I’ve connected all the batteries and fired up the kweld, but I can’t seem to get out of the Calibration mode. I’ve gone through the cal numerous times and its given these values:
Basically the values are all fine and in line with the manual, but once its completed it just keeps going back to the CAL menu and not onto the manual or automatic welding modes…
Alright I’ve figured out what’s wrong, with both lipos connected to the Kweld it was shooting an overcurrent error because the amperage was too high, only having one lipo connected solves the issue, but defeats the purpose of soldering the damn dual adaptor…
I still think its the leads that are too long and xt90 is no good for this. I had the exact same setup before and it should be explained somewhere in the tread by the creator of the kweld.
Mmm interesting. That doesn’t really add up since it was giving overcurrent errors and a reading of 1998A, but the problem was fixed as soon as I removed one lipo, now I’m only running with a single xt90…
Everything is keeping cool for now.
This is a test weld on 0.3mm nickel at 25j. Does it look any good? Most people have recommended much higher joules for this thickness…
! That’s higher than it should calculate to
How long are your probes?
Brass buzzard on the k weld might not be flat
Your ternagy nano Teck looks difrent to normal new model or fake?
It gave that reading every single time with two Lipos, my probes are the standard length that they came as. The brass tabs on each trace are definitely flat and tight. The resistance reading was also abnormally low at 2.08mR…
They’re both from Hobbyking, a reputable seller I assume. They’re probably just updated wrapping.
That makes no sense to me! xD
This one if it’s all going thro 1 mosfet then you can get a false reading
Did you calibrate it with one lipo and put in the right cable length?
Me neither…
That’s a good point, I haven’t changed the default values yet and the total cabling is an extra 0.4m more than the default value. The values also account for the total length of wires and not just the one way value which I only just realised. I’ll update it and recalibrate.
I’m using these.
The internal impedance is 1.2mO according to hbk.
I updated the cable length and am still getting overcurrent faults with two lipos… Ah well.
That’s super super low and why you having over current issues. 4.2mOhm resistance of the normal K weld. This makes it 2.1mOhm is the lowest battery combo and would give you the max 2000A at 12.6v
Reading the spec I think it’s UP TO 1.2 per cell so it’s really 3.6 fir a 3s. If you calculate in a parallel set up. makes your supply 1.8mOhm need to add a minimum of 0.3mOhm resistance to the system. for example 150mm of AWG 8 would just do it in theory. That should give you a starting point to try and tune in real life
The spec says up to so unlikely you got ones that good.
That’s absolutely no problem. You’ll probably need longer leads between kCap and kWeld though, in this case I’d beef them up to 4… 6 AWG. Make sure to configure the kWelds for the extra length. Calibrating with 2 kCap and longer leads will cause overcurrent. To pass that, only charge the caps partially. Maybe 6V.
Yes, calibration is required after every change at the output / probe side. For example, replacing tips, but also from time to time while they wear down.
Totally depends on the current that you get from them, this can easily cause overcurrent.
Same here.
Push the dial button once to get into the menu.
I agree, the 25j figure is suspiciously low. If you get repeatable results however, then I wouldn’t worry too much about it.
That’s not too far off the typical value of 2.2mR.
Flatness and good conductivity is very important here, maybe remove and sand off the bus bars if they show corrosion.
Increasing the cable length in the config actually decreases the allowed current, since the extra length is adding inductance in the system, which is the main “threat” to the system.
Just a quick question, should there be oily substance inside the probe holders?
They’re on mine. I figured it’s some kind of conductive grease.
Yeah, probably prevents oxidation too. Someone here said I should remove it but it didn’t really make sense so I left it. On my set there is a noticeable discoloration (oxidation?) on the exposed part of the probes and in the little hole through the heatshrink for the set screws.
Well it’s copper, it starts developing a patina the moment it touches air. Even copper alloys. Unless it’s coated which it wouldn’t be. No worries there.
