man that looks fun!
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I thought the measurement is an easy task but it ain’t 
- at the tip 23,3 cm / 9,173228 inch
- after bracket of bindings 22,9 cm / 9,015748 inch
- in the middle of bindings 22,3 cm / 8,779528 inch
- in the middle of the deck 21,7 cm / 8,543307 inch
Now we know why 
Regarding graphics, due to the concave of the deck the width is a tad more or less when following the shape, I measured the width in a straight line.
But for example when following the shape in the middle of the deck (for graphics) I get this measurements:
-
on top 21,1 cm / 8,307087 inch
-
on bottom 21,8 cm / 8,582677 inch
If you need more measurements let me know 
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Oh wow, thank you for going through that effort! I couldn’t ask for a better answer.
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Just wanted to remove the can and then this happened…
WTF!
After recovery of the shock I was able to push the stator out without damage and remove the shaft as well.
The front motor bearing is totally fucked up and needs replacement. I tried to remove it with a lot of force but that bearing is stuck. I’m afraid it’s glued, need to think about how to insulate the wires before heating the bearing with a blow torch.
Also I realized that the shaft has only 1 flat spot but it should be 2 for the 2 bolts. No wonder that the shaft was moving sideways. I’ll dremel the missing flatspot and try to glue the stator back to the motor plate. Lat’s see.
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How it the smaller bearing held? there is a tube press fit with the bearing on it? From the looks it did not break, it’s how it’s (badly) designed split in the middle
I have two of these in the mail, since I will have to remove the stator, glad that you showed that’s easy to do 
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The bearing in the red motor plate is definitely glued, tried to hammer it out with brutal force, no chance. The 2 rear bearings seems fine.
What do you exactly mean?
For science? Or because of the windings? Just curious why…
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Most motors have the tube that the stator sits on going all the way through, not a short one like this, I imagined it would have another piece for the bearing to sit, not that it would sit inside the stator itself
For science in building my direct drive
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Ah thanks, got it 
There is this aluminium spacer to close the gap between the tube and the rear bearings
good luck!
I would heat the motor plate before trying to remove the stator because it’s glued (or at least should be).
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So it’s slight less bad design
Will definitely do that
One thing that will definitely make easier is that they have the sensor PCB on the same side that the phase wires exit
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are those dickyho motors?
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Well I didn’t want to mention it but yes they are 
I wouldn’t recommend them because of varoius reasons, windings as wires, moving shafts, no retaining ring, slightly damaged magnets…
But to talk positive, the power and sound of the motors are good.
I also ordered 6384 motors and I hate/love them.
Loose windings 
No retaining ring and askew glued magnets 
Battle hardened them
The power from this motors is great but they sound sooooooooo awful, hard to describe. They whistle and howl like an airplane even when free coasting. They are loud as hell, people turn around from a far distance. Started to use both earbuds for listening to music instead of one. I can still hear the motors howling 
.
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I have the same problem with mine when they hit a certain speed. I Think its a bearing problem🤷♂️
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I dont think its a bearing problem… changed the bearings and they still sound like a turbine 
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Same problem here
I just tell people its my turbocharger 
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@yelnats8j and @Amonada I’m sorry for you but also good 2 know that the original motors sound the same. I was afraid it was the battle hardening which made them sound like a whistle on steroids.
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Too much work the last days but found some time to (hopefully) fix the motor.
With a bit heat of the small blow torch I could remove the front bearing. The 3 bearings used in this motor are 6800zz (=61800z) 10x19x5mm. Ordered some new…
Glued the stator to the motor plate with Loctite 638. It’s not a tight fit at all, it was very easy to slide the stator back so maybe the original glue was too thin. Also I’ve dremeled the second flatspot on the shaft.
Then glued the shaft back to the can
Then I crushed the outer rear bearing 
At least I’ve ordered 10 new bearings so no problem
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It seems the motor I got is a slightly improved version, the center tube in one piece and goes almost all the way through the stator, the smaller bearings are inside it
Also the can has a small lip to prevent the magnets from slipping out
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Sounds good, do they also have phase wires instead of windings outside of the motor?
Yeah, unfortunately, and magnets apparently glued with regular epoxy
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This is no more a Trampa lightweight build so I made a new thread
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