I don’t have a 3d printer to be able to design and print a mold so I have to build up the epoxy over multiple pours. The first pour is already on in the photo but it is hard to see with it being almost crystal clear. Couldn’t get the damn air bubbles out from the area between the pins and the plastic without risking burning the plastic with my torch.
I am not adding any sort of loop on purpose, but will be adding enough of a little grip area to be able to pull it out. As is I can pull it out but with no good grip yet it is hard. The magnet is hopefully my small form solution to making it harder to loose when unplugged and not for attaching a loop if that makes things clearer. If I did want a loop then I just need to drill a hole in the epoxy that will extend past all the metal though, so, no, the magnet won’t be in the way.
Also I 100% fucked up the polarity on the magnets and now need to redo the magnet inside the remote case. I knew it could be an issue and yet did nothing to prevent it
It is called planning ahead. I know there is a good chance I’ll end up loosing the loopkey when out and in a store, so I’m designing it to prevent that by adding magnets to things I already have to carry with me. The remote, probably will add one to the inside of the enclosure somewhere, and I’ll add one to my key ring. Giving me at least 3 easy places to quickly attach it to for safe keeping. If it takes to long to secure it I know I won’t use the method most of the time hence the magnet.
That would take too long and I would just not do it most of the time. but also I keep my keys small and light as well and a clip would be too bulky. The small ones that do exist are too hard on my hands to open.
You just now realized that? There are a lot of things on my boards where I could have taken a faster method, but didn’t because I don’t like how it would look or I wanted some cool feature I thought of.
Hell, I have done the same thing on a few pair of pants that were too big for me. There was plenty of extra length in the legs and I could have just cut all the extra fabric off, but instead I figured out a way to make them into convertible cuffed pants using those magnets. It took way more time but it was worth it have that option. (the pants material required dry cleaning anyway so adding magnets isn’t an issue for washing them)
I would pay a lot for these in anti spark. The female side is better since there’s no risk of debris connecting it without anti spark. There is no hole in the middle like the male side. The cover is nice and acts as a gasket since I want it waterproof. You can make cheap male** loopkeys. They also just look the best.
Loopkey lids or covers seem really pointless. The only time the lid will be closed is when it’s not being used — which typically lines up exactly with the time you don’t need protection from water or dirt ingress. While you’re riding, the key itself keeps things out of the socket. It’s also during this time that dirt and moisture can dirty the lid itself, which then transfers the grime to the socket when you put it back on. Picture plugging that back together when it’s all muddy —after removing the key, leaving a clean socket, and then closing a muddy lid onto it.
I also recommend using the female XT90S for the key and the male XT90 for the socket, instead of using the male part (with prongs) for the key.
Ahh that makes sense with the cap thanks.
I won’t have mud but do have constant rain or road rivers so it is uniquely useful for me to leave it exposed to the weather for farm errands or leaving it on the half sheltered bike rack.
But why is male better, another thing is if the pins get worn and I snap one bending it back out it’s more work (happened before don’t underestimate my incompetence)
I have keys I’ve cycled thousands of times. Prongs wearing out hasn’t been a thing I’ve experienced or heard of. (Use genuine Amass brand connectors) It seems the most likely failure mode is for the resistor to fail, which is in the female side. It’s a lot easier to change a key than to repair the vehicle.
I transplanted one side of an anti spark XT90. The whole thing was tricky I had to drill out room for the resistor and resolder then heat and push it back in.
Also with a black male side it’s all black which matches nicer.
XT connectors seem to be incredibly rugged as it is.
The XT60 on my Onewheel are plugged in and out thousands of times and they only start to wear at the edges.
I wanna use the Unity without the switch & just use a loop key. I tried looking for the topic of it but can’t seem to find it. I know it’s like a loop key you make to short something
but also I keep my keys small and light as well and a clip would be too bulky. The small ones that do exist are too hard on my hands to open.
There are a lot of things on my boards where I could have taken a faster method, but didn’t because I don’t like how it would look or I wanted some cool feature I thought of.
& for those modify wire I leave it plugged in always on the unity correct ?