Default, did not mess with the throttle curve at all. Board’s all bolted up so i’ll connect to the app and send some screenshots.
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You using a puck? Be sure to be running input connfig in mode 3(sorry to be captain obvious, but a few have had this issue)
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Fucking hell that’s gorgeous!
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This actually isnt the case for this kit. They are designed to be soldered in.
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Dude, fuckin excellent work as always 
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Thanks @BenjaminF!
Oh, here’s a pic of the internals before I added the window seal gasket around and sealed it up
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Okay, Lunacycle antispark switch went poopy on me and would not turn off, swapped to a spare fatboy antispark and it would turn on and off, but would automatically turn on and stay on if I leave it for a few seconds.
I just purchased a flipsky 200A enhanced switch, people have said it’s solid so a proper ride will have to wait till then.
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Where did you get this connector? If it was from a place like Amazon or Hobbyking you should unshrink wrap it ASAP and check the solder. These were not made with esk8 in mind.
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I made the connector, this one’s made with esk8 in mind 
I used a 20 AWG wire that i stripped and wrapped it around the connectors, then flood it with solder.
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All I needed to hear haha. You did such a clean job I thought it was store bought!
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Antispark came and fixed it up! The button is ugly tho. Anyone successfully replaced the button on the antispark? Its a 4 pin momentary button.
I changed to 5.3 firmware thinking it might be what’s causing the weak acceleration and braking, but same thing. I wonder what’s causing it… the ESC?? Can’t be.
My settings are
100A
-100A
80A (40A per side)
-15A regen
Oh hey, it stands on its own with 107s.
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surely any 4pin mom button would work? as long as u have the correct voltage rating, but they are usually 5v which is common af
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Not sure. The buttons I have might be 12v or higher. I never got the hang with changing out buttons, they all seem to have different wiring schematics and I always get paranoid when wiring up a new one
This is the back of the flipsky button
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I think it’s gotta be a combination of your low battery regen and 1:2 gear ratio. You can do -20A per side on that battery imho. Better safe than sorry.
And yeah, get some logger so that you can see what’s actually limiting you 
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Okay, after a first test ride which was cut short due to a rain attack, i think i got the settings figured out. I ran 5.3 firmware and it seems to accelerate and brake okay now. I set my motor max and brake to 110A and -110A however, regen is still at -15. On VESC tool it shows my estimated range is 30km however, which is really weird for a 12s4p 30Q pack.
Correct me if i’m wrong, when putting the aH of the battery pack, it’s the aH per cell, or is it the whole pack? I input 12 for battery cell count, and 3000mAH for 30Q.
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Whole pack. If there’s no field for p-group count, how else could vesc tool figure out your pack size? Anyway, at 10A discharge it looks like 2.55Ah is the capacity of 30Qs, so you could enter like 10200mAh there.
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Finally got a good ride in. I think the Spiral Bevel drivetrain is one of the smoothest drivetrains I’ve ever ridden. Fairly close to @avX herringbone gear drive. It’s so quiet and smooth, I love it. However because of its 20 : 40 gear ratio its not the most efficient of all my builds. I did a 15km ride and it drained 35%.
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Linny rocks again 
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For 20s or the reg 200a?