Hoyt Puck 2 Setup → Motors Went Full Throttle After Wizard?!

Hey all — I ran into something really scary, hoping someone here has seen this before.

I’m setting up a new Killshot deck using the guts from my old Enertion Raptor. Same motors, same ESC, same trucks, same everything. Specs in case it helps:

  • 12s3p EVE40PL (tabless) pack w/ Smart BMS

  • Dual Enertion FOCBOX

  • Flipsky 6374 motors

  • Hoyt Puck 2 remote

  • VESC Tool wizard for setup

Last night I was going through the process of pairing and calibrating the Hoyt Puck 2. Remote connected fine, detection worked, input mapping looked perfect… until the wizard finished.

The second the wizard completed, the motors went full blast.
Like… instantly full throttle, no trigger input, nothing. My whole setup wasn’t mounted yet — trucks on my desk, enclosure and battery off the deck — and the thing launched itself off the table. Trucks were flopping around on the floor, battery/enclosure went flying… total chaos.

This morning re-detected motors, made sure to reset to default, starting totally from scratch… same exact thing happens as soon as the setup wizard completes.

This is the same hardware I was riding on the Raptor with zero issues, so I’m stumped.

Has anyone seen a Hoyt Puck or FOCBOX do this?

Any settings I should double-check before I ditch this remote?

Open to any ideas — this one freaked me out a little.

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Holy crap…

I just tried it again. As soon as the wizard finished and the motors spun up, I turned the remote off — and the thing kept going full throttle. Remote OFF, motors still blasting (only noticed one going this time).

Does it go all psycho without a remote wizard? Like when it has no remote or receiver installed?

Edit also what fw, hw, vesc tool version?

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No, that’s the weird part!

I turn the Puck on first — red lights flash, totally normal. Then I turn the board on, and the remote pairs immediately like it should.

Throttle input does nothing at this point. Everything seems normal…

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And running ppm not uart?

Yes, I selected PPM remote in the wizard. Noticed this ESC is on older firmware (5.03). I’m going to update it and try again.

Even if the update fixes it… I am not sure if I want to trust this ESC again.

Firmware update didn’t change anything. It looks like only one of the motors spins up… that doesn’t really feel like a software issue to me.

When I map out the throttle max and min, I can see the lever snap back to center just fine. That should mean the remote isn’t the problem, right?

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Does the puck v2 have uart also? Do you have a second remote of any kind to try? Honestly kinda stumped here. Export your vesc settings and post them so smarter folks can have a look. Snap some pics of the connections at the vesc.

I am SO sketched out by this…

I just connected a UART remote, didn’t run the wizard, just made sure the settings were correct — and it works without any issue…

Dude, what the hell is going on?!?!?

After pairing the UART remote, I wanted to check back with the puck.

While running the wizard, I usually select the “Current No Reverse” option.

This time, I ran the wizard and selected “Current No Reverse With Brake” and the damn thing connected perfectly!

After it worked, I went back to “Current No Reverse” with the wizard and it went right back to freaking out. Does anyone have any idea why this would be? I chose this same option with the UART remote without an issue.

After I pair the remote with the wizard, selecting the “Current No Reverse With Brake”, it seems fully functional.

If I change that Control Type to “Current No Reverse” manually in the App settings, the same thing happens. One motor spins up to 100% instantly…

I was going to say this sounds like a Control type thing, as I believe I’ve had the same thing happen before. I can’t really give more info than that as it was a while back and I can’t remember what control type I had chosen when it went full beans, but it may have also been Current no reverse.

Mind if I ask what you ended up doing? Did you risk it and ride with the other control type? Did you ditch the ESC or the remote?

Also, do you know if the “Current No Reverse” control type is supposed to work with a PPM remote like the Puck 2?

I changed it to a control type that worked (can’t remember if I used full current, current with hyst reverse, etc) but I didn’t scrap the controller. Not sure what fw version I was on at the time.. might have been 5.03

Not sure about that control type and the Puck 2 specifically but I’m not sure why it would have issues. Do you have any other ppm remotes to try?

Good to know you didn’t scrap anything. I’m trying to figure out whether I should even be using this ESC anymore.

When I use Mode 1 — Current No Reverse, the motor on the secondary CAN bus spins up to full throttle immediately.

When I switch to Mode 2 — Current No Reverse With Brake, everything works perfectly.

From my understanding, Current No Reverse should work normally, which makes me think this behavior is a bug or glitch. I’m just not sure if this ESC is something I should trust anymore — especially with that Maker X sale you posted about.

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I always do Current No Reverse with Brakes or Current Smart Reverse, so far never had any issues.

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How do you brake in this control mode?

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This old thread about current no reverse sounds like a similar situation, might have some relevance

To spoil the end post, in that case it was how Current No Reverse works causing throttle to default on, since it seems the middle position of a bidirectonal thumbwheel is half throttle in that mode.

Seems like a mode that wouldn’t be super useful for eskate if I’m understanding correctly - since it’s completely unipolar you’d need a separate brake mechanism of some kind even if you don’t want reverse.

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Yeah that’s basically what I was getting at with my question, but didn’t have the specific info to back it up lol. Thanks for clearing that up.

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I was about 85% sure I tested both “Current No Reverse” and “Current No Reverse With Brake,” and braking seemed to work normally with either one. The “with Brake” option just felt a little less sensitive overall.

However, when I compared the settings on my girlfriend’s FOCBOX tonight, I noticed there are different Control Type options depending on whether UART vs PPM is selected. That’s probably where some of my confusion came from — the options didn’t match even though both ESCs are the same model.

For anyone reading this later, here’s the confirmation: PPM mode is the cause. It’s not a bug.
Too bad I talked my girlfriend into an new ESC because of this… :sweat_smile::sweat_smile::sweat_smile:

Thanks, everyone!

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