Ifasun 10s 800w esk8 kit mistery.

Hellow everyone!
Since there was limited information about this kit on the internet I wanted to share my experience with this kit, and maybe someone can add some information.

If you look on alibaba you can buy this ‘‘Ifasun dual belt 800w’’ kit for only 300$ (380$ including shipping). Friend of mine got it 2 years ago from another chap. Seeing that this kit does the job I bought one for myself aswell. Now here comes the mistery. Why are the kits different? Is there an older version of this kit or different manufacturer that has copied original design?


From outside main difference is completely different belt cover design (newer one has two peace cover, old one uses single). There seems to be thicker main shaft of old trucks. However newer one has improved motor mount mounting with welded flange. Wheels are thinner as well on newer kit by 4mm.

Maybe somebody knows more about this manufacturer?

The default setup of this kit is a deathtrap. Original ESC has 1 second delay in response for both acceleration and breaking, both motors and controller overheated a lot and drained battery really fast (barely could ride 6km on full charge). Replaced esc with diyeboard foc esc (was a bit tricky to fit in), and improved things drastically with 17km range on normal ride routine (aggressive ride would give 14ish km’s). Ride comfort improved drastically with it as well. So far have rode 200km’s with kit. Original wheel bearings failed after 170km’s ( they however had really bad rattling after only 30km’s). And I had to replace main motor bearings. If anyone’s interested I can add info about that as well. In side of good things, rubber bushings had silicon on them, and screws had loctite, motor mounts are pretty solid aswell. So far I have mixed feelings about this kit, looks neat but takes lot of work to get it to run reliably.

Regarding friends kit, his has lasted lot longer without any issues (also has better esc), however it is unknown what things have been changed or modded on his by the chap who originally bought it, ill share info once he upgrades his to dual vesc setup.

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Isnt that the same truck that goes snapcity if you look at it too long?

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And it will be unreliable as long as vital parts aren’t swapped. The general consensus on here is going to be that it’s not worth the hassle. By the time you replace everything that needs replacing you’re pretty close to a decent diy build anyway. That said …

As far as why things are different, well probably just because the manufacturer sourced cheaper parts elsewhere over time.
Nice job on swapping the esc. Those numbers you mentioned are insanity! Any idea what kind of battery is in there. Careful with no name boards using cheap bats that will endanger you and yours. Sounds like you’ve had good luck so far but I would look at the cells of you can get in there.

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I’m a bit out of the loop, but are there trucks thin enough to snap on hardest impact? So far where I live I have quite shitty roads and no bends or anything.
Did a quick mesurment on thinnest part.


Old trucks front: 21mm New trucks front: 17mm
Old trucks back: 23mm New trucks back: 19mm

So 4mm loss on new design, have nothing to compare this to saddly to know if it is good or bad.


Here is original setup, board had connection issues, and there was odd glitch where every time you turn remote it chose to move in random direction.

Thiss odd solder job here didn’t helped…

They advertise it as samsung battery, though I have some doubts…
Still haven’t done discharge measurement however. Again I have nothing much to compare this to but I can get 17km’s of range on full charge. Battery barely gets warm even on most aggresive rides with new ESC.

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Can’t remember where that picture is but if my memory isn’t wrong @b264 posted it somewhere?

The truck on the right side of the picture actually looks little bent :face_with_monocle:

If they say samsung its probably samsung, every manufacturer has low tier cells tho so doubt its samsungs top of the line stuff. (5500mAh, maybe 10s3P of a 1800 mAh cell?.)

This one?

@skunk also has one, I think

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Good example but not the one I had in my head, it had very similiar motor mounts to the one in the first post.

yep

So saying it’s Samsung means almost exactly nothing at all

Oh, I think that’s this one

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thats the one :joy: :male_detective:

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Jesus, that looks nasty. Those trucks look oddly similar to those sold here http://www.diyeboard.com/dual-belt-drive-3400w1700w2-180kv-n5065-motor-power-truck-kit-p-725.html

Actually that’s how it came originally in the kit, it’s odd molding that has been done.

In regards to mounting point this is construction of motor mount, looks pretty sturdy to me:

The worst part about this kit is the design, it looks like design copied from boosted board V1 (3M belt, full belt enclosure), however everything is made in a little bit different sizes. Driver pulley is 16teeth, Wheel pulley is 52 teeth (boosted and pretty much any other standart is 48) Even the belts are this weird standard, only thing I can get in europe from gates is 225mm belt:


There is also pretty much no room for tensioning belts, about 2mm if you are lucky. Wheel core is hybrid between ABEC and ABEC clone cores (somwhere in middle), luckly I have 3d printer available so Ill soon change pulley to kegel core one.

Overall my impression is that kit looks slick and well thought out, but everything lacks polish in both design and assembly. In future i doubt ill add VESC’s or anything, the ESC I have now gives 37km/h max and 8-25kmh time of about 2-3seconds which is totally fine. Time for new build.

I can add some more info if people are interested. Still have friends kit available, will take pictures of assembly once I get chance.

diyeboard is a known scammer, do not buy from them

I would recommend not buying anything that’s HTD3M. nothing at all.

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As promised, here is continuation on the thread.
Some pics of the older version of board:

Old design is way simpler, doesn’t even allow any belt tensioning. I swapped my upgraded controller. Turned out old motors themselves have bit higher KV (37km/h on new board vs 41km/h on old motors seen in picture). Motor construction is a lot reliable as well and barely any rattle present in motors. Just recently one of the motors developed some odd noise, will have to look into that.

Regarding my setup, it’s still going, belts are skipping when breaking and there is no way to tension them, so I’m kinda stuck with driving them into the dirt until I get replacements, but 300km’s per set is OK I guess… :man_shrugging:t2:

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Hey Man, so i got a skateboard recently for the spring and it’s the same kit as yours from ifasun, one problem I’m having is that it’s not charging, like when I put it in the charger the light turns red for few seconds and then it turn green and stops charging, i tried riding it a little and pushing it with my leg and it charged and worked fine until the battery died again, I contacted the manufacturer on Alibaba and they told me to check the charging fuse but when I opened it I couldn’t find any fuse, any help ?
Ps: i tried attaching some photos but the website didn’t let me so if you need to see I’ll upload elsewhere

Not being able to upload photos or use links yet is an anti-spam measure. If you look around and read on the forum for a while, you will level up and have access.

It’s very likely the battery is toast in that, and unusable.

This is the photo, i don’t think the battery is fried when I last charged it by pushing it downhill it was running well, I was thinking maybe the temperature sensor because when unplug it and plug it again it charges for few seconds then it turns green again, and for the fuse in still not sure because I can’t see anything that looks like a fuse, i want to test bypass the esc and plug the charger directly to the charger, is that a good idea or it’s dangerous?
Thank you

Oh wow, these have changed since I had them, there used to be this huge black cylindrical 100A fuse that would burn out and melt between battery pack and ESC. I guess they where reffering to that. I would check if charging port and it’s connections haven’t gone bad (metal contacts love to corrode over time). Other thing is leaving it for charging under supervision. These china packs, they only balance paralel groups if they battery is 100% full, so if you disconnect it too soon it will shut itself off until sufficient balance is achieved.
Overall thought everything about this thing is honestly, shit, controller was complete garbage as mentioned before, and BMS of battery would go bad if you would abuse it too much. I suggest starting collecting money for a decen’t prebuild or used DIY build. After many years I almost regret buying it and those 400$ I spent I couldve used as half the price for decen’t meepo.