Congrats on your podium, Kenny!
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Always possible, but it will have to be customed for those who want it and will probably cost extra. Alternatively, you could it to a machinist and have the pinion lathed to 10mm, with a 3mm keyway.
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I had no idea about this ty for sharing
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Thank you @deucesdown and @avX!
If i knew a guy that would be easy but where i live you don’t have those sort of things. If it is an issue in the future i will pm you @avX and see what can be done 
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Haha I just watched the video and he only cuts the keyway into the pulley. No shaft mangling. 5/10 for me lol.
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Also just in case if you plan to use the 6396s from the recent group buy, it might not fit because the mount to mount distance for the motors are not long enough.
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I have 6384 on handHey y’all, just wanted to post a PSA/review here:
I have been experiencing what I thought were VESC issues on my build for several weeks now, and have been trying to debug what was going on, and the symptoms made no sense. I purchased the @Avx MK2 gear drive with the new open can motors from @Haggyboard.Timo and built the whole drivetrain (super easy, nice kit!). When I went to configure my VESCs, I would get no problems at all configuring both motors as single drive, but as soon as I did anything that ran both motors at once, everything would go wrong.
Over in the FW4.1 thread, @DerelictRobot detailed the issues we were seeing, and what he and I had done to try to debug in this post:
We suspected that it was a CAN issue of some sort, but finally I figured it out, detailed here:
Turned out, two of the motor bolts that came with my kit (I cant remember if they were with the motors or the gear drives) were protruding too far into the motor can and shorting against the stator. I removed the bolts, ground them down a bit, and put them back in, and now things seem to be working (though I will be keeping an eye on it).
Just wanted to point this out in case anyone else experiences anything similar with the gear drive kit or these motors!
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I think the motor windings may have been damaged because of this, and it is causing more problems. More testing will be done to determine this. Frank also thinks my VESCs may be damaged because of this. We will see.
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My gear drives don’t use m4 screws, it’s either m3, m5 or m8s, so it shouldn’t be from the gear drive kit. I think Timo may have supplied those screws? I’m not too sure. Has Timo contacted you about this?
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Not sure if you understand the context of this, if your bolts shorted against the copper in the motor it means the coating on the copper is damaged, if two or more strands of copper connect that dsnt have the isolating coating you will definatly get a short again in the motor. Recoat where ever the bolts dug down or you might end up frying more stuff.
If the vescs still works now I wouldnt be too worried. They usually toss the classic DRV error if damaged beyond operation point.
Read up on what a lenz law/ wire is, cause they’re in your motors 
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It was one of these bad boys.
Understood. The coating on motor wires is a type of enamel, correct?
How would I go about doing this once I have the motors open? What type of coating are we talking here? Would conformal coating stand the heat and current?
At this point Im considering new motors. These ones have been the cause of too many headaches.
No. I have not reached out to him about this yet. I’m still trying to determine if these motors are toast yet or not. Seems like they are damaged, but to what extent is not yet clear.
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Typically you’d dissaseble motors, it will be likly very hard to tell if a short is present or not in the windings since the resistance between each phase already is very small. If you see a difference between the three then its a possible sign that there is a shorter connection.
As this is a pressure dmg, you should see clearly where they pressed down on the copper so its quite a easy repair. If one of the strands broke of however. You’ll need to rewind the entire motor to get it to get the same performance as new.
If you google on motor or wire coating I’m sure you’ll find something applicable. But as you said, aslong as it can handle the temp, anything should sufficie. 150 Celsius and above I believe is a good number as thats the what the glue has that I use for motor magnets f.e.
If you as consequence ended up ruining strand in the motor and it needs to be rewound. I bet Timo would be happy to reimburse you as the cost in this case really shouldn’t fall on you(in my humble opinion)
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Thanks for the advice! Ill pull them apart and see what I can see.
The bolts were only 1 or two threads too long, so hopefully nothing pressed in hard enough to break a winding. We’ll see. Ill also run some more tests to see if that dead-stop behavior during detection was from something else.
I agree, considering I used only the hardware included with the kit to mount the motors. I’m honestly pretty annoyed that those two bolts caused weeks of headaches.
I feel your pain, but at the same time, this is diy and please correct me if I’m wrong, the motors came not-from-timo. I think ultimately the onus is on the builder to sanity check every single tiny little thing.
I check these screw lengths on every build, as had head about winding damage somewhere. And out of caution I used my own short bolts with avio kits.
Seriously sucks though, better no screws than slightly too long…
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Bought these motors from Timo, the open can 6374’s listed in the first post.
I will definitely be doing this from now on. What is your method for checking this? Especially on motors without an open can that you can peak through to see the bolts coming out on the inside?
Fair point. Though I would say that when paying a premium for a full kit that is designed to be assembled out of the box, I think its fair not to assume that I would have to grind down motor bolts. It seems to me that either:
A.) The motors that I got just so happen to have a stator that lines up with the mounting holes on the motor mount due to bad luck, while the ones that were tested with this kit did not.
Or,
B.) The gear drive kit and the motors that Timo offers were not properly tested as a set before being offered for sale that way (I think this is unlikely, otherwise we would probably be hearing of more people who bought the drives+motors having an issue like this. I also dont think that quality vendors like Avio and Timo would overlook testing this combo before offering it).
Whether its simple bad luck or something else, I’m just glad I figured out the problem so that I am finally able to get this board on the road. I flashed FW4.2 this afternoon and the motor detection wizard worked without issue, so I went for a ride. I didnt get any of the FW-induced speed wobbles, so that appears to be fixed as well.
Hopefully this is a non-issue going forwards because I really dont want to burden Timo or Avio for a warranty claim on an issue that isnt really anyone’s fault. I brought this up mainly as a warning to anyone who bought this kit with these motors to watch out for, and as a potential solution to anyone who was as confused as I was about why my build was not working.
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I would still like to find the reason as to why you had this problem though. We have since sold tons of motors with this kit and have had no issues thus far (excluding yours).
If possible, and only if you willing to do it, could you help to check the length of the m4 screw provided? It may just be that Timo supplied the wrong m4 screws.
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Absolutely! I meant to measure the length of the ones I ground down when I had them out, but in my haste to test my hypothesis I totally forgot. Tomorrow Ill measure one that I did not have to grind, and one that I did grind down (probably further than I needed to).
Its worth noting, one of the screws stopped shorting when I backed it out about 1 full turn, so it was only 1 thread too long, or probably around 1mm. The other screw stopped shorting after only half a turn, so it was even less. Additionally, I am using the motor sealing plates that were included. Without that extra 1mm it seems likely that the windings on the motors would have been more seriously damaged.
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