How to update firmware on the Flipsky 75100 & 75200 FOC ESC

[b1996]

i do not recommend the V2’s, the old ones before all the phase filter jokes were okay, except the new 84100 and 84200HP are good

the problem is the “new” 75x00 ones only have a phase filter, without having actual phase sensors

phase filters should only be used on real phase sensing controllers, like the 84x00HP series, never on low side sensing designs

that also applies to the newer crap Flipsky put out, i would Not recommend shit that uses phase filters on low side sensing designs, at all.

get a real old alu pcb or the 84x00 hp (100 or 200) from Makerbase, or be prepared to have actual issues

[b1996]

these just have phase filters on a low side sensing design, ill advised at best, like who does that except flipsky and makerbase apparently

atleast the 84100hp and 200hp solve that lol (they have actual phase sensors and filters) and they detect phenomenally and run phenomenally, results i never got out of my (flipsky) 75100 alu pcbs or (makerbase original) 75200 alu pcbs

the 84200HP does have the same power on/off method, it is made in the same way as on the official VESC6, supposed to run with an NC contact

[barthchris]

After

[barthchris]

So would it be better just to run with phase filters disabled on the V2 version

[b1996]

pretty much

[barthchris]

This may or may not have been discussed here. If so I apologize.

I have a 75/100 pro V2. It came with FW6.02 75/300r2 installed which limits voltage to 72V max…

Because Im using a 20s 84V max battery I needed to use a no HW limits version FW. I upgraded to 6.05 75/300r2 NO HW limits.

I have to say that Im very impressed with this controller compared to previous versions made by FS. The motor commutates perfectly. Absolutly silent and powerful, The torque produced is so addictive. No desyncs, no cogging, no fault trips, Im getting 6800W peaks in a escooter hub motor. I love looking over data logs, Im seeing much more of that power is going into producing torque/speed than previous versions of both FW and HW. Basically its another way of saying the controller and FW give me the best efficiency yet.

Last week I stumbled upon a YouTube vid of a guy showing how to update the 75/100 pro V2 to FW 6.05. I wasn’t even going to watch it as I already upgraded and was happy but, I just had to read the video description. He had a link to FW 6.05 75/100 V2 not FW 6.05 75/300r2. Got me thinking maybe I screwed something up even thought I knew the stock fw was 75/300r2. After all, the designation of 75/100 V2 did make a lot more sense than 75/300R2… I just couldn’t help myself so I decided to give it a try.

I always start fresh after flashing FW, I reset everything to default then run the FOC wizard with exactly the same settings. After running the wizard I noticed the motor was noiser and things definitely were not as smooth/powerful as they were with the 75/300R2 FW… I would get many annoying timeout faults that I just couldn’t tune out. My data logs were showing less power. Quite honestly, not that long ago I would of found the performance awesome but after running with 75/300R2 for a short time I was spoiled by its performance. It was obvious that FW 6.05 75/100 V2 was not the correct version for the flipsky 75/100 pro V2. I reflashed back to 75/300R2, and repeated setup, this gave me my fix of the smooth/powerful performance that I crave.

Flipsky makes a 75/100 V2 and a 75/100 pro V2. I never had the Al heatsink 75/100V2 so I cant say for sure but it doesn’t take a stretch to assume that FW 6.05 75/100 V2 would be the correct FW for it.

The pro version has bluetooth integrated into the PCB but given the difference in performance there have to be other differences as well.
Could this be the filter/s b1996 mentioned above? I actually tried disabling filters as he alluded to but it didn’t seem to change performance. Im confused because Id think disabling filters would degrade performance back to what I was experiencing with my FW debacle explained above…

Basically for flipsky 75/100 pro V2 use FW 6.05 75/300R2… Even if it seems logical do not use 6.05 75/100 V2 on this specific controller. Even though that will work, it won’t be optimal… For me the difference to me is extremely palpable but remember I have a 10" hub motor. That said I cant see why those benefits won’t transfer to other motor types…
Im sort of a motor connoisseur lol, like an audiophile, very pick and striving for the best performance but never seem to get there no matter how much $$$$, gotta say if using the correct FW that unscratchable itch doesn’t bother me much. Withj new controllers and or FW updates Ive felt similar to this in the past but definitely not to this extent. With FW 6.05 75/300R2 It really does feel like my motor is tuned to perfection.

Jesus, just read after posting… Holy fuck! Long winded habits don’t die easily, it also sounds like Im a shill for FS, nope, just want to help others avoid problems.

[izy]

Its kinda like my mksesc 75100 which I would like some help with

its a white pcb but it also had the soldered fets

stock firmware reported 75100_old at 6.02
but now after firmware upgraded voltage reads wrong says 76v when batteries at 51v

would to solve this lol or get correct firmware

[izy]

update used 75100 v2 firmware and fixed voltage and current issues at least

[reelism]

Hey all, longtime lurker here, I’ve got a Makerbase 75100 v2 and updated without a hitch, and now up to 6.05 (thx @jaykup , would’ve had problems without this post! ).

The clincher has been it hasn’t been working with my 52v battery (no LED, nothing), but has been fine with the 36v battery. I have tried various voltages inc the 75v its supposedly rated for, 14s, etc, but no go (but 36v still works).

Any ideas?

FYI the makerbase 75100 v2 seems to have better soldering, copper and heatsink than I’ve seen googling re FlipSky (see below). I plan to add an external heatsink on side - bolted to internal heatsink, and also on top.

Various pics, in case they help (and what’s the copper wire leading to “NTC”)

[Dnollie]

Dang you’ve been here for almost 5 years and never posted

[reelism]

Yeah, I blame global warming for historical deluge killing my esk8 while riding through it in Sydney, and then hung out in some other ebike forums (I miss my esk8 )

[reelism]

On review I’m realising there’s nothing specific to FW in post/comments for my unit: MKSESC 75100 (case is identical to Flipsky 5100).

Also it’s unclear what exactly is:

• 75100V101 - no change needed

• my circuit looks like closer to 75100V202, tho it’s not exact (2 solid rails, no cutout on the heatsink, see pic above), it did come with 75_300_R2 (Makerbase guide specifies 75_300_R2 with no_limits) and *yet mine didn’t work with 52v - which may or may not be FW related.

I tried FW 75_100 as a test, and that may have bricked it ( for ST_link arriving tomorrow).

So, yeah: confusement.

[reelism]

Investigation shows: Flipsky 5100 / 75100v202 and MKSESC 75100 seem identical, apart from the rails - see overlay image (original imgs at top, and from me above).

Comparison of the images I’ve seen of the Makerbase 75100 it seems better quality, more heatsink/rails, better soldering (no notch taking out ~25% of it), yet if my experience is any indication def issues with FW &/or QC.

[warloo93]

Hello.
I am using makerbase 75100 vesc with 75100 v2 fw. I made better cooling for testing, tried to use silicone insulator under mosfets and also kapton tape. But at 10C outside temp still cant cool it down. Is this all the controller can do? Even at 100-120 phase amps reaching very high temps.
VESC testride

[LordZamasu]

That little box don’t have enough thermal mass and surface area to cool mosfets enough. You have to screw them to better heatsink or to your scooter frame if it’s aluminium

[warloo93]

It is out of the box. A screwed the mosfets directly to heatsink. I used kapton tape as insulator and also put thin film of thermal grease under mosfets. I have only this screenshot from video to demonstrate.

[LordZamasu]

Are mosfets soldered to aluminum substrate or not?

[warloo93]

Sorry, but i dont understand.

[LordZamasu]

Your heatsink is too thin and mosfets should be mountet on the middle of it

[warloo93]

The heatsink is big enougt i think. Its only warm after ride. is there better insulating material under mosfets with better thermal conductivity?