 3s turnigy “heavy duty” lipos. It works great and the probes get hot before anything else. @jack.luis made a nice dual xt90 to QS8 connector for me to hook up both lipos without any bottlnecks. The lipos and the wires stay nice and cool after an entire P group. With the 5ah variant of these lipos, it actually went over current and read over 2000 amps, but with the 4ah version it seems fine. On 0.2mm nickel I’m getting consistent welds at 42J.
my kweld managed to blow my 3s 5ah turnigy graphene. I wouldnt recommend a single graphene as the 10awg wires and xt90 cant handle all of the current and will get very hot.
Pictures:
Been using one of these for over 5 packs now and it works just fine
Even for welding at 92J
It gets hot but I’ve got fans blowing on both. Usually have to rest after each P group but that’s not a huge deal since the probes get so hot
After lot of tinkering and a little help from @glyphiks and @rusins here’s my setup and settings:
Battery: P42A
Nickel: NKON 0.20mm 30mm nickel
Power source: single Nano-Tech 5Ah 3s pack
Spoweld power: 55J top side, 57J bottom side
Yeah, cleaning the leads with a bit of sandpaper after a few welds or so is key to getting good results. Did you use isoprop to clean your cells and nickel before welding btw? Just wondering how important it is or not…
Looks like its gonna be a solid pack dude, nice work 
I got good results without isopropanol though I bet I wouldve had even better results with it, had propper nickel tearring right at 55J though I suggest checking how well it sticks, Next time I would do this I would make tiny adjustments on the fly based on the welds. Didn’t had any cells destroyed, and even testing cell is still usable, however I did experience one burn through of nickel due to bad contact between nickel and battery surface. It was on + end so it was ok.
does this mean you don’t need to use lipo to power the welder anymore?
Yes, you use the capacitor charger and a server psu, well you could power the cap charger with a lipo if you don’t want to use a psu
Only if you limited the draw from the caps
Ksupply can be regulated to output more or less amps, anyways a psu is like 40€ or less shipped, chesper than a lipo + charger
Output not input if you connect kcapps to a lipo the super caps will suck several thousand amps. The old ones if thay don’t kill you battry first caps will explode.
