@mmaner, Well, in case I will find a workshop and an arbor press to help me do the job, do you think I can re-thread from 9.525 to 8 ? I mean it’s not like going down from 12 to 8, I will still have thread marks of the “old” 9.525 threading, won’t that be a problem ? (sorry if I’m asking stupid questions, my engineering machinery skills are limited 
…)
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If you go to a shop, they can heat up the hanger a bit and then you cool the axle with ice water. That will help to get the axle out.
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Got you ! thanks ! I will give it a try!
It’s definitely possible to do, if you have access to a machine shop even better.
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@mmaner, done!
In a lathe shop, without even taking out the axles, I hope the strength will be good enough. The tolerance however is a bit loose (very very little). I have 2 more trucks I told him to make with higher tolerance hopefully will be better.
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Looks good, have fun 
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Your experience is right, with this Trampa specific pulley, i tried new set of wheels. If the bolts are tightened too hard, the core get affected and the bearings can slip eliminating any pressure of the core on them. Closing the bolts not too tight while adding loctite does seem like the right way so that the core will still have pressure on the bearings. However, it seems like a flaw, don’t u think ?
It’s soft plastic and there are 6 bolts…
There is no need for pressure, just elimination of the play.
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Wow! Thanks!, that’s pretty much gold. Wasn’t aware of the existence of this :(, very cool and detailed.
HQ, manuals…
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sorry to revive an old thread, but does someone sourced a proper spacer or a tube i could cut ? i don’t have acces to a lathe
Just use shim stock.
One wrap of .009" thick would do it, or an appropriate larger number of wraps of thinner stock.
Without a lathe or the ability to get a machinist who does have a lathe to do it, that’s really the only option.
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I just used R6 bearings on amazon and used a 1/4 inch bolt and nut to seat the bearings after using a blow dryer. Probs could have just used the hangar and blow dryer but bolt seemed to require less force
Is that hub aluminium or plastic ?
Oh, thank you, i had no idea what shim stock were
It’s plastic. No way you could fit a 22.225mm bearing in a 22mm hole if it was aluminum.
In fact, I’ll be interested to see if the plastic holds up without cracking over time.
No worries. It’s a kind of obscure thing unless you run across it - It’s pretty common in the industrial/maintenance/machining world.
Be careful, metal shim stock is thin enough to be very sharp, and will cut you badly if you’re not expecting it. Paper cuts have nothing on this stuff.
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I think the degree to which I heated(f***ing hot but not to any melting point) it actually reformed the cavity to accommodate the larger bearing as it cooled, holds snug but removable by hand, old 608 bearings are easily slid into and out of the slot, much like my rockstar 2 hubs. Bearings fall out without the nut clamping it against the wheel hub, but these TBs aren’t that loose
Also very thankful I know know what shim stock is and can use this knowledge to solve future problems
Ok, so i finally found some 0.009" shims. But they are harden steal, is there a way i could perfectly coil them ? I tryed heating it with a blowtorch, but it didn’t help much
I would just cut a piece of about the right length, roll it around a pencil or something to give it a bit of a curve, and shove it in. It doesn’t have to be perfectly rolled, just enough to assemble. The bearing and axle will constrain it once assembled.
You can probably anneal it to some degree, the trick is to cool it down very slowly. If you cool it fast, it will harden rather than soften.