Thanks for posting pictures. It’s temperatures better with this Flipsky mod?
btw i just blew one of my 75100 alu pcbs (after 2 years of usage and running 150 phase amps while it was really struggling, i do recommend max 130 on these, that seems fine, i modified your firmware to support more phase current but the caps dont seem up to the job above 140 ish phase amps)
and i swapped one of my 75200 alu pcbs in instead
however that thing gives super inaccurate motor measurements (no opamp mod done, aint got the nerve for that)
but at ~40A it measures similar to the remaining 75100 alu pcb apart from ld-lq
but the inductance measurements are obscenely/excessively high, like actually impossible values when i use 80A, while on the 75100 the measurements remain about the same
any idea for an easy fix without delicate opamp surgery? (i am afraid to break a leg off for example 
)
the motors are pretty much the same physically and always measured similar on the 75100 alu pcbs
edit: i use the fsesc75200 alu pcb firmware on the older MKS 75200 alu pcbs (no on/off switch capability)
edit: fixed by the averaging firmware
Not really i still had to modify cooling
i would recommend anyone to just get an alu pcb version, it’s insanely much better.
them to-220s just arent up to the job, unless they would double them or use 247s with a way better heatsink design
I already bought 75200
This one is for budget xiaomi build controller will not see more than 40a battery current
the alu pcb versions are great, no heat issues in my case but i have the controllers thermal glued in my scooters’ deck
a 75100 Alu pcb and a 75200 alu pcb in my Obarter X3 (first had 2 75100 alu pcbs, no heat issues, but broke one after really pushing it and needed a replacement asap)
it has a 48V pack that can take up to about 90A continuous so i’m running a bit less total for safety, but motor current on the 75100 alu pcb 130A now (unlocked firmware) and 240 on the 75200 alu pcb on the rear wheel, which is less likely to spin out anyway
for the 75200 alu pcb you may want the Korjaa firmware, it couldnt detect properly on normal jaykup or vesc firmware and runs super smooth with that modded firmware
hi everyone👋 Maybe someone here can help me please.? I have a flipsky 75200 controller on my bike everything works fine for me except for one thing. when I move the bike backwards I can’t give gas to go forward, the gas handle doesn’t respond, it happens to me when I climb a hard mountain and stop for a moment, only if I stop completely I can give gas,and if I even go backwards a little bit the throttle stops responding. (the bike only has a mode of traveling forward im using foc hall sensor, with the version posted above)
Sry edited my post, it was about phase filters on the newer units, is there a noticeable difference with phase filters?
I’ve installed the makerbase 75200 v2 and while connecting the power button with a latching normally open switch noticed that when the switch is pressed in (on) meaning there is continuity, the vesc is off. Is this the normal operation of this feature? The vesc is off when the dc/A15 pin is grounded? Seems backwards.
Also this unit was supposedly ok with phase filters on, but failed foc detection twice until I tried with it off. So that seems sketchy too.
Iirc the error said that the vesc had disconnected
Any advice?
Hello all helpful people!
I wrote a while back about I bricked one of my 75100Alu when I tried to update the firmware. I never managed to get it to work again. I had another 75100Alu that I successfully updated, following the directions in this thread.
Now I want to buy a new one! So here is my question:
Have I understood correct, that if I buy 75100 V2.0, I still need to update FW to get max performance?
But if I buy 75100 V2.0 PRO, I do not need to update FW?
V2.0 has not solved this issue? Only introduced a powerbutton?
But on the PRO version it is solved somehow…?
In that case I might just go for PRO, as I really dont like my success-rate of updating FW (50% 
)
Thanks a lot for your advice! <3
Hello, do you know if there are any differences between the MKS and Flipsky 75100?
I am talking about the V2 without alu pcb. The one with bend caps.
Makerbase has worse cooling
thanks for posting, is it possible for you to make a 6.05 firmware for the new 75100v203
You can flash 75100v2 firmware on it no problem
I have it running on my setup currently and didn’t run into any problems
Added auto lock function to vesc.
This function is run from command line of terminal
This allows user to lock and unlock bike using cell phone.
It also has autolock function which if enabled The vesc will autolock after 5 minutes of no use.
The default password is Calibike
The terminal commands are
- ul [<enable/disable>]
example: “ul Calibike enable” enables the auto lock function
“ul Calibike” unlocks bike
- sp
example:
“sp Cali1234”
this will switch password to Cali1234
- lk
this locks the system
example
“lk”
The code is in password.c and password.h
but vesc tool now has issues with deserialization. any ideas
Hey guys, Long time no see.
I’m getting back into the game after taking a break due to nearly killing myself from a 65 mi an hour rental scooter, powered by a 20S 6P pack. Getting about 5,000 Watts peak, one or two minutes of 2500 to 3,000 watts. With some throttle management I’m able to have more fun than I could imagine but for whatever reason I got into this thing where I just needed to keep pushing it and pushing it and pushing it until one day I pushed too far. Luckily it’s a rear motor which locked up from a winding short. I just skidded to a stop from 60 to 65 miles an hour to zero. Probably about a 50 ft to 75 ft skid, I probably left a nice brown trail right behind it as well.
So I took a break in a self-preservation attempt. Lol.
Long story but I gave up for a while to preserve my life and hopefully break the addiction but it’s calling me back a little bit. I have a spare 75 100 V2 as well as a 75 200 V2.
I installed the 75100 V2 Just because of space constraints.
I see that there is a new firmware out. Last I used was FW 6.0 now it’s FW 6.05.
I really got to know FW 6.0 very well for my specific application I look forward to seeing what new tweaks are available and I’ll do my best to keep you guys informed.
By the way, I’ll post later but I stumbled upon some really useful information last year about tuning larger motors , specifically hub motors either for scooters or e-bikes. Using the foc wizard Will only get you in the ballpark. There are a few specific settings that need to be changed to really get the motor running good especially at low speed. You’ll experience no cogging , no desyncs, Just a really smooth running motor. It doesn’t matter if you’re using Hall sensors or sensorless You should be able to get the same results.
First tip is lower sensored ERPM to 50, lower sensorless RPM to 100 maybe 150. Remember the hub motors have a lot of back EMF and they’re much lower KV as well compared to the relatively smaller esk8 motors that The FOC wizard seems to be optimized for without going into the advanced settings.
I have several more settings which I can’t recall right off the top of my head right now but I’ll post them in here when I remember.
lower sensored erpm before running the foc wizard or after