Nah, you can totally chuck the wheels. I’ve done it before to shave some urethane off the pulley side of mine a while back when I was building my first board. You just have to not crank down too hard, and check the core with an indicator before you start cutting to make sure it’s not wobbling all over the place.
(Wouldn’t be a good idea if the core was metal, too much cutting forces. But plastic is fine, it cuts like butter.)
Abec 1 though. That feels like a lot of extra resistance am I right?
I don’t really remember, I didn’t user them long. Wasnt a fan of ats trucks.
The abec number is just a measure of the mechanical tolerances of the bearing. Lower abec numbers are looser internally, and looser tolerances for fit into machinery. The main determining factor of rolling resistance in bearings in skateboarding is the viscosity of the oil/grease in them.
Well, @MysticalDork, @mmaner I managed to get the job done , I took it to a lathe shop and he managed to widen the holes (around 10$ cost) for me in those 4 wheels. Thanks ! 
Awesome, glad to hear it
Update after few dozens of miles …
The cores of the rear wheels (with the pullies) broke, the holes got slightly wider and the wheels started to be very wobbly 
,
so the procedure didn’t go so well … I’m pretty fucked up with these axles, they were expensive and my whole setup and motor mounts are based on them …
Not sure of what to do next … Probably at some point I’ll change the trucks to normal 8mm axles and not some craziness imperial non standard @Trampa measurements
I may try to insert the R6-2RS bearings to other wheels (perhaps stickies) but I may heart them as well
This is the price and pain of my own design selection mistakes (mostly going with 12fifties trucks), I was looking for wide street trucks.
If anyone got a suggestion of wide trucks, around 11 - 12" , with high mounts availability such as Caliber, I would highly appreciate that.
That’s not normal. How tight was the belt?
Also how tight was the pulley mount?
Thanks for responding. Normal belt tension I guess. The problem was that I had to modify the wheels to accommodate the bearings, that’s the bigger issue I guess. Do u know if abec11 wheels will take these bearings or i’m gonna kill another set of wheels ? I have also stickies on the way from u guys but I prefer a bigger diameter wheel size.
I lathed and rethreaded some 12mm axles down to 8mm a couple of weeks ago, it’s definately doable.
In my experience the tension on the 6 pulley mount bolts doesn’t want to be a lot. Squeezing them sideways puts a lot of pressure on the core. 6 bolts can create plenty of pressure.
I usually take 3 bolts only, tighten them only slightly and check for round spinning. Then I ad loctite to the other 3 bolts and feed them in by hand. Finally a half turn with a tool.
We mount the R6RS with a simple bearing press.
You can also slide wheel and bearing onto the truck and then use the wheel nut to wind in the bearings.
Interesting ! It came out right ? U think I can go also from 9.525 to 8 ?
They are perfect. I removed the axles, lathed them to 8mm and then rethreaded to 5/16. I don’t see any reason why you couldn’t go from 9.25 to 8mm.
The entire reason I did this was to be able to use thane on MTB trucks without modifying the wheels or having to use sub-standard bearings. There are many more high quality 8mm ID bearing options than 12mm ID bearings.
Perhaps that goes better on stickies , … but for other flywheels cores I think that they do not take this very well. It puts way too much stress trying to press the bearing into the core because of the 0.22mm difference. I do hear you regarding the 6 bolts pressure. I will also try to relax that down on my second attempt. Not sure which way I will go though … perhaps what @mmaner suggests of converting the axles to 8mm and that’s it. Also, perhaps adding pulley idlers to lower the tension on the belts can help as well. Or … also changing to a wheel pulley that got a bearing support may help to prevent the wheels going sideways like you mentioned from the belt tension, but sadly Trampa got no such.
Anyhow, that’s a lot of directions I need to try and investigate …
I think your likely issue was the oversized bearings. I like my bearings to be press-fit, but you shouldn’t have to press to hard. I doubt the amount of bolts had anything to do with it. Pull the axles and lath them down, that should resolve your issue.
Yeah, they are removable. Remove the grub screws. Get a piece of steal tube roughly the ID of the axle and cut the length to just below the threads. Find some washers that have roughly the same ID as the axle. Put the tube over the axle, put a washer over the tube and turn the nut on. use a wrench to slowly crank down on the nut, this will slowly pull the axle from the hanger.
You may need to sue some heat, you will also likely need to secure the hanger in a vise. wrap a rag around it and put a couple of pieces of wood on the sides. This will keep the hanger from being marred by the vice.
On 2 of my axles, the threads stripped out before I had the axle all the way removed, I had to rethread them to get the axle out, then rethread them again after I had the axle lathed to 8mm. I don’t know if it was an issue with the nut or the axle material. After the 1st one I switched to titanium nylok nuts, it still happened a second time. Something to be aware of, so go slow.
Wow, that’s a detailed explanation Many thanks ! however - somehow may be too complicated for me 
Hammer won’t do ? perhaps with the help of heating ?
Pressed in, oversized axle in undersized hole.
Not an easy job!
No, you need to pull it out bu using a tube and washers against the hanger, slowly tightening the nut down until the axle pops out. Putting it back in is ease. I used an arbor press, but you could just as easily use a drill press. You almost can’t put them in other than perfectly straight.
