Oh please no and yes I have this beautiful motors in 6384 200kv
Exquisite loose windings 
Perfect spacing between magnets
and these motors are loud!
After destroying too much so called “premium motors” I also ordered cheap ones. They send it via DHL so I had to pay customs plus other fees. In the end I had shitty motors for the price of a “premium” motor
Thanks for feedback, well ordering with dhl is never good, especially if customs tax might hit you.
I remember seeing these pictures just couldnt link these to the same motor.
Actually there are 2 can designs for these, if not even 3, if we count the flipsky one with side openings on the can.
I think these 4 hole ones are shitty indeed.
The motor I have on hand has multiple openings and resemble something maytech offered a while ago and longhairedboy might have had in a few batches long time ago.
Speaking about motors, from what ive seen here and elsewhere (endless sphere)
Flispky seems to have really shitty ones even if they charge quite a bit more than others… If im not mistaken endlessphere guy received seized motor right from the flipsky
This one’s the 120kv one, though wiring look doesnt convince me and I would think 2-3-4x times before ordering, otherwise seems very much like what u have.
‘China motor market’ … havent ordered from him but has multiple options, some looks like cheapest there is, something like hobbyking had a while ago…
Im not sure what bioboards has but maybe they have something better?
Otherwise seems like custom batch is the only way to go then, with factory where there is good quality control and not - slap and sell
also they don’t move at all
This tree was unfriendly, I wanted to give him a high five but he fooled me.
True but I didn’t. Was ordering from dickyho ebay store and paid for standard parcel (so no tax). Some days later I’ve also ordered the beautiful 6364 motors I’ve used on the Jumpinator.
Some days later he sent me DHL tracking code 
I asked him why beause I don’t want DHL and pay tax, I payed standard parcel. He told me above 2kg he can only send via DHL 
However it took over 1 week and many many e-mails and phone calls until DHL released my parcel. They wanted every day new shit like the exact data sheet of the motors or then they didn’t accept even the third receipt which dickyho sent me because “wrong tax number” or whatever, then something else bla bla…
In the end it was about 150€ if I remember right. Never ever again.
I would check for loose windings and magnets. There were many reports where this motors didn’t survive the first ride.
Ok thanks for warnings, even though bad batch number is high I suspect these should work ok in 60% of cases…
Otherwise I feel bad for everyone who has chinese emtb with these motors, as it seems some problems are inevitable with these motors.
Well visually inspecting from outside turnigy sk3 had more loose looking strands than these but dont have any pictures at hand to compare
Also useful info about dickyho experience, seems lile really bad handling of situation from sellers side…
Yeh these delivery agents charge top notch… offer to manage customs just for a “small” fee.
Once when system wasnt as good, I even had to drive to capital to get my package as they didnt release it
Then different courier delivered my nkon batteries while they were literally laying on his delivery van ground, soft package being slightly mushed and dirty… (it was passenger side ground not cargo tray)
From pics it’s hard to tell if the windings are loose. They are glued with transparent I guess epoxy.
Just as an example this looks loose but it is not. I found loose windings just beside but not these which stick out
The only way to find loose windings (or at least how I do it) is with a toothpick. I try to wiggle/move every strand I can reach.
Now some updates, actually the poor board looks like this waiting for attention
Meanwhile I found the reason for the broken hall sensor, the wire ripped off (during burn outs)
No idea how this happened, it’s quite a piece of missing wire when you compare the yellow cable to the other motor.
Anyway R.I.P.
I switch to 149kv Maytech’s which I had at home. I battle hardened them to have them longer than just a few weeks.
I had several Maytech’s with internal shorts so it was important to secure the cables inside and outside that they can’t move.
I needed new helicals with 8mm bore.which I received and glued last week.
I want to ride I mean jump again within the next days. Need to solder the motor wires and sensor extensions first.
I also have to think about improvements, the Fsescs need some cooling otherwise they run hot within minutes when it’s getting warmer. Also the 5Ah Lipo sucks, it’s light and perfect for jumping but I forgot that I need to ride to the location where I jump first 
Usually I have to walk home because of empty battery.
Oops, one month later but finally I had my first ride today after a while.
I filed and sanded the hanger to hopefully prevent mount shifting
Then installed cable management and strain relief mounted to the baseplate.
I have mixed feelings about the ride. The board is really lame compared to my regular MTB. Now I use the same motors on both builds but 50A motor amps vs. 100A is like day and night. But I can’t pull more amps with the Fsesc’s 4.12.
Very strange is that I have massive huuuuuge power in reverse (current hyst mode) but not forward. I remember @glyphiks had similar problems with FW5 but now I realize the same issue with FW3.65. When I full throttle forward from standstill nothing dramatic happens but in reverse the beast is hard to tame. Burnouts for seconds during acceleration like a rocket, I love it!!! But why is this not possible forward? Very strange 
The other thing is the deck, it is sooo stiff. I was jumping quite high in skate park and the impacts on flat concrete were massive. I want to try the medium Bro deck for jumping and feel the difference.
The weight of the board with the 6374 motors is 13kg (28.7lb) now , before with 6364 motors it was12.6kg (27.8lb).
I still have the same problem! I would love to know what is happening there, it is super frustrating
It would seem that it has to do with the current mode for some reason.
If it’s not raining tomorrow I gonna shoot a video “full throttle forward vs. reverse” plus record log files to see what’s going on especially with the amp flows.
Fuck yeah dude, that would be awesome! Good luck!
Could you swap the motors over into the opposing mounts so the reverse mode actually goes forward? Then you get that “launch mode” in forward instead of reverse. Or would that still be too much to handle?
Forgive my laziness, can’t be bothered to read your whole thread to find out the answer, but are you still using dual Unity escs in your build or are you on Flipsky now too?
Is this something that’s limited to non-vesc based escs, or standard across all escs/vescs with this firmware?
@rich and @glyphiks how are the ramping times set? This could be the cause of the poor forward performance
By default it is 0.9 s ramping up and 0.3 s ramping down, so when accelerating forward would be tame but the brake responsive, and the contrary should happen in reverse
And having the current limits lower on this build only helps that. With 50 A set, it will take 0.9 seconds to ramp from 0 to 50 A, but to reach the same torque with 100 A motor set it would take only 0.45 s
My ramping is set to 0.1 both ways. It doesnt make a difference. Its a distinct lack of torque moving forward, i don’t think its a ramping thing.
@HarryForks im still running dual unities… #fuckflipsky
Haha crazy idea, if I could rotate the throttle on the remote 180° it would be sick (which I can’t).
I never tried car esc’s but in reverse it feels like one
Both motors have inverted motor direction. I could swap 2 phase wires and see if it makes any difference.
0.1 for acceleration and braking 
(checked it just to be sure)
Here my other lame settings each Fsesc, it’s not even 50A :
Motor: 45A
Brake: -40A
Batt max: 45A
Batt regen: -15A
I meant what if you leave all settings the same, but remove the left motor and put it on the right mount, and the right motor on the left mount. So that reverse is forward and forward is reverse…
Disclaimer: If you hurt yourself, ^this wasn’t my idea! 
Give the phase wire swap a go, you never know. And, of course, for science!
Edit: I see what you mean about the throttle direction. But still, could be fun for a laugh, so you riding with that power in your dominant direction, instead of switch. (Or is your switch riding as good as your normal direction?)
Its not the motors, phase wires or any hardware.
I have reversed everything and tried with the same results. Its a software issue.
The only thing I had left to try was to reverse the input on my remote to see if it was an input problem. But the fact that you are seeing the same problem confirms to me that this is in the software
Ok so more time to invest my time in other things now 
It’s time for the Bro, started to disassemble the board already.
Oops the wood broke
I have more news, ordered a small kicker and should receive it this or next week, I’m very curious
I have to attach wheels so I can tow it behind me when searching spots 
. It would be great to have a bigger portable (or better foldable) one as well. But the existing ramps cost way too much e.g. 500€ for a Hopper. I guess it’s DIY in the end.
The problem with jumping is that mostly the distance between (natural) kicker and landing zone is not ideal. The great thing with a portable kicker is that you can position it in front of a natural askew landing zone and adjust the distance according to speed. Landing on flat sucks at higher jumps, I need proper landing zones.
Not even close but I want to improve it to jump off switch for 180’s. Up to now I can’t jump fakie, here the video evidence. Also you can see an unintended reverse burnout…
