They were made available on their site few days ago(last week?)
Assuming puck 1.0 parts as well
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Not seeing any receivers on there
Great spot to capture things , especially now since the devices are going to be moving to a different company. Documentation and knowledge of how to use these are going to be lost.
That being said , is there an open source remote ?
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Yes there are many, for example The Unfancy Remote | WIP DIY reliable remote - #570 by thunkar
Im sure if you message them directly they will be able to sell you a receiver
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Anyone have a schematic by chance?
Iâm having issues powering the remote when disconnected from power source. Works fine when connected to charger. Battery measures 4.15v.
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Gotta say⌠puck 2 has fuck all low battery warning⌠it went beep beep for about 1km before dying. The old puck I got closer to 5 out of. I usually carry a small battery and charge cable but got caught without it that night⌠as you do⌠I feel it has significantly less battery overall⌠maybe 5 rides for puck 1 and 3 for puck 2 between charging.
Lucky I still have four puck 1âs on the 
and still most loved
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You need DeePBeeF
Yeah I noticed that too about the puck 2 
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Yes I agree. On the beta units we got while I was still with Hoyt, we asked for a new (better) battery cell, on the assumption that the battery cell from the Puck1 would be 5 years out of date (since thatâs when the BOM for the puck1 was last updated). Turned out that ânewâ battery cell (blue shrink wrap) performed worse than the âoldâ puck1 cell (clear/white fiber tape wrap).
At the conclusion of the Puck2 beta testing program, I made a list of recommendations for Hoyt to ask the manufacturer for, before ordering a production batch. One of those recommendations was to return to using the puck1 battery cell. However, by then I had been laid off by Hoyt, so I wasnât involved and couldnât actually ensure those changes were made.
So 
Butttttttttt alsoâŚ
The general recommendation has always been âif you puck starts beeping, come to a safe stop IMMEDIATELYâ 
so you know
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The puck 1 battery says 1000mah on it.
itâs like twice the thickness of any other 1000mah battery you can find.
almost feels like iâts mislabled.
would actually be nice to know where to source that battery. :
Yeah. I tried running capacity tests on Puck1 and (beta) Puck2 battery cell, but I kept getting inconsistent results and I didnt try that hard to get to the bottom of it. We knew the Puck1 battery worked good so we just decided to go back to that.
Like I said though, I made the recommendation to return to the Puck1 battery, but I wasnât around to see if that recommendation was followed through on.
Can anyone who has a production Puck2 open it up and post a pic of their battery cell?
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Hang on a mo . . .
Here
Do you have a link to where I can buy Puck 1 batteries? I should just swap it out now since Iâve got the thing open 
Mboards has this one but you canât tell what it is.
I never (try to never) ride without first fully charging the Puck. I always want the remote to outlast the board. One less thing to worry about.
This looks like what we used. Mboards purchased all the old Hoyt stock so it would make sense to me that those are genuine.
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hmm that battery (from puck 2 right?)
looks like the same grepow puck 1 battery.
can you add a shot from the side?
if tiâs the same battery, that would suggest puck 2 uses more power?
yeah that looks the same as puck 1 to me. as far as I can tell from pics.
DeePBeeF was before itâs time
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While weâre on the subject and since I appear to have subject matter experts here, what is the variability of the PWM signals between Pucks?
What Iâm getting at is if I configure the ESC from one remote is my PWM range going to match all the other remotes? Or are they vastly different?
I ask because it seems like sometimes the board doesnât have as much power as other times, and one difference is which remote I happened to pick up.
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