Retrofitted to an old HS11 from us:
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@NullBlox made some cable routing thingy things for the Bro deck.
They might fit as well two wires.
I don’t have a link to his website thou…
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https://www.nubx3d.com/collections/frontpage/products/concave-wire-loom
Interesting but nowhere near space for 3 phase wires
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We just use foam and then grip over the top, I think this is a good way to do it, the foam hides the copper braid
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For jumping, centered weight would be more desirable imo. Any weight in front or back would be leveraged weight. For cruising, doesn’t really matter.
How much does your enclosures weight?
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471g Sir
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This is working great for me so far. 1/8th" closed cell neoprene, spray glued to the deck, cut channels in it for the wires, vicious grip tape over that. Works a treat.
edit: Basically what @Lee_Wright said haha
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How can you outperform hall sensors if you need hall sensors to use A.S.S?
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We cut the hall sensor wires and only have temp sensors. Our new motors do not feature hall sensors any longer.
Oh, I’ve been reading something else. I guess they were wrong. Can we cut the temp sensors too?
nope
A.S.S wont work without a temperature sensor? Those are known to throw random values and fail just as much as hall sensors. May I ask why they are needed? They’re the first thing I get rid of when installing a motor
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Late to the party but i have seen one guy having issues fitting p42A’s. They’re just that 0.3mm larger than the advertised size (and any other cell in the 21700 bracket really). In the end he just sanded the holes and they fit with no drama. Probably a 1h job if you don’t know what you’re doing, or 20 minutes with a dremel and round sandpaper rolls
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I totally agree that it’s always good to have the main mass centered. That’s what I meant to say before already.
Just with a 4WD that doesn’t make any difference as the weight transition is the same front as back if escs are mounted center or outwards.
It also very much depends on the boards overall weight.
I do not agree that riding a 3.8kg deck with a 6kg battery but center mounted esc is easier to jump and handle as a 2.5kg deck with 1.8kg battery but tail mounted esc.
I was riding and jumping all kinds of setups and for me personally it does matter really so much having that 500g more in the back. I save that weight bei not using unnecessary big mounts or motor cages and other stuff.
I also prefer to have more room for my feet in the center of the deck instead of a unnecessarily long battery box and last but not least, I prefer to be able to just pop off my battery box as soon a i finished the ride and store it in a save place.
As usually that’s all personal preference and everybody need to find what fits best for him or her.
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I used my board for about 2 days after some rain with one of the sensors showing -99° and increasing when accelerating (???). Then overnight it finally dried up and works like nothing ever happened. Temperature sensors are weird
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You know whats not weird? Grabbing your motor for 5 seconds. If it hurts too much, take a break from riding or switch to a lower setting.
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As far as I understood the temperature measurement is used in the ass algorithm to calculate the parameters right. Different motor temperature means different resistance and what not ever values are required to get the motor position accurately pointed out.
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I like to judge my motors temperature by the smell of burning electronics. They are ripe when you can smell molten plastic while standing upright. White smoke time for break, black smoke overcooked
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Hear me out, what if I use copper braid as phase wires routed into the deck and then epoxy to close the canals
Edit. If someone doesn’t tell me why this is a bad idea, I will seriously consider this. Even better this can be done at the bottom side of the deck. This way the build would be super clean.
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