Hummie hubs Kickstarter

This is sick

Was this 4wd on a hummie deck ?

would it be any good? with a larger wheel size it would severely suffer from lack of gear ratio.

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I can’t say, maybe @hummieee would know better?

For me 4 wheel drive was overkill and if I pulled the throttle too much the board would just lift like 2mm and burn out.

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sounds perfect :smiling_face_with_three_hearts:

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@hummieee And what do you think about that? :

If u want to try… but they weren’t designed for it. You could mount a wheel on the outside where the plate bolts on as you say.

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@DavidC Direct drive pneumatics have been tried before, and the results are generally not amazing. Low torque, overheating motors.

Motors for hummie hubs/ revel kit/ loaded/ mellow drive/ all require low kv motors, because they are 1:1 gear ratios (no gear reduction is possible).

Low kv motors have more winds of thinner wire (compared to a higher kv of the same size motor) so they generally have higher resistance, which requires using low amps with them.

In my experience on thane hub motors and direct drive motors, the ride is fun, but the torque is quite shit. I can only imagine how bad the torque would be if you tried to use a larger wheel.

That’s why most people building esk8’s uses a gear reduction these days.

All that said, some people do pneumatic builds on direct drive with 4wd and find it good enough. It all depends how much torque you want. If you want a lot of power at the wheels, don’t do direct drive.

It really depends what you’re goal is. If you want to charge up the steepest hill you can find at 30mph, gear reduction is 100% the way. If you want a silent cruiser for roaming around the beach paths at 15mph, you’ll probably be quite happy with direct drive (on thane at least).

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You’re right.

Yet Hummie Hubs are given to 75-80A by Vesc Tool FOC detection. :sunglasses:

Edited july the 2nd : I was wrong it’s 40A not 75-80…

I’ve never felt a need for more torque and torque is good for me with just two hubs. I don’t know the math to show exact ft/lbs but could easily be figured. The downside is CONTINUOUS power or torque is limited as it doesn’t shed heat as well.

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In these parts we like to use Nm for torque. Makes more sense to more people and it’s what the esk8 force calculator uses.

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ft/lbs is just code for 1.3558 N•m just translate in your head. :stuck_out_tongue:

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Or maybe they can just translate in their head. The world is metric.

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Yeah I was really just addressing the hypo that was posed about 1:1 gearing for pneumatic tires, usually 160-200mm tires. For 83mm thane I have no doubt that 1:1 is fine for torque in most scenarios that people would want to run small thane wheels in.

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Slight correction - the esk8 force calculator’s main readout is Force, not torque. Force is measured in Newtons, not Nm.

Colloquially we say torque all the time, when we are really talking about force. The calculator is specific and uses the correct units though.

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Isn’t that just semantics? Torque is force times distance, which is how it’s practically being applied.

Work is force over distance.

Corrected, my bad

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No it’s not just semantics. If you play with the calculator, you can see why.

If you increase wheel size on a build, the torque does not change, however the force produced by the wheel does change.

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