one great way to find out!
jk a pop rivet is what you want
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That’s a major negative shipmate. Put it in the microwave first and get the stainless molecules moving then put a piece of 12g wire on one end and plug that into the wall, then you might have a chance of getting it to stick. Wear a foil hat and gloves and be safe.
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You may jest but with the probes each side and the lower conductivity of the stainless steel I do wonder and leaning on the side it might work
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A small TIG weld spot without filler works great on such home appliances (I know that for a fact 
)
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wonder if there is anything of value here.
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Mine keeps blowing fuses and was told to do a diode test on all the bits. I don’t know what I’m doing and in diode mode on the fets I’ll only get OL (open circuit) which it should be, if touching the center prong on the fet and otherwise it’s a closed circuit. Is that normal?
Any advice on what to do before I give it another shot and possibly blow up another fuse?
Also learned there’s 300 amp fuses and there’s 300 amp slow fuses
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Time delay and fast acting.
a fuse protects against short circuit and overload conditions
Time delay are used for things like motors that have a huge startup load
It’s not as simple as 300a
As you can see from this table a 315a rated fuse can take 1000a for just over 12 seconds (the tables is of a BS88 fuse it’s the uk general purpose fuse)
This is the BS88 time delay table.
315a fuse can take 1000a for 40 seconds
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Agreed.
These current vs trip time (I2T) tables are critical for choosing the right fuse for the application. Especially with this much energy involved.
The fuse’s DC voltage rating (for this application) and current interrupt rating are critical too as they determine whether the fuse can actually stop the current from flowing when the fuse blows.
Check these diodes, if they are closed circuit you need to replace them.
They blow fuses because current leaks through them while welding
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More instructions left unread and I’d cut my battery leads way down assuming that’s good always,nor so with the kweld and it needs to build resistance with those wires or too much current flows. Learning the hard way. Lengthened them and back at it.
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eeek. at first i thought they were all bare. is that a new cell or you rewrapped?
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New 50E cells from nkon, idk why they are clear tho
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I’m getting some issues with my K-Weld not detecting a shorted pedal on start or tapping the pedal in manual, suggestions?
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go auto. thats all i know
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Auto doesn’t always detect
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What u mean by detect? U apply the electrodes to the welding material and it doesn’t recognize it?
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