| Ifasun 800w kit | Waterproofing etc

Last season I got my hands on this cheap Chinese kit. . Here’s the short story of how I got here, what I had to do to make it somewhat reliable and waterproof. Hopefully I can also get some input on how to improve it both visually and technically.

So quick recap. Past season friend of mine bought used board with kit on the right. Only thing I knew about it that it was 2 yrs old, and previous guy had replaced the esc with some ebay one. Tried the board a bit, and fell in love in the hobby. I was on a budget, so I ordered, what I believed, was the same kit for about 450eur with taxes and shipping, since the kit friend had was decent thought I would do few upgrades like bearings and would be good to go for this season. Oh man how wrong I was. You can read more in topic above.

What I got was this. The moment I opened the box, the whole room filled with smell of some industrial solvents. I am still not sure if someone tried to poison me, or this was an accident on manufacturers part. :grin: I quickly found out that over the years they had made kit a lot cheaper, removed ~3mm of metal from both axles, and remade belt housing. (For comparison, see topic I mentioned) In summary, the specs

Max speed ~ 42km’h
Pulleys: 52t drive, 14t motor, 15mm 3m belt.
Motor specs unknown, I believe older one is about 190/200kv, new one is is 220kv, due to top speed being 5 aprox 5km/h faster on old version.
Wheels: 89x54mm, 82A duro tested
Battery: 10s 157wh 4.3Ah samsung (10s 2p). Honestly I don’t know, gives me 14km total distance on conservative driving.
Esc: their own homebrew 1 layer esc with bluetooth and wifi (has app aswell).
In nutshell, this is really weird boosted clone.

Since at the time of purchase I was piss poor student I had no deck. Friend of my had 2 decks. One was cut down downhill deck, other was deck that he rode car on top and snapped one side. First one I tried was shortie with right bolt holes so I made this:

Say hello to gopnik board No 1 (those 3 stripes came with the board :sweat_smile:, and I mounted trucks incorrectly).
As you may expect, it became to short almost instantly. It didn’t helped that original esc was deathtrap. It became boiling hot in first 2km’s, remote had 1 second lag between registering any input. The only thing that worked was the app. Luckily I was prepared for this and based on one youtubers suggestion, installed lingyi esc.

However it was not as easy as I was being told. I had to cut some plastic out and install shims covered with thermal paste between cooling plate and lingyi. Ended up just barely squeezing it in. All of the struggle was worth it. Board was responsive, no lag, 14km’s of range regen breaking etc. My fun was cut short. Couple of days later, on my way home, classical Latvian rain stepped by and almost ruined the board. So I started waterproofing. The image you see above is after one month of driving with my waterproofed version of case. After reading horror stories of rubber gaskets failing and water getting in I did what every young gentelman would “If you’re sealing something it’s worth overdoing it”:
I even drenched the bolts in silicone, as well as made sure no water goes through the USB port. So far it worked wonders. I have opened case twice, each time I had to reapply silicone. But so far there are no leaks. I covered board with 3 coats of ‘‘kontakt chemie 71 uethan’’ coating. While I was at it I also changed deck to the 2nd one with snapped of edge. Meet the Esk8-1 or codename E1:

This is her status after +300km’s and daily abuse. If this is shitty DIY worthy, feel free to post it it there. :crazy_face:

So before this gets too long ill end the topic here, there’s more stuff that broke, anomalies I solved so Ill keep this updated. I am honestly interested in your folks opinion on this. Something bothers me about the looks of it on the tail side, and I still haven’t figured out how to fix it.


Can’t wait to try this board out IRL, looks so ridiculous :laughing:


A little update. While I am waiting for small parts to come for my proper daily driver

I decided to upgrade E1 a bit more. Managed to snatch a fine looking deck with trucks for 40eur. It had a bad wheel byte but everything else was good.

In couple of hours it turned it into this:

While the board didn’t got much comfier due to same length wheel base and solid deck, it was still a quality of life improvement, I can finally experiment with deck width length etc. Also it’s not looking like something that came out of scrapyard, in fact It is starting to get visually appealing. If it wasn’t for those damn HDTM3 belts without idler I would continue upgrading motors. Anyhow, my first opportunity came in the rainiest day and I couldn’t miss it.

Time to come up with some nice looking mud guards. First attempt will be with 3D printed ones that mount at the end of the shaft. Will post results.

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Well she is dead, bms is toast, doesn’t want to charge and cuts power on fast acceleration. Kind of tired of this build and spending more money in this sounds like a real waste, if it wasn’t the bms it wouldve been battery/motors/ anything else. It lasted for good +400km’s though and lessons where learned.

You where good soon, real good, maybe even the best.

P.S Never buy such peace of shit 300$ boards. And if any of your friends want to buy it, show them this tread. Ill update main post with more stuff that got changed or just doesn’t work.


Hey man can you tell me how to open this thing im having a hard time getting inside

Which part?
For the case, you can remove top half by unscrewing 9 screws arround the case (I believe screws had neoprene gasket on top or bottom, as well as it had hot glue in the middle, be gentle and make sure you unscrew all the screws. I broke my case by forgetting 1 screw)
For ESC there are 4 hex screws on the bottom. Takes a little bit of tinkering but can get open.
For motors. They are bloddy PITA. Long story short, pulley is held with one hex screws (on the darker part) and is glued in with loctite, you have to mount it somwhere (I used wice grips with thin attachment that gets between pulley and motor) then used hammer with m6/m7 screw and hit the shaft in middle. Couple of sharp hits and it should be loose, then slowly hit it more till you dissasemble motor. Then remove the circlip and 3 washers. Clean the shaft from all the loctite (this is very important as shaft has to go through bearing and it’s a tight fit) then look up one of the methods on youtube that fits your needs. I use method that fits my vice, your experience may be different.

Good luck and let me know if you have any other problems or questions.

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I ordered this board and immediately had issues charging this board they sent a battery replacement but it still won’t charge.

Do you know of any fixes? What is your power supply output rating? Why does the charger port connect to the esc and not directly to tue battery?

Sorry for late reply. It’s a 10s charger @ 42v output. Maybe the pack is dis balanced, try keeping it on charge for multiple days. Even if light is green it should still balance. Also check charger cables. Input 220VAC cable snapped in half in only couple of days for me.

I don’t remember exactly why, as I tossed the original ESC in the trash almost immediately. Original ESC had +1s input lag (very dangerous) and it produced lot of heat from traveling only 4 km’s. In your place I would change the esc to 2 vesc 4.12’s, friend of mine did it and it runs really good. I managed to squeeze lingyi in it but it wasn’t that good of a choice as it was hard to fit cooling plate without cutting plastic case.