I cant remember if I posted this here or not:
kWeld ProbeGripz are live, and they work awesome.
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Looks perfect imo! (Assuming the weld went through to the other side; try ripping it off with pliers to test) How on earth did you manage that with just 25J? 
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Nickel plated steel is much easyer to weld because steel doesn’t carry the current as well as pure nickel. same way copper is much harder to weld
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Hmm cough…¿¿♧♡♤¥ fake nickel
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Yeah the energy setting seemed much lower than most were recommending for this thickness, I tried to pull it off with pliers and it’s not going anywhere, seems solid.
Ahh fuck well that may be why… I’ll do the salt water test, hopefully it’s pure nickel, if not it’s another 2 month waiting game from Aliexpress…
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Done the ol’ the salt water test and all seems good. It’s sat here for a day or so and there does seem to be some super minor discolouration, although I’m suspecting that’s simply due to the fact that I scratched the nickel up with a nail and not with sandpaper…
I also double-checked the listing and it seems that it’s in fact 0.2mm and not 0.3mm nickel like I was thinking, hence the 25j weld seems somewhat in-line with what others have had good success with at that thickness.
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Damn i need 30J just to do 0.15. 50-55J is what i’ve needed for 0.2.
You must have a magic kweld or magic batteries 
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still not sure that’s enough scratching. Make it look like wolverine wanted a piece of it. or take a dremel and buzz a few spots on it. that little patch seems just suspect enough.
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That doesn’t seem really necessary. Surely the very fact of cutting the nickel strip would entirely expose the steel underneath along every edge…
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Yes and no it’s a game of surface area cutting can foled some of the Nicole over making a very small area exposed.
Gouudge it deep with a stanly blade. Drenel it see if it kicks off sparks. Soak it in super salty water for several days. All of these methods can help identify fake stuff but are not garentees. China like to come up with ways to beat the simple tests and save monny on production cost/materials
25j - 30j is what I use for 0.2mm my callipers say it’s 0.18 (from Nikon) and I seem to be able to weld on super low settings.
@tatus1969 said to take the brass bus bar of and run it over a fine grit to make sure it’s super flat and making contact with all the mosfets as this can mess up the calibration doing exactly what your reporting.
In my opinion there 2 sides of ripping nickel off to check welds
1 is over heating and the nickel been Brittal and easy to tear
2 is a sharp point probe tips making a small contact patch making it easy to rip
3 is a quick tug
All of these is cheating my opinion
I get a pair of smoth plyeres holding the nickel 10mm away from the weld parallel to 2 welds and leaver the pliers gently agains my thum that’s holding the cell with out wiggling side to side as this cause a pressure point. I can normally dome the cells neg terminal like this with settings as low as 25j befor making huge rips in the nickel.
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Just ordered a Kweld to replace my now medically retired boss level spot welder. Will this 3s lipo provide sufficient power for the Kweld? Rated at 50c with burst rating to 100c. I’ve already swapped the traxxas connector for an xt-90. I should add that at most I’ll be welding .02 nickel.
I can’t see any spec for IR.
Just buy the reccomended models from kwelds website or what other guys say its good on here
They are all very close in price
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I use a dremel with cutting disc to test this. If this makes a shower of sparks, then it is steel. Nickel does not produce any sparks when grinding it down.
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My spot welds started coming out weak and no holding at all basically.
When I try to calibrate after the short!, it goes right back to the joules screen without finishing the calibration.
any help?
The system reports why it does that, just make sure to know how the get the data - keep the button or footswitch pressed as explained in the manual. If it reports less than 800 amperes in the second step, then your power source is too weak.
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I Will check for any of the extremely cheap recycled Spim08hp cells that maybe died and are bottlenecking.
I was trying to hold the probes together while pressing the button so that is why I did not see.
Thanks for being quick ma dude!
anyone know if for the lasercut housing you can use any glue (gorilla super glue?)
why hasnt anyone ever told me about this method, so much fucking faster
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