My early eLofty drivetrain uses a traditional two bearing setup. Maybe that’s why it’s still going strong, Shaft tolerances were always dogshit though. The inner bearing gets stuck when I swap wheels.
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Loctite 222 or 242 for the hub bolts do you think?
I have a different recommendation based on my experience. The non-permanent loctite does not seem strong enough to prevent the bolts from loosening off. I don’t think you want to mess with permanent loctite. The heating process to unlock the threads is tricky.
What I did was to insert a lock washer underneath the bolt head. I tiried conventional lock washers and external tooth lock washers. They both seem to work equally well. Conventional lock washers are easier to find.
In my experience, if you use the lock washer, then you don’t need any loctite.
Hey, you never posted pictures of your laser cut spacers.
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A little video of direct drive maintenance tips that includes the lock washer modification.
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Just picked them up Monday. I need to clean up a couple spots with some fine grit paper and will post shots soon. Thanks for the feedback on the Loctite.
eLofty Kegel Spacer for Janux Hubs
This appears to be a success! While I have not run these spacers yet, I have mounted them and things look good.
Just a review
- 3/16 Aluminum plate
- Laser cut to specifications
- 65mm OD
- 39mm ID
- 5.15mm holes
- 6mm between OD and outside of bolt hole
- 6 holes equidistant
- Finished product ~24g each
- 16mm M5 black oxide socket head bolts (up from the stock 10mm)
Fit and finish
Here are the adapters. The top one is finished while the bottom adapter is as the parts arrived from the laser cutter (actually slightly polished).
You should be able to see the difference in the grain of the screw holes, the surface, and the ID.
Here is the spacer fitted to the motor (it’s a nice tight fit after some time with fine grit sandpaper):
This shot shows both the adapter after having been lightly bolted down and (more importantly) shows the now flush fit of the axle step down:
Finally, we put the hub onto the adapter and viola!- a nice close fit between the adapter and the hub. The spacer therefore allows for use of both 608 bearings in the Janux hubs.
Points to consider
While my dimensions for the spacer were correct, I did not take the kerf of the cutting laser into account (which is slightly angled). As such, the dimensions of the cuts on one side of the spacer are ever so slightly wider than the other side of the part. This resulted in a fit which was slightly too tight on one side of the spacer. After some quality time with files and sandpaper, the spacer provided a nice tight fit to both the motor fitment ring and the adapter bolts.
My concern above about the motor fitment ring is now moot. The bolt hole tolerances in the adapter are tight enough to self align with the bolt holes, which means the motor fitment ring is indeed vestigial.
I thought about anodizing the spacer but I rather like the color of the raw aluminum and how it contrasts with the adjacent parts.
I also thought about sanding the OD, but the ribbed pattern left by the laser is also pretty attractive to me.
Pending Question
My question above about Loctite was meant for the hub bolts and not really the adapter bolts. Nonetheless, based on feedback from @pkasanda - I’ll be adding additional lock washers to the adapter bolts. Any word on what to use for the hub bolts? With the hubs being made out of aluminum, I’m concerned that lock washers would damage the surface.
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Nice Job.
So I guess you were wondering if you should put locktite on the four bolts that hold the split rim together.
While knowing nothing about a subject rarely stops me from giving advice 
…
I think the right thing to do in this case is to have you ask the rim manufacturer.
I think the motor fitment ring has a taper. This may have made the fit a little tricky.
Always wear a professional grade automotive paint mask when you do any work that creates aluminum dust or filings. Aluminum dust is something that you do not want to inhale.
I have good result with Loctite 242, actually used it exclusively on all my builds.
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hey @love2scoot
You should put some 242 on the adapter bolts also. I just did some maintenance on mine and the adapter bolts had loosened on one side despite my lock washers. I’m switching to 242, discarding the lock washers.
Do the new 60 KV DD perform better than the 75 KV with 6-8 inch pneumatics and Janux hubs? Or still better not to try this combination?
No, I wouldn’t recommend it. 4wd only imo.
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I ride (for a year now) 6" pneumatics with 58KV china DD (rear only) and it works fine for me. So my suggestion would be to get a single set and get a feel for it, if it feels underpowered get another set and make it 4wd.
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I guess you are a much lighter rider than me? I weigh around 100 kg (220 lbs).
Concerning the 4WD setup: do you actually need 2 batteries and 4 VESCs for that?
Nope, just 2 dual Vesc (4 singles) and one battery.
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Thanks. And how do you connect a single battery to 2 dual VESCs?
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You will need a parallel harness. You connect the main portion (I don’t know the correct term) into the battery and then the other two ends will split to go into both your escs.
Something like this
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Thanks. Just realized that it is exactly what I do with 2 non-dual VESCs i.e. 2 single VESCs.
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