…or when the pack doesn’t charge to the full voltage anymore
so I think I am going to stick with the daly
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what about 30x .15mm?
I asked on the battery builder club and no one answered
so my issue is how do I calculate the effective width of the nickel.
I’m assuming that it is 70mm because I am running nickel across the width of the battery which is about 70mm. that would give me 100amp
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or the whole thread
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Draw a diagram.
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Yeah that’s probably easily 100A continuous, making a lot of assumptions. Yes. Maybe even a tad more.
Assuming the 70mm dimension is horizontal in the pic and it’s 150μm thick and welded and soldered correctly.
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If there is any info you need I more than happy to give it to you, I just want to make sure I am making a good battery. I might plan on upgrading my board down the line to a double motor setup, so I want to have that battery power.
I can either go with .2mm nickel or .15mm
My only concern is that I am not getting good enough welds with the .2mm
what do you think of my welds
If you need more pictures let me know.
P.S these where from my old design when I was using 10x.2mm. I am not sure what to do with the 4 P-groups that I already spot welded, should I take it off or just put more nickel on top?
Also again thank you so much to everyone helping me.
Before you do that, try welding nickel to a razor blade. Then adding more nickel on top. That way you’re practicing on something besides your battery.
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You might end up having overheating issues with the fsesc mini. I tried running a single motor setup like this and it overheated in like 5 mins. I ended up going to the fsesc 6.6 single.
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I agree, but if you keep battery current at 25A or less you will have much better results. 20A even better.
Motor current should still be high.
do you think with a large external heat sink, I might be able to go a little higher.
Also should I go with 2 lines of 12awg or 3 lines of 14awg for my series connections?
ABSOLUTELY
There will be a limit though, depending on how well the heat is being conducted away from the FETs but yes, that will absolutely help.
I don’t know enough about your build to offer a recommendation, but I can tell you I always target the green or between the green and yellow when I build.
Two 12AWG is good for 85A continuous and 175A peak
Three 14AWG is good for 100A continuous and 200A peak
The 14AWG is also easier to work with and takes up less space.
this is what I plan on using Amazon.com and this https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B089QHCR4J/ref=ox_sc_act_title_4?smid=A3NG8YG8JA3ZUJ&psc=1
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