Continuing on the car theme, the Bullitt color scheme looks great if you can get that pearlescent dark green right. Plus it’s already got the black and chrome with a tiny bit of red accent.
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British racing green
This build is going to be epic, just started my Evo rebuild. Subbed.
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Clearance check. Seems good, the gearbox might touch the side of the deck but that’s on a fuuuuuuull lean. I’ll probably add a little riser. I do have a pair of hammocks but I’ll see if its needed or not, that is if enclosure clearance to the ground is bad.
Also for the battery, a 12s4p 30q. Yea it’ll probably be the last 30q pack I’ll build. Just finishing what remaining cells I have. Using the DRI pcb. Wow that’s a lot of space left
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With the remainder of my 30qs, a 12s4p will emerge. Siliconed the P groups. Gonna build with the DRI PCB for the first time soon, exciting!
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Fishpaper time. Wrapping all 12 groups
Also started a bit of soldering on the PCB. The bush terminals were alright, but the 13 pin connector was so tiny I had to use my phone and zoom in and look from its screen.
Here are the p groups. Gonna start welding tomorrow.
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@Linny the body work is flawless
What do you use to fill your holes?
(Epoxy resin filler maybe) 
Love this build your talents and creativity is so good
I think you have to go red on the deck or maybe a Rasta vibe
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Thanks! I used fiberglass cloth that I pulled apart so it’s all fuzzy like a furball, then I dip it in resin and stuff it in the hole. I did put a layer of packing tape below before I did so, so it wouldn’t fall out.
Thanks for the design theme idea! I’ll keep that in mind. Still undecided on theme and color scheme
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More work on the 12s4p pack.
THE @DRI PCB kit is such a beautiful thing. Look! No wires! Well, not entirely but it cuts down the tangleness by so much. I also made sure to fishpaper the crap out of every edge. Including the bottom of the PCB
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Let’s work on some other stuff now.
I popped open the TORQUE6 ESC and took a look inside just to see if the solder joints are alright, they are.
I have one of those Lunacycle antispark switches, but without a button. Anyone know of a 12mm latching switch that i can buy from, let me know!
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Providing you’re not in a rush; this, this, or this will do you fine; just cosmetic differences between them.
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We’re getting close. Painting up the enclosure. And yes I am still undecided on a paint scheme for the deck. Sigh…
What’s left? Gotta get the BN 220s and some good Abec core wheels. I do have spare bergs but the top speed might be insane. Would be fun but I’d stick to urethane for its main wheel
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And the motors are here.
Wait, sensor wires? 3mm keyway? What the
Yes, these are the unobtainable custom SK3s with sensors and 3mm keyways. Courtesy of @BillGordon for letting me steal them. Now to sleeve them up.
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Assembling the motor to the red plate. It looks fuckin beautiful. Yes, 638 retaining compound is on the side to secure the pinion to the shaft
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2 unobtainium in 1 pic 
such luxury
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Ok, I’m left with the deck to spray and wheels, oh and also the trucks. Im getting BN 220s but I’m waiting for his short hangars to be in stock.
Hey… pst @Boardnamics
Also, wheels wise I’m looking at the momentum wheels as they seem promising. I can’t think of any other abec core wheel except for clouds or 107s, but yuck. We’ll see how it goes, I’m down to use a temporary wheel till I get my hands on the momentum wheels.
Also, enclosure is done.
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Hey linny, hows arcboards going?
I see one of their hangers and rember the tkrkingpins or how did you call those things 
and all those integrated decks, however ive never seen one in the wild. Would love to see though.
And also those sexy red geardrives!
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Things at Arcboards are a bit stagnant I’d say. The country just started a lockdown again due to more rising cases of the virus, but I’ve been doing ‘stress tests’ of some components that I can’t reveal for now.
The unique kingpin design is cool, but it has its flaws, so it’ll be reworked a bit. I would like to use them in a build at one point!
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Boardnamics 220 trucks are here.
Sides fit well, but the curve has a bit of gap. Gonna fill it up and use longer set screws
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A good way to close the gaps between hanger and clamp is just staking nickel pieces in there. Works best for clamps but I don’t really know about setscrews…
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