oh, and did I mention, that the holes in the deck are not precisely drilled? and that there were no holes for the dogbones? and that the front and back holes offset is different? (on one side, the truck baseplate peeks before the edge of the board, on the other its hidden)
currently waiting for the battery. I’ve temporarily used 12S prototype case with the smaller ubox. at least I can test the mechanics.
top speed is a miserable 30kph, but its hella strong. unfortunatelly you cannot really notice it, as you reach top speed sooner than you feel the joy. it’s nice to have the sensors for once. HFI is cool and shit, but its still a hack compared to the sensors
I thought I’ll keep the bindings from the previous board. but they are noisy. after upgradint from chains, I finally notice the ratteling of the buckle I dont know what might be good. I’ve previosly had the MBS F5, but I didn’t feel good in that.
what’s the issue there? I want it for daily commuting in traffic, however that sometimes borderlines with racing when I hurry too much
exactly for now it’s on 12s with 75v ubox. once the new battery arrives it will be 22s with 100v ubox. I suppose I didn’t make a mistake in those voltages?
I also got the pinnions for 1:4 ratio, however that will require pressing out the current pinions which is sometning I’m not looking forward. if there is not much speed in the end, I might need to do it regardless
here it the calc of the final configuration on 22s with 1:5. I suppose 59kph is sufficient for me at the moment. so I’d rather put all the remaining power to torque.
ubox is not a very good 100V controller, which is really only good for 18S
anything over with regen and you risk blowing it, though you could technically stretch it on 20S, but i’d only do that on say a maker x or stormcore maybe
if you turn regen braking off, only then can you run 22s, but of course spintend won’t tell you that. and of course you can’t turn regen off on esk8 because an alternative braking solution is extremely rare and obscure
it is plagued with issues and is (in a lot of eyes) very temperamental even in normal working condition
none that will do 22s, you’re better working down to 20S to prevent blowing your esc
i’m no expert on the fuckies of escs, but i do know that voltage spikes can very easily go past the limit if you don’t allow enough headroom to account for them. (eg why a lot of 60V controllers rste to only 12S and 100V controllers rate to mainly 18S.)
Spikes may peak past 100V in such a short amount of time that the controller can’t detect it and bam
now you got a board that is no longer functioning and may or may not be throwing you onto the lovely canvas of road
22S is so far quite nice. and quiet it is. love the GD. the trucks and rims are so ballin. this finally looks like the “grownup” board.
running
abs max current 150A
motor/battery 100/-65A
hyst mode, reverse erpm 5000
sensored
25PSI pressure
the consumption is quite horrific - ~28Wh/km. I’ve been getting 23 on it when It was just on 12s. ~22 on previuous boards
so its about 40km (with slightly undercharged battery) at ~55kph. I’m still affraid to push it. I’d like to measure and test the powercurves experimentally, not with my health and body
its a great board as is, but I wan’t to get to the finish line
clean it - it should be also nice to look at
find out what rattles inside - I suspect the spare xt90 to the battery
connect the “always-on” part of the rear light
possibly make better mount for the rear light
make mount for front light
connect ennoid and metrPro without corrupting stability
make the charger more silent by swapping fans to two 120mm
I dont know what might be good. I’ve previosly had the MBS F5, but I didn’t feel good in that.
for now it’s on 12s with 75v ubox. once the new battery arrives it will be 22s with 100v ubox. I suppose I didn’t make a mistake in those voltages?
