I look Monday in factory see what we having for you friend.
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Just put the XT150 wire AWG10 cables on with a lot of difficulty tho this haven’t done any were near as much as I hoped to reduce resistance.
This is the best spot welder you can get without spending thousands on it and going industrial grade
I recently upgraded it with super capacitors and it can weld 0.3 with bo problem, the only thing that is heating up are the electrodes which is normal
But beware green hraphenes will break their internal connections if you go anything faster than slow
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Im done with lipos, they overheat too fast and need to be charged too often for my liking
Im using kCap capacitors and a 1kW power supply, they are on 8.2V so I do not know how would a 4s battery behave on .3mm nickel
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It’s wired is 3s2p trying to up the ampage getting a extra 200amps was at 1400 amps by paralleling the 2nd pack with XT 150 in stead of the xt90 I gained the extra 200 amps gains a extra. This is with unbalanced battery’s at 11v might get more if I charge them both up.
I thort that but this was what the designer of the weld caps said
As fare as I understand using higer s count battery’s hinders more than helps any thing over 8v needs to be disapated as heat so it’s better to use 3s than a 4s
Do you have a photo of the setup? What power supply are you using?
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I gained 20 amps by pushing the tips like this in stead of pushing the points together like I did before thought it make a bigger difrence.
There is more I could do have 2 supply wires bolted on to the K it’s self would help a bit more guessing 5-20% more amps in shorter cables and less connector resistance.
I could wire up a 3rd battery but this would have to be bolted on to the k weld almost no point in adding a 3rd with a 3 way split as I think it do next to nothing except more capacity for more welds between charges.
This welder dose a grate consistent job on 0.15 nickel. Iv been unable to get it to weld 0.3 nickel strip consistently and I think it’s more to do with the lack of resistance in 0.3 nickel than it is the welder. thinking of going more down the 0.2mm instead of perusing the 0.3 much more.
My advise is get the highest burst and amp capacity single battery you can for DIY if you going at the peace we’re you double checking every thing you be fine no overheating problems and you get a 10s6p done with dule layered Nickle in one go with out charging.
If you fast at building packs or intend to be doing them regularly then it’s worth going double battery possibly even triple for the speeded demons that want it done now. I think the k Capps+supply are better than a single batty but can’t say that from experience yet
@tatus1969 Frank can you PM me you address to send the Ksupply back for repair please.
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So I charged the battery’s back up last night tryed again
Calibration results
So with the battery’s up at almost the units limit 1800 amps I tryed on a craft blade
Was actually almost sticking ok so just to make sure I did a 2nd I thort would overdo it
This didn’t over do it as much as I thought one was grate the other contact was midyoka I had a few jumping sparked and the temp is quite high in the Nickle but I can still hold it and it drops down to warm in the hands after a second. You would need to go very slowly on a pack to not build the heat up to much and have brakes to let the pack cool down
So from what I can understand so fare you need a minimum of power sourse supping over 1500 amps so minimum of dule battery or dule kCapps to do 0.3mm
I’m doubtful my battery’s can sustain this for very long befor thay need charging and I would question the reliability of the weld but hoping some one can show me how there are doing it. On the other side with the alterations i have done in XT150 and using 10awg for the Ysplit I am convinced if you could purchase 0.3mm Nickle with slots this unit could weld it consistently
My conclusion can the Kweld do 0.3mm. technically yes
Would you recommend people useing 0.3mm strip with the Kweld. No as I believe that it’s at the limit of the capability’s of the unit and wouldn’t be happy with the consistency of the results.
I hope I have provided enough evidence and information for people to make up there own minds about the unit welding 0.3mm on to 18650 cells pack. I’m still hopeful some one will show me there setup and how thay achieved it but Just because some people say thay have but not followed it up with pictures I’m still sceptical pleas show us.
Just a quick reminder I’m not nocking the unit I prefer it to others. I’m trying to do things with it that can’t even be try with other diy welders.
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If you get the chance try the higher voltage, to my mind it really helps, YMMV.
high amps delivery is what I thought makes the weld. I’m out of XT150 would need to order some more to make a series connecter to wire the battery’s in series but my understanding is this would have a detrimental result on the welds
Copped from the website
The working principle of these is to push electrical current through metal strip and battery tab. As the metals have an electrical resistance, this current causes the material to melt together. The molten metal should only occupy a small area to prevent damage to the battery. This is accomplished by using a high current, allowing for very short pulses.
I’m no electrical guru, so you’re probably better off talking to Frank. If you go i series then this is 6s…I can’t offer an opinion on that at all.
But in @Rojitor’s testig with copper and thick nickel I’m certain that 4s became the tipping point regardless of current. It was my experience too for copper.
In truth though I have not tried 0.3mm nickel.
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So you think using https://hobbyking.com/en_us/turnigy-graphene-6000mah-4s-75c-lipo-pack-w-xt90.html may give better results unfortunate I don’t have any and that be quite a lot to fork out for 2 of them to test.
In case any one is wondering just done another 360 welds at 15 jules for the 2nd and 3rd layer of 0.15 (15 jules on the 2nd layer I fined welds the 2 layered to the battery terminal and is very strong
battery’s stone cold at 4.11v a cell
Electrons and all cables a little raised in temp the say up a few degrees the XT90 on the battery’s are a little warmer and the hottest part of the system is the XT150 so it seems that is the most limiting part of the system still but I think it’s no more than 30 degrees so I’m happy and not changing it.
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Yes I think the voltage ‘punch’ of 4s through thicker conductive material would help. I was going to suggest buying a single 4s graphene to test, clearly the current itself is not helping in this situation. Understand if you’ve decided to stop ploughing money into this & 2 strips is an easier answer.
Of course you could try, then use HK’s 30 return policy on lipos if no noticeable difference experienced.
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Im using 2p kCap so it has plenty of power
Also if you double the cables going to the electrodes you will get ~500A more of welding current or so
I would reccomend around 1500A, thats kinda the sweetspot
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Hey! What grit sandpaper / what other method do people use to clean their Kweld’s tips from nickel residue?
I would go superfine like 800, the smoother the surface, the better the contact patches are
Hey guys, im running this lipo with the kweld and looking to weld series connections 0.15 nickel over 0.15 nickel parallel connections already welded to the cells, any recommendations on joule setting?
Battery’s were outputting 1600-1800 amps so might need it a little higher. First layer I was doing at 8 ish jules